Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Have a coolant leak on my 2003 Ody. Here are a couple pics of the valve. coolant leak.jpg , coolant leak 2.jpg . Any clue what it is? Doesn't look too hard to replace. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
Looks like the heater control valve. It controls the flow of coolant to the heater core for your interior heat control. Yes, looks like it needs replacing, and is probably an easy job to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,074 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,866 Posts
Get yourself a pair of pliers for those spring clamps and the replacement should be easy enough. If that's not possible, ChannelLocks should work. The clamps look plenty good enough to reuse them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I just replaced the water (heater control) valve today. I am having heating problems but that is the subject of a separate thread . . .

Here are my thoughts after doing the work:

Space is tight and those clamps are terrible to work with. There are other hoses and wires in the way. Granted, I am not a mechanic and I may not have all of the best tools. Rather than play around with the baked on hoses, I cut them out and replaced them with new ones. Did I mention space is tight? If you need any help, let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,074 Posts
androc123, I believe you replaced the Heater Control Valve which attached to the firewall and not the Water Valve that is seen in the photo above? But they both would affect the HVAC system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
No, that is what I replaced. Those terms are both used to identify the same part. Honda calls it a water valve but it is also known as a heater control valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
I just replaced the water (heater control) valve today. I am having heating problems but that is the subject of a separate thread . . .

Here are my thoughts after doing the work:

Space is tight and those clamps are terrible to work with. There are other hoses and wires in the way. Granted, I am not a mechanic and I may not have all of the best tools. Rather than play around with the baked on hoses, I cut them out and replaced them with new ones. Did I mention space is tight? If you need any help, let me know.

Did you need to drain the coolant? If not, how much coolant spill came off when you replaced the valve and put in the new hoses? I have the same leak and wonder if I need to drain coolant first since it was not mentioned. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
No, I did not. There was spillage as a result. I used some rags and a bucket underneath. It does get all over though before it trickles down. If you have pets, I would drain it or make sure you rinse the area off real good. No pets at my home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply. I found this valve on ebay--http://www.ebay.com/itm/200456845985?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 --same part number and looks good. What do you think? dealers here wants 30 bucks for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Looks like the part to me. Just a matter of whether you prefer buying OEM vs aftermarket. Don't know how reliable the aftermarket will be. On the other hand, it is not a sophisticated part so you will be probably okay if you go with aftermarket. It is up to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
A lot of coolant will drain out of the engine when you remove the hose. I didn't think of this until almost a half gallon drained on to my garage floor, but you can put a hose clamp on the hose leading to the engine, which will minimize coolant loss. Just be careful not to clamp on the hose beneath the one leading to the valve, which just makes it more difficult to apply the clamp. I bought a set of hose clamps at Harbor Freight Tools. Here's a picture of what I did; that's the brake booster on the right there.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,866 Posts
Did you need to drain the coolant? If not, how much coolant spill came off when you replaced the valve and put in the new hoses? I have the same leak and wonder if I need to drain coolant first since it was not mentioned. Thanks.
If you haven't changed the coolant yet, this may be a good time if it is due while you are in there anyway. The factory fill is good for 10 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
Ok, just finished replacing the heater control valve. I got the one I mentioned above from ebay--(bid 6 bucks plust 5 for s/h = 11 shipped.) Seller not sure if it was oem or not but its identical to the old one. Now, no more leak from the screw top. I improvised couple of my vise grips and inserted some old clear tubing on each bite to protect the heater hose from the teeth. I clamped the heater hose -- each side but still some coolant leak but only maybe a cup. No biggy. BTW easier if you remove the left side hose first and then the right. I actually, even unscrewed the valve from the bracket to have a little more moving room in removing the right hose. You need a long flat screw driver to help push out the hose from the old valve. Added some coolant back to the reservoir and test drove. All looks good and dry so far.

I examined the new and old valve side by side and its identical. One thing I noticed, as this is a simple ball valve, the ball inside is actually only shuts the left side of the valve. The right side still has some opening on the ball. I slowly turn the top lever ( where the cable attaches) to see how far before you can see a small opening and its atleast 2 mm. This means that even if there is a little play (when turning the heater knob to cold) on the cable its actually fully shut already seen from the left inlet. When I turned my heat/cold knob to see the cable function moving the valve I can push maybe a mm more to full shut but the reading already displeays 60 degrees. It was getting cold just as fast as before so NO worries. For a sec I though I need to tweek the cable from the inside like some other folks did but NO need in my case. Hopes this helps. I did a couple of high rev on heat and then on cold to try and flush out the air bubbles in the system. We'll see if further burping is needed. Didn't hear any gurlgling from the inside though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
Had been smelling that sweet coolant smell since I got this van 2 years ago. Never saw any new wet leak from radiator area though there were some green old stain on about 4 rows on the fins. Anyway, now that I have this replaced this obvious leaky valve, I can now monitor the condition of the radiator if any new leak will come out since the system should now be totally sealed. I actually rented a radiator pressure tool yesterday before the install and checked my radiator cap. The cap tested fine on 14- 18 psi no lowering of the pressure however, the radiator was quickly loosing pressure due to the valve leak. NO leak on radiator was found though when pressure between 14- 18 was applied. Now we'll wait and see if it happen or not on the rad. Hopefully not yet anyways.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top