[daniboy1946]

I have just purchased a Honda certified 2010 Odyssey LX with 13K on it. Everything is fine except this one thing:
When I back out in the morning and brake there is no clunk. When I then put it into drive and start to gas it (gently) to move forward - "CLUNK" from the front. It is quite loud like a hammer blow to a brake rotor say. If instead I hold the vehicle with the brake so it cannot move when I gas it there is no clunk. If, after getting the clunk, I immediately brake and stop (there is no clunk when I brake) and then pull away again there is no clunk. If I back up again, brake, and then go forward again I get the clunk again as I gas it. Problem subsides quite quickly as I drive (and brakes get warmed up?).
So, do I have the famous Honda loose caliper/pad problem and, even though I AM NOT USING THE BRAKES AS I GO FORWARD, the clunk still happens because the pads are always in contact on disc brakes and will still move as the rotor rotates as I pull away?

 

[mjody]

Normal. It is the VSA modulator doing a self-check.

 

[daniboy1946]

Puzzled

Thanks for reply.

However, if when backing out I do NOT use the brakes but just roll to a halt then pull away I do NOT get the clunk.

• Is this consistent with the VSA modulator self-check?
• Why would this check sound like a sharp hammer blow?
• Why does the loudness of the clunk diminish after I've driven a hundred yards or so - meaning if I then stopped, backed up and braked then pulled away again the clunk is reduced to more of a click?

 

[mjody]

The self check happens once you are moving forward and reach a certain speed.
It is a different sound in vehicles, but ours sounded like a hammer striking a metal anvil.
If not sure, take it to a dealer for inspection, it is under warranty.

 

[skinny2]

Doesn't sound like the VSA actuating at all...that ONLY happens once you hit 5-10mph or something like that. And then only once after a restart.

This sounds like a loose brake pad to me. Not all that uncommon for any vehicle really...I would ask them to look at it. It may just need taken apart and put back together...

 

[svezarov]

The clunking on the front is a very tricky issue. I had it for about 2 years. Was driving me nuts. It sounded like a hammer hitting metal. More like "bang" then a "clung". Read every single thread with regards of it and was about to change my left strut, when one day my steering started going wild at the moment of gear change, so when I looked at the suspension turned out that the front bolt that holds the control arm to the sub-frame was completely out. I tightened it, torqued it and no noise since then. It has been about 14 months since then. It also cured my steering wheel pull to one side.
And again yours can be another loose piece in the puzzle.

 

[arielb1]

What I would do, maybe remove the calipers and pads and test drive safely? Just throwing out ideas...not sure what codes you would end up with. My bimmer has a brake sensor. Im new to Ody so not sure what to expect or if this a bad idea all together.

I know with my 4 runner, the brake pads were slightly smaller than my calipers. Once I took off the pads, it would stop..thats is how I discovered it was the issue and it only occured on my left front wheel and not all the time. I just left it alone.

thoughts?

 

[daniboy1946]

Hmmm!

Thanks for the replies.
This clunking is certainly not a clear cut problem. The HONDA forums (going back to 1990s vehicles) are fairly full of clunking with a preponderance of the cause being loose brake pads. I would have thought that by 2010 HONDA would have sorted it all out.
However, based on my own testing that I described on my post (that logically to me at least seem to point to front brakes pad moving back and forth), and other replies here, I am inclined to think HONDAs, including my 2010 ODY, still have this problem. I will take the trip underneath and look for missing/loose bolts, although with the vehicle just having gone thru the 150 point Certified vehicle check, that would seem unlikely. I think I will also get a "free brakes check" locally and see if they can find problems with the calipers/pads. If they do, I can march into the Honda dealer with good evidence and ask for a warranty fix. I will post by results here.
If anyone has had exactly my problem (carefully read my original post) and solved it, please add to this thread.

 

[daniboy1946]

More info on this now

2010 ODY LX, 14,000

I have now developed more definitive info on this pull away "clunk". Hopefully someone can now decipher what it must be from this:

1. Cold vehicle.
2. Back out and come to a stop.
3. Put into Drive and immediately pull away - LOUD CLUNK from front.
4. Can make it do this again and again as long as I back up first.
5. HOWEVER, if after backing up I put it into Drive and wait 2-3 seconds before giving it gas, a very light click occurs after which if I then gas it I do NOT get the loud clunk at all. It's as though something is slowly moving into place if I wait.
6. Loud clunk never repeats if I remain in Drive (or neutral), stop and pull away again. MUST back up first.
7. Loudness of clunk diminishes as vehicle warms up to normal temp.
8. Other than this, the vehicle drives beautifully with a very smooth tranny.

So, what is it guys? Tranny? Drive shaft/axle? ???

Dealer says he has scanned the tranny, checked shafts/axles, engine mounts and brakes (for loose caliper/pads) - found nothing. Honda HQ techline were no help to Dealer either - suggested my hammer blow clunk is probably normal . What I have is not normal as my neighbor's 2010 Ody does not clunk.

 

[txn]

daniboy,

How about this:
Ask someone to be in the driver seat and you stand outside the van.
Go through step 1,2,3 and see where the LOUD clunk come from (left brake, right brake or else where like engine mount) .

On my old Sienna, when I shift from P to R with foot on brake, there was a clunk but not loud. It's just the gears engaging. No issue with trans or engine mount in the 12-year driving the Sienna.

Here's an analogy to your step 1, 2 and 3 above.

This is how I do a 3-point turn on a narrow street.
1) Gear in D, make a turn then complete stop.
2) Shift from D to N to R. hit the gas pedal to back up the car then complete stop.
3) Shift from R to N to D, hit the gas pedal to drive forward.

On my old Accord and old Sienna, in step 2 and step 3, if I hit the gas pedal too fast, there's a small but noticeable delay then there's a quick lurch as the gears are asked to change too quickly from D to R or from R to D.
If I don't hit the gas pedal too fast, there's enough time for the gear to change and there's no lurch.
But, I am sure my Accord and Sienna didn't make any LOUD clunk during the 3-point turn.

 

[landar]

Could you try backing up without applying the brakes, then put it into drive and pull forward to see if the clunk persists? You could put a chock (block of wood..2x4) in the driveway (or clear area) that your tire would gently bump up against to stop the slight backward motion so that you could safely put it into drive.

My reasoning(however flawed) is to possibly separate a brake problem from a drivetrain problem. Then focus on that area. Of course, just putting it into reverse will require you to apply the brakes and that may be all it takes to set the condition brake-wise. Still, the test might give some clues.

 

[BigBoat]

2010 ODY LX, 14,000

I have now developed more definitive info on this pull away "clunk". Hopefully someone can now decipher what it must be from this:

1. Cold vehicle.
2. Back out and come to a stop.
3. Put into Drive and immediately pull away - LOUD CLUNK from front.
4. Can make it do this again and again as long as I back up first.
5. HOWEVER, if after backing up I put it into Drive and wait 2-3 seconds before giving it gas, a very light click occurs after which if I then gas it I do NOT get the loud clunk at all. It's as though something is slowly moving into place if I wait.
6. Loud clunk never repeats if I remain in Drive (or neutral), stop and pull away again. MUST back up first.
7. Loudness of clunk diminishes as vehicle warms up to normal temp.
8. Other than this, the vehicle drives beautifully with a very smooth tranny.

I've heard it on my van several times, same symptom, I would not call it a clunk but a loud click sound as soon as the car starts rolling. If I wait 3-5 secs and then pull forward, nada.

Question: Does it sound louder when the front wheels are completely turned right or left? On mine that is the case, else no sound...

 

[daniboy1946]

Thanks TXN, landar and bigboat

I have backed up and rolled to a stop without using the brakes. I still get the clunk as I pull forward (unless I wait a few secs as described).

Sounds like you have the same prob Bigboat only not near as loud as me - mine is like a sharp hammer blow. Like you, if I wait a few seconds before pulling away, then no clunk. I haven't tried having the wheel turned hard left or right as I pull away. I will have to try that. Have you had anyone tell you what your clunk is?
I test drove another 2010 ODY at a dealer today to compare using the exact same sequence, and no clunking of any kind occurred, just normal small clicks.

 

[fusionrx]

Do either of you use a parking brake?

 

[landar]

I have backed up and rolled to a stop without using the brakes. I still get the clunk as I pull forward (unless I wait a few secs as described).

Sounds like you have the same prob Bigboat only not near as loud as me - mine is like a sharp hammer blow. Like you, if I wait a few seconds before pulling away, then no clunk. I haven't tried having the wheel turned hard left or right as I pull away. I will have to try that. Have you had anyone tell you what your clunk is?
I test drove another 2010 ODY at a dealer today to compare using the exact same sequence, and no clunking of any kind occurred, just normal small clicks.

Sounds more and more like an axle issue, perhaps a CV joint. I wonder if you could raise the front end and manually rock each wheel backward then forward and get a similar (although quieter) sound?

 

[BigBoat]

Do either of you use a parking brake?

Yes, the normal use, not sure if I follow

Have you had anyone tell you what your clunk is?

Nope. I have a list of items I want them to check on the next service, let's see

 

[BigBoat]

Sounds more and more like an axle issue, perhaps a CV joint. I wonder if you could raise the front end and manually rock each wheel backward then forward and get a similar (although quieter) sound?

I thought about it this morning and the same thing came to my mind initially (either that or the brakes/ABS) but if daniboy1946 and I have the same click/clunk/clack, Why is only making the noise when shifting from R to D and pulling away within x number of seconds? I heard it once while wife was getting out of the garage, the noise did not seem to come from either wheel

It called my attention because we have different gen cars yet they have the same powertrain (give or take some changes)

But now see these examples, I may be all wrong and is just another of those Honda "features"

clicking sound when going from reverse to drive - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums

Shifting from reverse to Drive, clunk! - Drive Accord Honda Forums

 

[daniboy1946]

FUSIONRX - Yes, I use parking brake. What's your thoughts here though?

LANDAR - Yes, I was starting to gravitate to axle/CV. I will jack up each side and see what happens when I rotate each wheel.

 

[fusionrx]

If you are parking on a hill, wondering if the brake is not properly releasing if its under a great deal of tension?

 

[jferello]

I had the same exact clunking noise, when reversing out of my spot, braking them moving forward about 50' or so then clunk. Turned out to be the left strut mount. Mechanic said the mount hole should be round but mine was oval or something. So basically the strut would slide backward when reversing, then when you pull forward it snap towards the front.

Just to clarify, my mechanic replaced ONLY the strut mounts and kept the existing struts to save me money as they were not leaking, hes not a stealorship

Side note, if you have your mechanic replace the strut mounts make sure they order the bearings & the strut mount as my mechanic said whenever he orders strut mounts for any other type of car the package includes the bearings. Apparently Honda does not package the bearings with the strut mount, you must purchase them separately. If you go to the stealorship you should be fine as they already know this.