Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Although there is no noticeable issue with my 2006 EX-L (hesitation, loos of power, etc.), the check engine light has been on for about a week now. I need to drive it on a 300mi (round trip) in two days. Will it be safe to do so without having the car checked out? I will not be able to get to the service center at the local Honda dealershipe before. Thanks for any insight -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I think I'd go over to Autozone and let them pull the code for free. Then Google the code at home and assess the severity of the CEL light.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
You can have a place like autozone or Advance auto parts pull the code for you and tell you what it is. Do that and post what it is and we'll tell you how bad it is. Sometimes your gas cap is loose and it throws a code. Really. Or it might be something more serious. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I did a little more research, after seeing the note about the gas cap, and found that this symptom (check engine light) will go away after several days (if it is actually related to a loose GAS CAP). It's my wife's car and she remembered not turning the cap until it 'clicks'. She drove it a few more days, taking the chance that it was just a loose gas cap, and sure enough - the light went out! Thanks for your insight - much appreciated
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
I did a little more research, after seeing the note about the gas cap, and found that this symptom (check engine light) will go away after several days (if it is actually related to a loose GAS CAP). It's my wife's car and she remembered not turning the cap until it 'clicks'. She drove it a few more days, taking the chance that it was just a loose gas cap, and sure enough - the light went out! Thanks for your insight - much appreciated
Did you get one of these messages (depending on model) as well as the CEL?

Per the owner's manual:
You will also see a ‘‘CHECK FUEL CAP’’ message on the odometer/trip meter display (LX, EX and EX-L models) or ‘‘TIGHTEN FUEL CAP’’ message on the multi information display (Touring models).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
In my case I did not get any CEL. The display just says "Check Fuel Cap".
This started happening yesterday. I did fuel up the Odyssey a couple of days
before and did not get this message until yesterday.

Any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,163 Posts
Tighten the cap at least three clicks and see if it goes away. The test has to fail several run cycles before it throws a fault. It also has to not fail several run cycles before it gets turned off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
I am very mindful of that several clicks to ensure the cap is fully tight.
I keep that in mind all the time when it comes to putting back the fuel caps in
all of my cars and Ody. I think the issue may be more than the fuel cap.
Or perhaps replacing the cap itself.

Tighten the cap at least three clicks and see if it goes away. The test has to fail several run cycles before it throws a fault. It also has to not fail several run cycles before it gets turned off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Guys/Gals explain this if you can. I'm the designated Ody driver today.
My initial issue is "Check Fuel Cap" message on the dashboard.
The message came on when I started the Ody leaving work.
On the way home I was pulled over by the CHP. I thought "now what did I do wrong?"
She (CHP) was kind enough to warn me that my right brake light is not working. It's raining hard where I am now
so I stopped by an autoparts store to pick up a replacement bulb.
Got home and replaced it. The "Check Fuel Cap" message is gone.

Why didn't my lightbulb warning light come on in the first place?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
I guess I'm the only one who experienced this thus far.

In order to validate my finding. I removed the new bulb and put back the old
burned out tail light (right side). Put it back together again.
Restarted the van first time, no check fuel cap message came on.
Shut off the engine.
Pulled keys out. waited a minute or so.
Put keys back in and restarted the van. Voila! "Check Fuel Cap" message came on.
At this point, we can say that there may be 2 places we can check. (1) Fuel cap itself and (2) check your tail lights.
Disclaimer: this is only true for my situation so you may have a difference. But it's something to start with.


Reinstalled the new bulbs again, put it all back together.
Restarted the van. NO MORE "Check Fuel Cap" message.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]mine is 2006 touring. i disconnected the battery (negative side only) for 10 mins. After restarting the engine, the check engine light is no longer on. :) of course I have to reenter the code again.[/FONT]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Bad motor mounts on my 06 touring caused my check engine light to keep coming up ! Replaced all 5 mounts , runs great again, no more shaking while speeding up. 165,000 miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Bad motor mounts on my 06 touring caused my check engine light to keep coming up ! Replaced all 5 mounts , runs great again, no more shaking while speeding up. 165,000 miles
Kickass - The repair shop, who specializes in Honda/Acura and is a reputable/trustworthy operation, where I have my 2006 Ody fixed says the motor mounts need to be replaced and that total is $1750. Initially, i opted to deal with the additional vibration due to engine not having proper dampening from 'active' motor mounts. However, I went to change the oil today and only had about a 'finger-width' clearance between the oil filter and the frame just underneath the filter. There is no way, that I can see, to successfully unscrew the filter, due to lack of clearance. My suspicion is that the motor has 'dropped' closer to the frame due to failed/broken motor mount. I don't think the repair shop is trying to gouge at that price but is pretty darn expensive. What did you pay to have all 5 of yours done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
The mounts are really, really expensive for the EX-L/Touring with VCM - the rear (50810-SHJ-305) lists for 662.37, the front (50830-SFY-023) lists for 662.15, the side (50820-SHJ-A03) lists for 73.87, and then the two transmission mounts are cheap - they are $57.97 for the front (50805-S87-A80) and $19.62 for the rear (50806-SHJ-A01). So if you are paying full bill for the mounts, that's $1475.98 for just the parts! shouldn't be more than a couple hours labor to install, so $1750 is certainly in the ballpark from a dealer.

If you do the DIY thing, you can get all the parts for a little over $1000 plus shipping. There are aftermarket mounts that are much cheaper for the front/rear, but I have no idea how well they work. It's probably a good idea to keep on top of motor mounts - once one fails, the extra load on the others is going to send them to an earlier grave. If you can't turn the oil filter, then your engine/transmission has moved a lot. (we have 211k on our van and have replaced all the mounts at least once (twice for the front engine mount and rear transmission mount) - however, we have an EX, so our mounts are waaaay cheaper (e.g. the front lists for about $130 for the EX)
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top