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Discussion Starter #1
After changing out the o-ring on the suction side and a fluid change I still have the leak. After several weeks watching, it turned out the leak is at the pressure hose, where the rubber join the metal fit. The part I need is 91370-SV4-000 and it looks simple enough but before I start doing the work, is there anything I need to watch for? I looked around on the net and didn't find anything for the Odyssey.

Thx
 

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You want a line wrench for where it attaches to the rack - getting it off is awkward, so I cheated when I did mine, and used a pipe/tube cutter to cut the hard line just above the nut on to the rack so that I could use a socket to back it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you both for the info and I also watched the video for the Accord. My Ody isn't as old as the Accord so I hope it'll come out uneventful.
 

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This is moderately helpful. I may be tackling this job soon since Honda quoted me $545 to replace the pressure hose. The pump was replaced under warranty in 2012 but are saying that the hose is leaking now which is not covered.

My van is a 2009. It doesn't look like that parts has changed much. Looks like part # 53713-SHJ-A02.

Anyone else done this job? Any tips/tricks because that video makes it seem like a real PIA. I will definitely go OEM after watching that video.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I ended up taking it to the shop after removing every brackets, except the connecting nut. I didn't have the flair wrench, plus there was very little room to work from under the car. It looks very easy from above the engine area, on the driver side. I started from under the car and managed to put my whole hand in the area but didn't have enough wrist strength to turn it loose. I used standard open wrench and was afraid rounding off the nut. You can reach from above in the engine area if you have long arm or long tool. Easy way would have been cuting the aluminum hose and use socket wrench but I was too chicken to make that commitment knowing I wouldn't be able to drive to the shop if that still didn't work. I watched the guy worked on it from below. The lift must have helped and he must have had strong hand, lol...
 

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...Easy way would have been cuting the aluminum hose and use socket wrench...
After trying to turn the nut using a flare wrench, I threw in the towel and cut the tube with a tubing cutter (the line is very soft, so it's real easy to cut). A socket wrench made short work of the nut once the line was out of the way. I did everything relating to the rack from beneath the van.
 

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I just finished replacing the high-pressure hose. It took about 3 hours. Here is how I did it.

  1. First, I removed the plastic engine cover.
  2. Next, I drained the power steering fluid. I went to my local auto parts store for power steering fluid and a piece of hose. They have short pieces of scrap hose that I could take for no charge. I found a piece of 9/32" (7mm) windshield washer hose about 15" long. I removed the return (top) hose from the reservoir, plugged the fitting, and put the scrap hose inside the return hose. While I held the end of the hose in an empty 2 liter bottle, my wife started the engine and I had her turn the steering wheel lock to lock. This failed as she couldn't turn the wheel with the fluid drained. We would try again after lifting the front of the van.
  3. Before lifting the van, I set the parking brake. I used a floor jack to lift one side of the van using the jack point just behind the front wheel well. I put a jack stand under the frame about a foot in from the jack point. I then moved the floor jack, lifted the opposite side of the van, and installed a second jack stand. I lowered the floor jack just enough to put the weight on the jack stand.
  4. Once again, I held the end of the hose in the bottle while my wife started the engine. This time she was able to turn the steering wheel lock to lock and purge the system of fluid. After the engine was shut off, I remove the scrap hose and replaced the return hose on the reservoir.
  5. I removed the front wheels.
  6. From underneath, I used a 10mm socket wrench to remove the bolts holding the lower two support brackets.
  7. I unplugged the harness from the pressure switch.
  8. I tried using a 14mm crowfoot flare nut wrench to loosen the connecting nut, but it seemed to have too much "give", where the wrench moved a small amount in response to increased torque. I went quickly to plan B, using a small tubing cutter about 1" from the nut. It was a tight fit and I could only twist the cutter about 45°, but by twisting it back and forth and tightening the cutting wheel, I was able to cut one side of the tube. After removing the tubing cutter, I bent the tube back and forth until it broke completely off.
  9. From the top (using a foot stool), I removed the bolt for the upper bracket using the 10mm socket and then removed the two bolts holding the hose fitting to the pump
  10. With the hose now loose, I wiggled and jiggled it until it came out, working from the top of the engine.
  11. I removed the pressure switch from the old hose using two 17mm open-end wrenches. I then installed the pressure switch into the new hose.
  12. I moved the upper bracket from the old hose to the new one.
  13. I put some tape over the end of the flared tube to keep dirt out. The top fitting had a protective cover in place, so I didn't have to do anything to protect it.
  14. I started fishing the new hose down from on top of the engine. This is a two-person job. I crawled under the van and guided the tubing as my wife manipulated the hose from the top.
  15. Once in place, I removed the protective tape, positioned the flared tube, and started threading in the flare nut.
  16. Once the flare nut was finger tight, I installed the two lower support brackets and plugged the harness into the pressure switch.
  17. I used the 14mm crowfoot flare nut wrench to tighten the nut on the lower fitting. The crowfoot wrench uses a 3/8" extension and ratchet wrench which makes it fairly easy to get to from beneath the van.
  18. The work under the van complete, I next connected the upper bracket to the back of the engine.
  19. I removed the protective cover from the top fitting and rubbed some new power steering fluid on the o-ring.
  20. I carefully inserted the hose fitting into the power steering pump and installed the two bolts.
  21. A quick double-check that everything is in place, then I added some Honda formula power steering fluid to the reservoir. My wife started the engine and I watched the reservoir drain as the fluid was drawn into the power steering system. As it drained I had her turn off the engine. I refilled the reservoir and she started the engine again. This process was repeated until the reservoir stopped draining. Then I had her turn the steering wheel lock to lock with the engine running. The reservoir level dropped and more fluid was added. I think it took almost four 12 oz. bottles of fluid when all was done.
  22. I replaced the engine cover and wheels and then lowered the van. My wife took the van for a test drive while I cleaned up and put tools away.
This is what worked for me. I am not implying that this method is the best or only way to do this job.

I purchased a metric set of the crowfoot flare nut wrenches at my local Harbor Freight for about $12. I also picked up some 5 mil nitrile disposable gloves to use while doing this job. They kept my hands clean without affecting my manual dexterity.

Thanks to the other forum members from sharing their experience, giving me the confidence to do this repair. I hope others find this useful when considering doing this job themselves.
 

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knavekid, thanks for the detailed writeup. Much appreciated.

Dave
 

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2005 Odyssey, 155k miles . Power steering high pressure hose leaked.Bought honda replacement hose why? plug and play bushings in the right places. Tough part was loosening the flare nut by the rack. Used a crow foot flare nut wrench 14mm with a 3/8 rachet from left top of engine. used PB blaster and alot of elbow grease. Make sure to release electrical connector from the pressure sensor on the hose remove two bottom brackets and top rubber portion bracket, remove the two bolts attached to the powersteering pump. 10mm bolts. Took out old hose from top of engine, it was a liitle difficult. Transferred old pressure sensor to new hose,remember to buy new o -ring for the sensor. Tried to put in the new hose from top of ngine the way it came out! Oh what an ordeal,could not do it and hose almost got entangled in the rear engine tubes and pipes! Frustrated ,I tried from the bottom right of engine first in went the pipe to the rack and then wiggled
the rubber portion to the top to the pump in ten minutes no tangles! Reconnected hose ends and brackets . Whole job was about 7 hours!
Use oem hose , tough to loosen flare nut to rack and replace new hose from bottom right of engine.
 

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image.jpg

This was as tight as I was able to get the nut on...is this okay?
 

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Finally did this project this morning. took me about 2 1/2 hour to do the preparation/replacement and clean.

I have to said this job was harder than I thought but wasn't too bad. It hurts your back if you don't get access to a professional lift. The biggest PITA was the 14 mm flare nut on the end of the hose. I have whole set of flare nut wrench so I have 0% chance to round the bolt. However, working under the vehicle with front wheel on the ramp leave very little space to work with. Plus the 14mm is quite tricky since you cann't find a great angle to use the wrench. I have to use another wrench, and a short 14 mm wrench, play it with a lot of patient. And after 1/2 hr, I had to grab a old pillow under the van to save my neck.. This work stress your muscle quickly.. And no need to say under the vehicle it was dark although I park the van on the driveway, and plus I wear eyeglass so sometimes I cann't see the bolt clearly.

several note for others:
1. a 14mm flare nut wrench is a must, otherwise you have to cut the tube.
2. Drain the PS fluid before you remove the hose.. I made a litte mess since I want to skip this first. In my case I lost only 2qt PS fluid... not 4 qt but I bought 4qt to be safe.
3. You do not need to remove front wheel. the wheel was heavy just no need to do it.
4. Fishing the hose out and put new back in wasn't so difficult at all, if you have some sense and feel. I solo this project and take me no more than 5-10 minutes to do this part. If you have an assistant then go for it.
5. don't forget to remove the electronic connector to the pressure sensor. and remember to connect it back in after replacement.
6. it's also a good chance to replace the PS fluid reservoir and replace the PS inline filter(if you have installed it like I did)
7. I bought this geniune Honda part, the mount place was exactly same as the original one. So there was no guess or tricks to mount it back in place.
53713-SHJ-A01 | HOSE, POWER STEERING FEED (LH) 2007 Honda ODYSSEY
 

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2005 Odyssey, 155k miles . Power steering high pressure hose leaked.Bought honda replacement hose why? plug and play bushings in the right places. Tough part was loosening the flare nut by the rack. Used a crow foot flare nut wrench 14mm with a 3/8 rachet from left top of engine. used PB blaster and alot of elbow grease. Make sure to release electrical connector from the pressure sensor on the hose remove two bottom brackets and top rubber portion bracket, remove the two bolts attached to the powersteering pump. 10mm bolts. Took out old hose from top of engine, it was a liitle difficult. Transferred old pressure sensor to new hose,remember to buy new o -ring for the sensor. Tried to put in the new hose from top of ngine the way it came out! Oh what an ordeal,could not do it and hose almost got entangled in the rear engine tubes and pipes! Frustrated ,I tried from the bottom right of engine first in went the pipe to the rack and then wiggled
the rubber portion to the top to the pump in ten minutes no tangles! Reconnected hose ends and brackets . Whole job was about 7 hours!
Use oem hose , tough to loosen flare nut to rack and replace new hose from bottom right of engine.
I remove the 14 mm flare nut from the underneath. It was the thoughest part too but it was doable maybe sinceI have thin arm... 7 hours, did you count the time for tool shopping :D
 

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I have a 2006 Odyssey EX-L (170,000 miles) with a slow drip on my pressure hose leaving the pump where the rubber hose is crimped onto the tubing. Bought a replacement hose for just under $100 from Advance Auto and tackled this the day after Christmas. The aftermarket hose doesn't have the mounting bushings to attach it to the cross member, but the factory ones are split and easily transferred to the new one. Absolutely worst part was getting the flare nut off the rack and pinion housing. I tried various 14 mm wrenches including a crow's foot flare nut wrench (cheap Harbor Freight one simply spread open), so I had to cut the tubing off at the nut. Then using a 14mm 6-point socket on a 1/2" ratchet, it spun right off. I pushed the new hose down from the top and it magically lined up with no issues. Took about 15 minutes of wiggling the tubing and turning the nut to get it engaged, but went pretty smooth from there. Was able to tighten it up enough from above using a 14mm flare nut wrench, All in about 3 hours with half of that trying to get the flare nut off.
 

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I will tackle this same problem, initially I thought that the car was leaking engine oil. Will order the hose from Rockauto (either Gates or Edelmann) and replace the hose when the new one gets here. I found this youtube video of the exact process, seemed pretty helpful so I'll share it.

 

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ok, tackling this today. the flare nut at the bottom is a beast to take off, so far no luck. as an alternate, has anyone tried to cut the old hose at the top, and splice the new end to it with a metal tube and hose clamps? would that do the trick (even tho somewhat jimmy-rigged), or is there too much pressure in that line?
 

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I'm pretty sure hose clamps would not contain the fluid pressure.

IIRC, someone removed the pesky flare nut by cutting off the tube and then using a socket to remove it.

Dave
 
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