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There are other devices that don't require any resistor changes. Look at S-VCM and there are 1 or 2 others I can't remember the names of. As well as one which has a potentiometer under the hood.

This is a good way for people who are comfortable running their own wiring, but I imagine for a lot of people, the plug and play ones are worth the extra cost.

Either way, this is a good idea putting the control inside the cabin

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I bought a 5 pack of 82 ohm precision 1 watt resistors and "muzzled" my own van by soldering it directly in. For others, I have referred them to this site to buy the official device. I thought about running a wire inside to a switch but this thing has not caused any issues since it's been in and my van is 15 years old and is years out of warranty. I'm okay with it being hard wired permanently.
 

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Have you triggered any codes for too low of a temperature?

The reason I ask is I have a VCMTUNER II which is an active VCM disable device which pass actual temperature data should an overheating condition occur or the vehicle sits idle in park for over 2 minutes entering a maintenance mode needed for procedures such as idle relearn.

What I found is normally when the vehicle is fully warmed up and VCM is disabled my scan tool plugged into the OBDII port shows a coolant temperature of 162F. When my vehicle goes into maintenance mode the scan tool showed the true temperature of 198F, a 36F increase, BUT the temperature gauge needle on the dash did not move even a hair.

I suspect if you actually increase the potentiometer to where you see the needle move lower, you may be setting the resistance higher than it needs to be, and you risk triggering a CEL for the temperature being seen as too low. It could also make it less likely to be alerted to an overheating condition from your temperature gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you triggered any codes for too low of a temperature?

The reason I ask is I have a VCMTUNER II which is an active VCM disable device which pass actual temperature data should an overheating condition occur or the vehicle sits idle in park for over 2 minutes entering a maintenance mode needed for procedures such as idle relearn.

What I found is normally when the vehicle is fully warmed up and VCM is disabled my scan tool plugged into the OBDII port shows a coolant temperature of 162F. When my vehicle goes into maintenance mode the scan tool showed the true temperature of 198F, a 36F increase, BUT the temperature gauge needle on the dash did not move even a hair.

I suspect if you actually increase the potentiometer to where you see the needle move lower, you may be setting the resistance higher than it needs to be, and you risk triggering a CEL for the temperature being seen as too low. It could also make it less likely to be alerted to an overheating condition from your temperature gauge.
Nope. None of those problems.
 

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I like the adjustable setting inside the van. I did a fixed resistor and depending how that works I might need to add the adjuster pot. How did you rout wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like the adjustable setting inside the van. I did a fixed resistor and depending how that works I might need to add the adjuster pot. How did you rout wiring?
I drilled a 1/4 hole through the firewall right at the steering rod protrusion. (Easiest place to drill IMHO). Then, snaked the wires up and over the other looms. No big deal.
 
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