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Discussion Starter #1
I got a P1607 code which points to ECM malfunction on my 2000 odyssey. The symptom is: the engine runs rough, and when I place the transmission in D4, the D4 light disappears, and the car does not want to move forward. It only happen early in the morning when it is cold. I blow hair dryer on the ECM unit and restart the engine and the problem disappears. So, it is definitely pointing to malfunction in the ECU. Dealer is asking for about one grand for the unit. Any suggestion on which route I should go for the replacement: that is get a rebuilt unit or stick with OEM dealer part. Does anyone knows a reputable web site that I can order the ecu? If I happen to locate a used unit with the exact part number (37820-P8F-A52), do I still need to reprogram the ecu? Thank for your help.
 

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P1607 is an internal failure of the PCM. Before replacing I would check the connectors and reseat them . Check battery voltage also.

After seeing another post check for rodent damage to the wires...
 

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The first time it happened was a month ago, and I cleared the code thinking it could be a fluke. It happened again yesterday morning when the car was parked outside. Last night, I cleared the code, unplugged and replugged the wire sets. This morning when I turned on the ignition key before starting the engine, the check engine light is permanently "ON" before starting the engine. Usually check engine light will disappear when the key is left at "ON" position for about 20 seconds (the step before I start the engine). Checked the battery, the voltage is 12.7V with engine off, and 14.5V with engine running. I cleaned the connector and battery post with sand paper. Let's see how it go early in the morning. I read somewhere in this forum that warranty for ecu is 8yrs/80,000 miles. My 2000 odyssey just turned 8yr on August 24, but the car has 79,600 miles on it. I wil give it a call to Honda Corporation and see they can cover it under good will.
 

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I bought an exact unit (37820-P8F-A52) for under $100.00 from ebay. I am crossing my finger that it is a working unit. Scanning in this forum, there was talk of requiring the unit to be reprogrammed for vin# and mileage and etc. Anyone know anything about this requirement? I just want to swap the unit out and hopefully that will work.

Also, can anyone confirm that the warranty for ecu is 8ys/80,000 miles? Thanks.
 

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diy_guy,

If you follow the link below you will see the ECU is an 8 year or 80,000 mile warranty period.

http://www.epa.gov/obd/warranties.htm#1

If the ECU you bought off ebay is the exact same unit/part number it should function fine. I should add I'm not sure if the immobilizer function is controlled by the ECU or not, use the search function on the forum, it works well, or one of the other members will surely answer that question. If the immobilizer is controlled by way of the ECU then you would need Honda to reprogram the ECU to match you keys. That should not cost you too much, but if that is the case, I would explain you situation to several different Honda dealerships and go with the most reasonable one. Let us know how you make out and lots of luck, Russ.
 

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Russ, thanks for the link. I am not expecting much from Honda Corporation regarding the warranty since my car is 2 months passed the warranty period, though the car is still under 80,000 miles. But I will call Honda to see if they will do it on good will. Otherwise, I will fall back on the unit that I bought from ebay. I will look into whether the ecu controls immobilizer or not. Thanks again.
 

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Did this code occur after a battery drain?

When inserting the key the immobilizer indicator will come on for 2 seconds and go off. Does this happen?

If the immobilizer light continues to blink after 2 seconds and engine won't start and you have the P1607 code - bad PCM.

However, before installing the new to you PCM, follow the Troubleshooting for the P1607 code below and drive a few cycles to see if the code goes away. On the other hand, you only spent $100 on the PCM, but don't replace if you don't have to.

DTC P1607: PCM Back Up Circuit Malfunction PCM Internal Circuit Malfunction
1. Reset the PCM. (Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No. 13 CLOCK BACKUP fuse (7.5A) (A) from the passenger’s
under-dash fuse/relay box for 10 seconds.)
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
3. Wait 30 seconds.
Is DTC P1607 indicated?
YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original PCM.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
6. Wait 10 seconds.
Is DTC P1607 indicated?
YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original PCM.
NO - Intermittent failure, systemis OK at this time.
A low battery can cause this problem. Ask the customer if the engine had to be jump-started recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The battery is about 3 yrs old, and has never been drained. The car has not required jump start for the last 3 yrs or so. The first time it happened was on Sept. 19. I used the OBDII reader and cleared the code. The car is usually parked inside the garage. The problem shows up when I park the car outside and start the car early in the morning during cold temperature. I live in Bay Area. The symptom is P1607 code, engine running rough, D4 light does not light up when you put transmission at D4 and the car does not want to move forward. 2 days ago, the problem showed up 2nd time when I park the car outside and start the engine. It seems that it is temperature related. I blow warm air on the ecu with hair dryer, start the engine and the symptom goes away: engine runs normal, D4 light came back on and can drive normally. This morning the p1607 came back on before I even start the engine. The battery is 12.5V with no load. Everything else function normally including immobilizer.

New Dad New Van, is ecu (PCM) part of the immobilizer unit? if so, then the car will not start if I put a new ecu. It will require reprogramming in order for my existing key to work.
 

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The immobilizer codes are kept in the PCM so replacing it requires reprogramiing it. The test in the manual is to replace it with a known good PCM and tape the key for it to the origonal to allow it to start. So at minumim you will have to program the keys.
 

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01sport said:
William,
I like your avatar. Is that the Liberty Belle?
Jeff
Liberty Belle at the Duxford Flying Legands Air show this summer. Had three B17's at the show with two flying. One of 500 pictures I took at the show...
 

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I'm a big fan of the B16. I live near Van Nuys airport in SoCal. I have had rides on the "Fuddy Duddy" and the "Aluminum Overcast" which were flying for the EAA. One day a 17 few over the house which I did not recognize. I drove over to the airport an saw the "Liberty Belle". Beautiful. Did not get fly ride in her. Maybe next time she's in Van Nuys.
 

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I have the same problem when it is -15' C. I like your temporary solution by blowing a hair dryer to the PCM - at least it would allow you to put it in D4 to drive normally even the Engine Check light stays on. Could you tell me exactly where the PCM is located? I could not find it under the hood. Is it under the dash board?
Thanks in advance.
JW
 

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I got a P1607 code which points to ECM malfunction on my 2000 odyssey. The symptom is: the engine runs rough, and when I place the transmission in D4, the D4 light disappears, and the car does not want to move forward. It only happen early in the morning when it is cold. I blow hair dryer on the ECM unit and restart the engine and the problem disappears. So, it is definitely pointing to malfunction in the ECU. Dealer is asking for about one grand for the unit. Any suggestion on which route I should go for the replacement: that is get a rebuilt unit or stick with OEM dealer part. Does anyone knows a reputable web site that I can order the ecu? If I happen to locate a used unit with the exact part number (37820-P8F-A52), do I still need to reprogram the ecu? Thank for your help.
2000 Honda odyssey van p1607-internal failure of the PCM code, green immobilizer key light flashing, but starts and runs. Takes off very slowly.
I've replaced the ECM, immobilizer receiver, new battery, had key recalibrated to the ECM by the dealer.
Someone tried to steal it, replaced the ignition switch, then replaced the ECM and had it cloned, then replaced the immobilizer receiver( around the ignitionswitch/key) that receives or sends the signal to the ECM. Will start and run with our with new immobilizer receiver or with the old immobilizer receiver.
Problem: green immobilizer key light is still blinking , it will start and run but a bit rough for a minute and check engine light won't go off, but it takes off really really slowly, then after running for 15 minutes if you turn it off, the blinking green immobilizer light goes away and then it runs just fine, it clunks when putting the thing in gear - but shifts just fine when driving. The D4 Light won't light up when puttting it in gear, but once you drive it for 15-20 minutes, shut it off, then start it again, green blinking light goes away, and when put it in gear, it doesn't clunk into gear, and also the D4 light lights up now on the dash.

Any suggestions.
Thank you
Mike
 
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