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hi my transmission went out 2 days ago and have a rebuilt one from a donor van and i want to know if anybody has taken their tranny out if anybody know how please reply thanks
 

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Just did mine last night

Get the front of the van up about 18 " off the ground to bott of where jack point is on rockers, when on car ramps it is close, but need another few inches. Transmission is 16" tall. I used 4 car ramps for mine and have 18" after using some cut logs I have to get the rest of the way up. I left the front tires sitting on the front ramps even though the logs supported the weight of the van, I just didn't want any thing to happen with the logs falling over. It took me about 7 hours to get the tranny out including getting the van up on ramps, and jacking it higher onto the logs. My freind who is a tech at honda ( lucky me) has done this 40+ times under warrenty so he gave lots of pointers on what and how. He came over for the last 2 hours of removal. I removed teh front car ramps after everthing that needed to be reefed on was loose and the ball joints and axles were ready to come out.

Tip # 1 pop out the drivers axle before removing subframe, just get a crow bar into there and pop it over to dissengage the circlip inside the tranny there is about 1/2 " play in the cv joints to allow this while the wheel is still attached. Passenger side will just slide out later as there is no circlip

Tip # 2 unplug the powersteering electrical conection, cause this has a tendancy to break from being pulled on

Tip # 3 tie up the power steering rack so it will not come down on the drivers side after subframe is removed. passenger side is ok to hang down, it is the driverside you do not want the hoses to pull out by the steering shaft.

Tip # 4 Use a short sledge hammer 1 - 2 pounder and a pry bar to remove ball joints from control arm. Friend said 2-3 hits is usually what it takes and ball joint pops out with pry bar. Just poped right out of there, I was surprised.

Tip #5 power steering nuts can all be axcesed from above with a 24" extension and a swivel with socket on end.

Tip#6 remove upper sway bar end links top joint, leave bottom attatched to sway bar

Use a hoist to lower tranny down, probably weighs close to 250 pounds and check all wires, hoses are undone while lowering it.

36mm socket to remove axle nuts

exhaust and 4 engine tranny mounts have to be undone from subframe

support engine by intake using proper made jig.

just pop off powersteering resovoir line clips from subframe

Just make sure everthing is diconected before lowering.

Subframe weighs maybe 90 -100 pounds
 

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Here is my engine support, all screwd together, took maybe 5 minutes to make, took longer finding scrap material.



Van up on supports

 

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rebuilding it myself, took it all apart last night.
Thanks for your write up. Looks like I may be tackling the same job soon.
My wife's 2004 Odyssey just started acting up. The check engine light came on last night (with no noticable problem), then this morning the tranny stopped pulling (her diagnosis). She limped into a parking lot and waited for me. I get there and it works fine. Drive to a friends shop and the check engine code is for a torque converter clutch solenoid. Reset the check light and drove gently on to work. I only noticed a shudder in 3rd gear under power. Now, the tranny slips and shudders shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The light is on again. The more I drive it the more 3rd gear is almost gone (it tries to free wheel) like it can't hold 3rd gear.

Has anybody had any luck replacing Torque Converter Clutch solenoids? Which one is it?

Looks like tonight's fishing trip may get postponed...........................
 

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Awesome!

My '02 Ody's tranny went out yesterday. My Ody only has 79,500 miles on it. It was noticeable on Monday and by Wed. I was praying to make it to the dealership shop. Well I'm glad somebody can do these things by themselves, congratulations! I am going to post a question separately about my options but saw your post and felt relief for YOU at least!
 

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My tranny is a 4 speed 1999 B7TA, it is different than the 5 speed in a many areas, but for you guys who are also rebuilding teh 4 speed , I used a large pipe wrench which happens to have the same teeth spacing as input spline spacing ( incase you don't have the factory tool to hold the input shaft) and then a 1 5/16 socket ( for those that don't have the metric equivalent) to get the nuts off of the shafts, dont forget that 2 nuts are left hand threads, the secondary shaft ( large gear), and the counter shaft ( one in the middle)
 

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to quote the Magic 8 Ball, "outlook not so good"

Now, the tranny slips and shudders shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The light is on again. The more I drive it the more 3rd gear is almost gone (it tries to free wheel) like it can't hold 3rd gear.
Has anybody had any luck replacing Torque Converter Clutch solenoids? Which one is it?
That happened to my 2002. Check engine light flashed. Code p0730 on a generic code reader. Slipped worse and worse in 3rd gear. Almost unable to drive. Had to get a rebuilt transmi$$ion.
Replacing the solenoids is not likely to work because the 3rd gear clutches are usually worn. This is the usual failure with the 5 speed AT. A bad transmission.
 

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That happened to my 2002. Check engine light flashed. Code p0730 on a generic code reader. Slipped worse and worse in 3rd gear. Almost unable to drive. Had to get a rebuilt transmi$$ion.
Replacing the solenoids is not likely to work because the 3rd gear clutches are usually worn. This is the usual failure with the 5 speed AT. A bad transmission.
You nailed it!
Mine's toast. I cleaned and checked all the solenoids. They were'nt clogged and they all worked fine. So, my next step will be to yank it out and tear it appart. :rollingeyes: Now I know what I'll be doing the next couple weekends.
 

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Note when removing the power steering lines that are attached to the subframe remove the bolt that attatches the tubes to the bracket and it is all easy as pie, not the bracket bolt attching it to the subframe on the drivers side. The bracket bolt can be accesed from the top to remove it and I removed it cause it looked simple and the extension and socket swivel were right there, but you will not get it back in from the top or the bottom, or with the help of a second person guiding it in, your hands can not get there to guide it in. So make sure to remove the bolt that holds the lines onto the bracket only. So my bracket is floating in the air right now, and the next time I have to remove the subframe I will then put this bolt back in holding down the bracket.
 
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