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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks. So we’re about to make a big road trip so I’m taking stock of where I’m sitting on all the services on our 2014 EX-L. Coolant reservoir is a little below the Min line when hot so I’m thinking of getting some Honda Type 2 fluid to top that off and as I was thinking of that and going through my records, I saw that last summer we had a 90k service done at the Honda dealership where they do the timing belt, water pump, etc. With the water pump, they charged me $20 for type 2 coolant so I was wondering....is that like having a flush and I’m reset on the coolant mileage limit (BTW...what IS the coolant service schedule?) or was that just to top off as required with the water pump change? A month later the cooling fan motors failed and there was a top off associated with that too. There was no charge for coolant on that receipt just a note that they had topped it off after replacing fan motors. Guess I’m wondering if I need a flush anyway and should do that before the big trip? We’re at 98k miles right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I think I may have answered myself partially. I found this maintenance schedule on Kelly Blue Book for the 90k service which shows coolant change. But I’m still skeptical because...shouldn’t it be more than $20 for coolant for a whole flush? Is that enough fluid for them to have done a flush? I’m thinking no but I’ve never done a DIY flush so I have no clue how much is in the system.
 

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You never know for sure unless you do it yourself but coolant service should have been included in the timing belt service at a dealership.

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For the coolant only (with no separate labor charge), $20 could be right for a flush (near-complete fluid change). At least a partial drain of coolant is needed to change the water pump, which is typically done when doing a TB job.

So I would not be concerned about needing a coolant flush.

But I would be concerned about needing to top it up. It should hardly ever need that. And BTW, coolant should be checked when it is cold. When cold, it should be betwen the MIN and MAX / FULL lines. I fill to the MAX line. It of course goes above that when warm, but should not overflow the reservoir.

There may be a leak. If you are willing to DIY, you could rent (for free) a pressure tester from PepBoys to help track down the leak. Short of that, you can look for traces of a coolant leak in the engine bay, which will be white spots from the dried coolant residue.
 

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While the coolant is usually changed with a 105k (not 90k) along with the timing belt and water pump, the actual service interval is 120k. After that is supposedly another 60k, but almost everyone just waits until the second timing belt change. I would not worry about this at all. I have had a couple of Odysseys well into their second 100k and never ever had one overheat. If you want to lavish extra care on an Odyssey, replace the transmission fluid more often. Let us know what you have had done in that regard and we can tell you if you're behind.

By the way, just because they only charged you for a single gallon, does not mean they didn't actually replace it all. Dealers are often a mess when it come to billing and such. That invoice was compiled by the service writer, not the mechanic. I bet a single gallon is normal for most of the cars they service and he just left the second gallon off. Another example: my wife would ask to have the wiper blades replaced and several times they would do it and the blades would be left off the invoice.
 

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A little below the min line probably means it was not fully burped during that timing belt service. I would not be looking for a leak unless it drops again. Let's not freak him out just before a trip guys.
 

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Yea the timing belt service at the dealership should include the coolant service. They probably spilled a gallon of coolant while doing the job and charged you extra for it :)

I have had to top of my coolant a few times in my van in the 8 years I've had it. Not sure if it evaporated or what, definitely not a leak though. Just noticed a few times it was closer to the min mark than the max mark, meaning it dropped an inch or so over many years.

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When the water pump comes off it pretty much drains all the coolant. Flushes are usually not required, and not recommended, but drain and fills are. I do mine at the timing belt/water pump change and again when the maintenance minder recommends. Probably overkill but it keeps the system nice and clean.
 

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Best to use the Honda fluid but I've used the Pentosin Blue, Zerex Blue, and Aisin Blue when I can't get the Honda stuff. Definitely don't put anything else in it.
 

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When the water pump comes off it pretty much drains all the coolant. Flushes are usually not required, and not recommended, but drain and fills are. I do mine at the timing belt/water pump change and again when the maintenance minder recommends. Probably overkill but it keeps the system nice and clean.
when I did my water pump and thermostat only need a jug to top it up to full.
did the messy method, just opened the water pump and let er go.

would you know roughly what the capacity of the full system including the rear heater?
 

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If I recall, it's just shy of two gallons. I usually drain the radiator, then the block, then pull the water pump and thermostat. For just a coolant change I drain the radiator and the block. It's usually a gallon and a half or so to refill.
 

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If I recall, it's just shy of two gallons. I usually drain the radiator, then the block, then pull the water pump and thermostat. For just a coolant change I drain the radiator and the block. It's usually a gallon and a half or so to refill.
makes sense... so basically I got half a fluid change draining the block, minus the rad and two heater cores and lines in between.

thanks for the reply...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks all. We are in Florida so it operates in a lot of heat and air conditioning is always running. All that to say...I’ve made a strong effort to keep the garage clear so that the wife can pull in...especially during the rainy season. No easy feat in Florida where we have no basements. Overhead garage racks are a must. Ok...anyway that to say that I haven’t seen any coolant on the garage floor, in the engine compartment, nor had any coolant smell. So I have no reason to suspect a leak. I think they just didn’t top it off enough when the cooling fans were replaced. Which, by the way, is the only time I’ve ever had the vehicle run hot and gotten a coolant smell. Another symptom was that it would suddenly get hot in the cabin as the air conditioner would cycle itself off to protect the condenser since the condenser fan was out. Not sure which fan failed first but the remaining fan would also run for a LONG time after the engine was turned off. Diagnosis was that the remaining fan was working overtime by itself and then quit the day I brought it in so they both needed to be replaced. Dealer stated that they should be done in pairs anyway. 🤷‍♂️ Anyway thanks for the input and I think I’m just going to get my hands on some Honda fluid, top it off, keep an eye on it, and worry about a drain and fill in almost another 100k I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
egads, I forgot to respond to your comment about the transmission fluid. Yes, I’m starting to figure out that frequent changes are better. That too takes a beating in the Florida heat. It was looking like engine oil a little while back so I again went through my records to see what we had done at the dealership and educating myself to do it myself. I came across a Honda service bulletin relating to doing a complete fluid exchange because of an issue that they have since fixed I believe. But it was helpful because it was an official Honda document describing their preferred method for a “flush” which is actually a drain and fill times 3 with a short drive in between. So...that took me a LOT of fluid but I did it because all I could ever find in my records was them doing a drain and fill x 1. I could tell by the amount of fluid charged. It has definitely been shifting smoother since. It was beginning to get rather jerky before that. I imagine what I did doesn’t need to be done that often and you’re talking about doing a drain and fill x 1 more often? How often do you recommend? The heat down here must be really tough on that fluid because it’s only been a couple months and maybe 4 or 5k miles and it’s already not looking quite as pink anymore. Sure is a thin fluid to begin with. My Chevy Impala has bright red thick fluid. Much easier to see the coloration.
 

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egads, I forgot to respond to your comment about the transmission fluid. Yes, I’m starting to figure out that frequent changes are better. That too takes a beating in the Florida heat. It was looking like engine oil a little while back so I again went through my records to see what we had done at the dealership and educating myself to do it myself. I came across a Honda service bulletin relating to doing a complete fluid exchange because of an issue that they have since fixed I believe. But it was helpful because it was an official Honda document describing their preferred method for a “flush” which is actually a drain and fill times 3 with a short drive in between. So...that took me a LOT of fluid but I did it because all I could ever find in my records was them doing a drain and fill x 1. I could tell by the amount of fluid charged. It has definitely been shifting smoother since. It was beginning to get rather jerky before that. I imagine what I did doesn’t need to be done that often and you’re talking about doing a drain and fill x 1 more often? How often do you recommend? The heat down here must be really tough on that fluid because it’s only been a couple months and maybe 4 or 5k miles and it’s already not looking quite as pink anymore. Sure is a thin fluid to begin with. My Chevy Impala has bright red thick fluid. Much easier to see the coloration.
lots of threads (and debates) on this forum for transmission fluid, to summarize stick to amsoil signature series synthetic, valvoline maxlife or honda DW-1.

I do a drain fill of either each year, and have started this year to mix it up between the brands.
pun intended...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got a good deal on a case of Honda DW-1. I’m new to DIY. Just literally did my first oil change on it back in October. In other words...I’m still to chicken $&@$ too mess around with any non-OEM fluids lol. Eventually I’ll get there.
 

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The 3x drain and fill is part of repair procedure, not normal maintenance. The 1x drain and fill is the standard service. On my '12 EX-L, the ATF code pops up in the maintenance minder every 30k. That's all I've done and and I'm at about 150k trouble free miles so far. I can tell a difference in shifting once it's getting close to 30k though and a lot people on here change it more often than that.

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I got a good deal on a case of Honda DW-1. I’m new to DIY. Just literally did my first oil change on it back in October. In other words...I’m still to chicken $&@$ too mess around with any non-OEM fluids lol. Eventually I’ll get there.
awesome.
Its refreshing to see initiative these days thats outside of a smartphone or computer.
Lots of very experienced and helpful folks in this forum for when youre in a jam.
You are in the right place.

did you muzzle that thing yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
DD, thanks for the info. I don’t know how long it had been exactly since the previous 1 x drain and fill at the dealer but I don’t feel bad about doing the 3 x because the fluid was definitely looking pretty lousy and I was definitely feeling a shifting difference. I probably should join the “do the 1 x more often” club because like I said...sure seems to not take that fluid too long to deteriorate around here. Question is “how often is more often”?

Ticket, thanks...you lost me a little on the muzzle comment though. Or was that not meant for me?
 
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