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I know this is a very old thread. Hopefully someone can help. I will be replacing the power steering pump and high and low pressure hoses as well as the reservoir over the next week. As part of this I want to install an inline filter. On the material that comes with the filter it mentions it needs to be installed on the return hose coming from the steering gear to the pump... (the only hose I see coming from the gear to the pump is the high pressure hose?) I put a pic of the hose I think it would be. And the direction I would think that the flow would be. Is this where I need to splice the line? Mine is an 07' Odyssey. 3.5L V6.
 

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That's interesting. Even the aftermarket reservoirs? Seems like I saw a recommendation for an inline filter in several other posts and I think I might have seen that on RockAuto also... Either way. Do you know which is the return line? Lol.
 

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The return line is the upper hose going into the power steering reservoir. Follow that back to wherever you're looking to install the filter.
 

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So, that's the smaller hose then. So if the directions say to install it "towards" the power steering pump. I would imagine that would mean heading AWAY from the reservoir. It's weird the directions on this are so odd. I mean you can not splice into the hose going from the gear into the pump because that is the high pressure hose. <rolling my eyes right now>. Thanks for clarifying which hose it is. :)
 

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So if the directions say to install it "towards" the power steering pump. I would imagine that would mean heading AWAY from the reservoir.
I think you have it figured out, but anyway that's right - PS fluid flows from the reservoir to the pump. The filter goes in the same direction as the flow.

That short tube is the flex point between the moving engine and the fixed reservoir. I'm not sure that adding the filter in that tube will continue to provide the needed flexibility. Maybe a better location would be in the return line between the rack and the reservoir. There's no movement there.

Dave
 

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Do you think I'll really need a pulley tool for an 07'? It seems like most people just loosen the pulley bolt on the power steering pump with the belt still on or they put a screwdriver in there to hold it in place. Can you tighten the bolt without the tool?
 

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If you have an impact gun you can zip it right off. Personally, I'd just torque it back down after the belt is on and it's easier to hold.
 

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I replaced the pressure hose in our 2005 EXL-T just last weekend. Took a bit longer than I was expecting but it's done. After about 15 minutes of fighting I cut off the old line right next to the 14mm flare nut and used a 14mm socket to remove the nut. There is decent access from the top of the engine once the intake box is removed. Installed new PS reservoir and the upgraded PS pump while I was at it. I used a cordless impact gun to remove the PS pulley nut - came off without any issue and the pulley itself came right off.
The only problem - broke the "nut" attached to the tensioner used to loosen the serpentine belt while putting on a new belt. Ended up reusing the old one as it was much easier to put on by then. Will have to get new serpentine belt tensioner one of days when replacing the timing belt and water pump.
 

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Where's the leak?

I'm about to tackle my 05 EXL. I had a massive leak in the left front and I'm wondering if it's even this hose.(yes it's PS fluid for sure) It seems there may be a few others hoses in the flow other than the PS coolant hose that runs along the front and the long one from the pump?) Regardless I do see some leakage on the PS hose at the top near the pump itself. Thanks for any info on where else it may leaking. All I've done so far is remove the splash guard under the front and saw it was very wet)

Thank you, Andy
 

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I'm not sure how we're supposed to know where your leak is coming from when we can't see it.
 

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I did this project on my ODY 2005 a couple months ago after watching this thread. It was definitely the flare nut at the rack side, that was a pain. Couldn't loosen it with the flare nut wrench due to the tight angle. Run buying the crow-foot set, couldn't loosen it. It think it's due to my sub-par mechanical skill. So, ended up cutting the aluminum pipe about 1/4" - 1/2" above the nut then loosened it with a 14mm socket. The installation is better; had a little difficulty lining up the aluminum pipe with the rack so that the flare nut can be first hand-threaded. I believe running the hose from bottom up is easier than from top down. I checked for leak at the flare nut several times after several driving and had to re-tighten the nut one more time before there was no more leak. Should use the OEM for the replacement. It guarantees the fitness. The whole project took me 8 hrs. but was worth it. Thanks to everyone who had posted their work/tips in this thread.
 

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Just replaced the high pressure hose on a 2007 Odyssey, after a few mins of trying to feed the hose down from the top (me under the van and the wife helping from the engine bay side) I decided to feed it from the bottom. Took probably two mins to do go from the bottom to the top. I took the hose out the same way, super easy that way.
 

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I've yet to get the 14mm end secured. I've got it down to about 2 to3 threads left showing. I need a back brace and some dinner now.

The outlet side up top: I had to gently tap it down close to in place with a rubber mallet and then torque it down to specs with the 10mm socket to get the whole thing to seat properly.

I took the 14mm beast off from the top side, moving the air cleaner unit. it works nicely, and I'm using it so far to put things back on down there.

However, I don't remember if it was snug or any threads showed. It's starting to get tight to turn, and I'm a)nervous it's not seated straight, or b) I'll have to start over.

Not sure how someone used a crow foot and a 3/8 off set to get this done from below. I'd sure like some details on that. It's tough to see anything.
 

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I have done a few of these, especially lately. For Ody, I think I managed the 14mm fitting nut from the top, but was working on a 07 MDX last night, and only managed
to break the nut loose from the top, the rest of the work was done from below, both loosen and re-tighten. I though Ody was not fun, until I did the MDX, I hated it!
The brackets holding the line down are positioned way worse.

Finally, as mentioned in another thread, you DO NOT tighten the 14mm fitting nut till no threads show. You go until it gets tight, then give it little more.
 

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I'm about to tackle this once my honda part arrives. Seems like a lot of you ended up cutting the hose after fighting with the 14mm nut. Seems like I should just go right to cutting it vs trying to muscle it off.
 

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I'm about to tackle this once my honda part arrives. Seems like a lot of you ended up cutting the hose after fighting with the 14mm nut. Seems like I should just go right to cutting it vs trying to muscle it off.
nothing wrong with cutting, but I have managed to remove the nut with wrench each time. I use flare 14mm wrench on the nut and stack a 13mm box wrench at the end of flare wrench to give me double the leverage. Breaks it loose every time.
 

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nothing wrong with cutting, but I have managed to remove the nut with wrench each time. I use flare 14mm wrench on the nut and stack a 13mm box wrench at the end of flare wrench to give me double the leverage. Breaks it loose every time.
That's what I did. Went in through the top by moving the air cleaner and a few things around. don't forget to re-connect those.

I wasn't sure if it I had gotten it secured as it was not "quite" flushed with the housing when putting the new piece on. Gave the local shop few dollars to lift it and check. No leaks and a thumbs up from them on torque.

PITA job though. I'd rather do a full brake job that mess with that nut. I didn't cut the old line off, but it would have been easier.
 

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I'm about to tackle this once my honda part arrives. Seems like a lot of you ended up cutting the hose after fighting with the 14mm nut. Seems like I should just go right to cutting it vs trying to muscle it off.
If you have a crows foot head that attaches to a ratchet I would try that first. Getting the nut loose was no problem from me using that setup. Getting it back on was a HUGE PAIN as I was on a creeper under the car. It is hard to see from the vantage point. I ended up using the crows foot attachment and tightening it by hand and then using the ratchet to get it tight.

Good luck. I normally enjoy working on my Odyssey but this one sucked.
 

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If you have a crows foot head that attaches to a ratchet I would try that first. Getting the nut loose was no problem from me using that setup. Getting it back on was a HUGE PAIN as I was on a creeper under the car. It is hard to see from the vantage point. I ended up using the crows foot attachment and tightening it by hand and then using the ratchet to get it tight.

Good luck. I normally enjoy working on my Odyssey but this one sucked.
They make flare wrench type crow foot heads. I would only use that and not just a regular 2 surface crow foot. That fitting is tight and chances are good you will round
off the nut.
 
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