[celicool]

I have read multiple threads that all say the vcmuzzler by verbatim is designed for a variety of differences in climate. The key is to use the different resistors to get the temp below 167. I have my DIY version that I started by using the 82 ohm resistor. The temp reported around 170, so I switched to the 100 ohm. This time, the temp is right at 167, but the vcm is still coming on. I am guessing that the temp has to be below 167 for vcm to be disabled and sitting at 167 is not cutting it.

I know that logically, the next step would be to try the 120 ohm resistor. However, since I bought the van, I have had the smell and "taste" of coolant in my nose and mouth after the van has been out for any significant length of drive. I first did a block test to see if it was the head gasket, but it came back as a pass. I had observed that the radiator level was low, but the overflow tank was full. The other day, I noticed steam coming from the radiator cap. I suspect that the cap is preventing the overflow from being drawn into the radiator. I plan on replacing the cap very soon.

My ultimate question, I am guessing that I know that answer to but would prefer asking here, is does the vcm system only fully get muzzled if the coolant system is working perfectly? I would rather spend the energy and time with getting the cooling system working than fight with the muzzler if that is the true issue. Is it common to have to run a high resistor in winter? I know that some people have said they run high in summer, which makes sense. I am just stumped with this muzzle job. Any helpful advice is greatly appreciated.

Unless you have a slow leak in your coolant system, I suspect you desperately need to burp your system. Sounds like you have air in your system, and that is not good as far as cooling goes. Replace that radiator cap first then burp your system using one of the Kits like these. There are some less expensive versions on the market (i.e. Amazon), but Lisle is good. If you are going to have a shop doing coolant change, hopefully they will do the job right and eliminate the air in the system afterward.

It's ok for the Eco to come on intermittently even after you switch to 100 ohm. If you go that route (higher ohm), eventually you will get code on your dashboard. Try to stay with 82 ohm if you can by removing the muzzler before doing PCM reset and idle relearn then plug the 82 ohm back in.

 

[celicool]

If higher rating resistors are the solution, wouldn't all makers already have them?
I don't want to rain on your parade, but you will find out soon.

 

[celicool]

I do not advocate for buying a professional made muzzler--I have kids myself so I do understand the concept of not living above my mean. I have the original muzzler from Verbatim, and it is still in use today. I could have easily make one myself, but his was just too cool looking (in 2016 when he was probably the only one had it on the market). $100 plus shipping from Canada was not a drop in the bucket, but I thought of it as an investment and a cheap insurance policy.

What I am saying is that you should concentrate on fixing your cooling system instead of focusing on higher value on your resistors. Higher value of resistors might work at first but will eventually set code; and I don't remember what that code is. It's something like "lower temp than expected....." This van actually knows the actual temp and the reported temp that your muzzler tries to suppress.

Perhaps, you already fixed it with the new radiator cap. If not, I would be looking at the cooling system closer. Do I have air in the system? Do both of my fans turn-on at low speed and again at high speed. If both fans run on low but only one fan runs on high then you will have problem...etc.

When I burped my cooling system on the Accord a few months ago with the Lisle funnel. My car was running for more than 1 hour before I shut it down. Then, I left it sit in the garage overnight with about 1/10 coolant left in the funnel. When I came back in the morning, most of the coolant in the funnel was gone. Guess where it went? that's right all the coolant went in the radiator. Remember the law of physics?

Until you have a normal working cooling system, higher resistors will not work in long term and actually only masks the actual problem you have with your van.