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If you feel the need for an extra filter install between cooler loop and res.. You do not want extra resistance on suction side of pump.
 

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Hi All,
I replaced the high pressure hose on my 2005 Odyssey last weekend and just wanted to add a couple suggestions for others.
1. Use the Honda hose. The Gates one has caused others a lot of trouble. The OEM is an identical replacement.
2. Have a 14 mm flare wrench and an 18" cheater bar ready to go. After you get the flare connection on the steering rack from below, and get it threaded in fairly tight, get at it from the topside. Put your flare wrench on the fitting, then slide your cheater bar on it and tighten it up. I used a 1" inside diameter black plumber's pipe I got from Home Depot for ten bucks. I could return it now if I wanted to, , but I'm going to hold onto it.
3. When you are installing your new hose, thread it first from the bottom up, not from the top down. Put the two metal clips on the hose at the rear before you start trying to thread the nut on the flare connection. However, insert the flared end of the hose in the steering unit first - without trying to thread it - so that after installing the two metal retainers on the hard plastic bulges in the line the metal line is now going dead straight into the steering unit and the nut on the flared line will enter and turn easily. You do not want to booger the threads in your steering box. By installing the bottom two metal clips first you will align the metal line properly and set yourself up to easily and correctly install the captured nut on the metal line into the steering box.

Good luck. It's not a tough job, just tedious. Loosening the nut going into the steering box can be difficult. Crow's foot flare wrench or using a flare wrench with a cheater from above are my two suggestions.
 

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Not every circuit is monitored by the PCM, so, yes that's normal. I believe all that pressure sensor does is bump up the idle a bit when you turn the wheel and it puts a load on the power steering pump.
 

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Not every circuit is monitored by the PCM, so, yes that's normal. I believe all that pressure sensor does is bump up the idle a bit when you turn the wheel and it puts a load on the power steering pump.
Just replaced pressure hose. It was painful to put the bolt on passenger side back and ended up with leaving it unbolted. Other than that it was straightforward job with a 14mm crowfoot wrench.

Plugged in the sensor back.
 

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It was painful to put the bolt on passenger side back and ended up with leaving it unbolted.
If you mean the bolt that holds the hose clamp about a foot down from the pump connector, try it again. Without the clamp, the hose connection will get more stress and could fail sooner rather than later.

Dave
 

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If you mean the bolt that holds the hose clamp about a foot down from the pump connector, try it again. Without the clamp, the hose connection will get more stress and could fail sooner rather than later.

Dave
Hi Dave. It is another bolt which is very close to pressure sensor. I was able to secure two other bolts. One is about a foot from the pump and other is a foot from 14 mm nut connected to rack and pinion
 

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I just did this job on my '05. Did it just like everyone else - cut off or just break off the metal line at the R&P unit and use a 14mm socket. Hardest part was getting the nut for the new line started in that awkward, cramped, almost inaccessible spot. I had the van raised quite a bit so going in the top was not possible. And then of course it took forever to get it tightened up at 1/12 of a turn at a time.
 

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If you mean the bolt that holds the hose clamp about a foot down from the pump connector, try it again. Without the clamp, the hose connection will get more stress and could fail sooner rather than later.

Dave
Replaced four oxygen sensors today and i was able to put the third bolt in place by raising the van higher than normal.
 

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Awesome! :bow:

Dave
 

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Just finished this job on my 2007 Touring (150k miles). Here are a few thoughts:
  • Took me about 3 1/2 hours from start to finish/clean-up
  • I successfully used a flare nut crowfoot wrench from Harbor Freight to loosen and tighten the 14mm nut.
  • It was a pain to get the passenger-side bracket bolted down; the bolt was pretty corroded and didn't want to get back in its hole. Just be patient and keep trying.
  • I would suggest replacing the small o-ring on the power steering pressure switch. When I put the old power steering pressure switch onto my new power steering pressure hose, I noticed that the small o-ring looked pretty squished and deformed. So I'm crossing my fingers and hoping that the o-ring still seals. I'm pretty sure that the part number for the small o-ring is 91304-P0H-013 (O-Ring 7.8X1.9). It is #22 in the attached exploded diagram (I got the diagram from HondaPartsNow, in the subcategory called "Chassis --> P.S. Lines")
 

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Yeah, I just did mine last week, too. Took about an hour and that included flushing all the fluid out beforehand, and then bleeding it at the end. I also used a crows foot flare nut wrench on my long handle flex head ratchet from Harbor Freight and went at it from the top. I didn't find the bracket bolt too difficult but I have a lift and was able to easily get it from the bottom with a flex head 1/4" drive ratchet.

The hose doesn't come with an o-ring for the pressure sensor, or at least mine didn't. I was going to replace it but none of the ones I had in my various kits were the same so I reused the old one. No leaks so it worked out OK. If I were to do it again, I'd order the hose and the sensor o-ring at the same time.
 

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I just finished replacing my hose last weekend. This is the second hose I have replace on an Ody (first on this van). I think most of the tips are noted above, but I would recommend cutting the line just past the nut and removing with a regular socket. It is efficient and will get the nut off every time. I have also used a 8" pipe wrench on the nut to get it off. I have never been successful with a flare wrench, it just doesn't hold. When you remove the line, tie a small string to it to trace the path and follow that when putting the new one back in. Helps to avoid any issues with routing. If you have the car up on jack stands, you can manually flush out almost all the fluid first with just wheel lock to wheel lock turns, then there is little to nothing to leak in the removed line and system. Then you fill the hole thing with clean fluid once you replace the line. My van has 220K on it, so won't likely do this again. With my helper up top, removed and repositioned the new line back in place in about 25 minutes, which wasn't bad at all. I tightened up a few things while under there, heat shield and so on. PS pressure switch connector was broken, so will fix that with the Dorman kit. This is one job that would be a lot nicer on a lift as it gets kind of old on your back after a while. I used a Rein hose from Rock Auto, fit perfectly and was ~$50. Looked just like OEM.
 

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... This is one job that would be a lot nicer on a lift as it gets kind of old on your back after a while. ...
I can understand that.

While I had the van jacked up (and on stands) yesterday to change the oil, I slid in to size up the job. Man, I never realized before how the rack is way far back! Limited head room for heavy wrenching too.

Dave
 

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I developed a leak on my 2010 EX-L in the high pressure side, found this thread, and queued up the project for the weekend. Just finished the job, here are some takeaways:

-Took ~3 hours.
-Ordered the Honda part and pressure sensor o-ring. Fit was perfect.
-Hit the 14mm flare nut the evening before with PB Blaster to let that soak in.
-Removed the air filter box and boot for access.
-Came in from the top to get the flare nut loose, using a 14mm line wrench with another wench box-ended for leverage. Did this before lifting the car. With the method used and pb blaster soak, it loosened up with only a medium amount of push. Loosened the nut completely from above.
-Lifted on jack stands and took the hose out from underneath, put the new hose back in from under. Not overly difficult.
-Tightened the flare nut from above with line wrench only. Took time to be extra sure not to cross thread.
-Trickiest part: getting the pressure sensor loose off of the old hose. Didn't have a wrench thin enough. Used needle-nose vise grips.

The key on this one is prep and plan of attack. With the help of this thread (and the linked YouTube video), I came in prepared and with a plan, had the most concerning part done within the first 10 minutes, and was done in 3 hours.
 

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I need to replace the hose on my 05 this weekend so any advice on where to buy it from? or maybe what to stay away from? Prices range from $27 to $177 for OEM. It looks one person was successful with the Rein from Rock Auto at $50. Thanks.
 

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+1 I recently replaced mine with genuine Honda hose. I did get a Rein high pressure hose (rubber-only) for Toyota only because it is an easy replacement. The Rein one was shape formed and seems similar to oem, so I took a chance. For honda, its rubber with metal crimps and one end goes into the rack. Better keep OEM. With aftermarket, its hard to tell how long before you have to do this again.
 
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