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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For years my check engine light would come on after an oil light. While my VIN is about 1000 before what is indicated in TSBs 05-019 and 05-037 but I believe it's the same error. It always went away fairly quickly so I didn't bother with it.

Now years later the light is coming on at least once per week and the engine runs roughly. I turn it off and on again and it seems to run fine and the check engine light eventually goes out.

It came on today right after I started the van. I sent to Autozone and the codes were P2647 and six P0301 (cylinder misfire on each cylinder). Note that it was when the engine was started and not when I'd expect V-TEC to kick in at higher RPMs.

I should also add that I'm running a 5W-20 synthetic and the oil level stick indicates it's full.

I tried to search the web and I found some references to a VTEC Oil Pressure Switch (part: 37250-PR3-003).

Does anybody have experience with this? Thoughts on trying to replace the switch and see if that fixes it?

Thanks in advance.
 

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The VIN ranges in the TSBs start at 1, so you cannot have an Ody about 1000 before. Double check your VIN and see if the TSBs apply.

Regardless of if they do or not, I would go to the dealer and have them check your Ody for any PCM software updates. If an update is available, have them install it and continue to monitor your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're right...got lost in all the VIN digits. I called my Honda dealer and for $30 they're going to load the new PCM software that fixes the 'after oil change CEL goes on' Service Bulletin 05-037 issue. Not sure this will fix the other issue but I'll get new software, monitor, and repost if the issue is still there. Thank you.
 

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DTC P2647: Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage


    • VTEC Switch Failure
    • VTEC Switch Open
    • VTEC Switch SIG Line Open
    • VTEC Switch GND Line Open
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for posting. Looks like all the codes are VTEC switch related. I did get the new SW loaded. No problem for several days but then it went on when I started the van and the engine idled roughly. So I shut it off, turned it on, and the engine ran smoothly again. The engine light went out before I could get to an auto store to get the CEL code. I'm waiting for the light to come back on to get the codes again it sounds like I should get a new VTEC switch.

But I'm not sure why it's coming on at engine start vs when VTEC kicks in.. unless it's an automatic engine start switch check?
 

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    • VTEC Switch Failure <<bad switch
    • VTEC Switch Open <<wire cut or loose
    • VTEC Switch SIG Line Open <<signal loose or cut
    • VTEC Switch GND Line Open <<Ground shorted or open

your problem doesn't mean a bad switch, could be an open wire or cut or short (damage) etc..
 

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just had this code with my 07 accord. caused my engine to not rev past 2800 rpm.
oil pressure sensor replaced,, fixed
 

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2007 Odyssey 98,000ish miles: initial problem occurred shortly after fillingup the tank and then proceeding to make the climb up to Skyline Drive in the ShenandoahNational park, about 2500 or 3000 feet if memory serves. Upon entering the park the check engine lightcame on along with the two lights associated with the VSA and the engine beganto run rough and would not produce power. I pulled over and began to trouble shoot. First thing I thought was bad gas but then Irealized I had somehow left the fuel door open and when I checked the cap I thought it was not completely tight(more on that later). Leaving the caploose brings on the CEL and I assumed (incorrectly) that the change in altitudecaused a fuel feed problem because of loss of pressure in the tank. Tightened the cap started the engine and itran fine. CEL extinguished after severalmiles of driving.
The problem surfaced again with my wife at the wheel. Again suspecting the fuel cap I changed to anew one. Next day it did it again. I bought and OBD II code reader and pulled a P2647 a rocker arm actuator control systemstuck on (bank 1) down. Research wassomewhat inconclusive as I was not fully educated on how the VTEC system workedbut the oil pressure switch was implicated on several posts including thisthread. However, I also saw mention ofthe screen/filter on the VTEC valve assembly getting clogged. Into the shop….dealer. They said it was the oil pressure switch onthe VTEC assembly and $270 later they said it was fixed. That afternoon it happened again to my wife whileshowing houses to clients (my ear still hurts from that phone call but I can’tblame her).
More research on how this system works, a call to the dealerand I take the car back in the shop the next morning (by the way, the van neverexhibits symptoms with a cool engine only toward the end of a day’s driving). I ask the dealer if they actually verifiedthe switch was bad by testing it…I can tell from the hesitation in the responsethe answer is no! The dealer and I have a little talk about troubleshooting viaparts replacement. I let them know thatI come to them for their diagnostic capability and not their ability to replaceparts, I can replace parts. They acknowledgethe admonishment and this time they say that the valve assembly filter/screenis clogged thus restricting the flow of oil and preventing the switch fromopening. They replace the VTEC valveassemble including the oil pressure switch again (the dealer and I have anothertalk about that latter). They said the screenwas integral to the whole assembly and could not be replaced by itself.
I drove the car home without incident and turned it over tomy wife…a couple of hours later I get another phone call from her and my ear ishurting…again! Back to the dealer thenext morning. We have another conversationabout proper diagnostics and trouble shooting in addition to the fact that theyreplaced the same part (oil pressure switch) twice and charged me for it andthey gouged me on the price of the valve assembly. Honda OEM parts dealers on line sell thevalve assemble with the pressure switch for $286.22. The dealer here charged me $408.88. This time they give me a loaner car and theykeep the van for two days of trouble shooting and another day to replace whatthey finally decide they think is the problem…they think the oil pump is notproducing enough pressure.
The van is currently still at the dealer. They are replacing the pump today and it issupposed to be ready by COB. Iunderstand where they are going with the oil pump but what I don’t know yet(but will ask when I pick the van up) is did they verify low pressure output onthe pump or are they troubleshooting via parts replacement again. I would have thought that if the pump outputpressure was low that I would have seen some other indication besides thesymptoms I have seen. There is not anoil pressure gauge but I assumed that there was still an oil pressure sensor(besides the one for the VTEC system) that the computer monitored. And I would have thought if the pressure waslow enough to be problematic to the VTEC system that it would have produced acode in the computer for low oil pressure. If not I would say that is a design flaw. Long post I know but this problem has completelyflummoxed the dealer and I know I can’t be the only one out there withunexplained VTEC oil pressure problems. I’ll post the results of the latest fix.

 

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Hello keelhauld,

Was your issue ever resolved? I have the same problem. I plan to switch out the VTEC oil switch and clean the value assembly to see if that will help. I have added a oil thicker (No Smoke) which seems to resolved my problem, but loss about 50-75 miles per tank due to the thinker oil.
 

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Can anyone tell me where is the variable valve engine oil pressure sending unit on a 2006 Odyssey 6 cylinder? Is this the same as the vtec oil switch? If so, w
here is it located?
 
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