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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
 

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I would have thought $100 would have been plenty to just loosen one bolt.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone on here would be willing to help. I know I would, if you were nearby.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I'm in Columbia, Maryland area. I even went to a gas station shop and offered the same. They just wanted me to do the timing belt replacement there... Not just loosen the bolt.

I told one mechanic that I'd get my small oil leak taken care of there as well. Couldn't tell if it was the pan gasket or somewhere else. I was planning to take a look once the timing belt was off.

Just couldn't justify $1200 or $800 for labor for something that I could do especially on this car...other than taking that bolt off. Hah.
 

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Lisle with impact is my only useful advice. A more powerful impact wrench is what I would try next.

When I was trying to decide whether to buy an electric impact wrench I borrowed a friend's Ryobi, their most powerful one, but it wouldn't budge. Then I used a pneumatic one (not sure how powerful) and it came off easily.

Down here in Texas, it would be $450 in labor for the timing belt and all the other "normal stuff."
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice. I currently don't have access to a more powerful impact. Tried the cheap HF electric impact. Then the Milwaukee M18 1/2". I really thought the Lisle would do it. Pneumatic would be next at the diy shop whenever they decide to open. Just didn't want to buy more things than I ever need it for.

BTW, HF impact didn't even last 10sec. I thought I broke it. It overheated and sounded/smelled pretty dead. I think all they're good for is lug nuts.

I guess I'll start calling around outside my local area. Just didn't want to drive too far.

$450 would be nice. I wouldn't even bother doing it myself. The shops in Bronx, NY can be as low as $300 in labor...just living in (relatively) expensive town I guess.
 

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Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
Sounds like the Milwaukee 1/2 electric 120v might do it. Are there any tool rental places around you? Home Depot? Auto parts store? Or you could buy it from Home Depot, keep it clean, use it , then return it as a duplicate gift. They might just make you take a store credit.
The other way is buy a snap-on breaker bar, use your cheater bar technique and if the bar breaks again snap- on is guaranteed get a replacement and try again.
 

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If you were out here near me in CA, I'd do it for you just for the challenge. Too bad you are not getting helpful offers from the pros out there.

"tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar"

What happened when you did that? If you use a strong enough socket and breaker bar, 3/4" drive if you have that (and could consider buying them if not - can probably get 3/4" breaker bar + 3/4" drive socket [make sure it can fit within the pulley holder tool] with lifetime warranty from Hazard Fraught for less than $50), long enough cheater pipe on there, and it will either give or something will break. If every tool in the chain is strong enough then the bolt will either come loose or break - hopefully not the latter.

An alternative that has a similar effect is to use a torque multiplier. I have one of those, but an unbreakable (3/4") breaker bar and sufficiently long pipe can easily get you 1000+ ft-lbs of torque.

And in all of your attempts, were you using the pulley-holding tool firmly braced against the car somehow? The firmer anchoring you can get of that, the better the effect of impact or anything else will be. And of course that pulley holder + 1/2" breaker bar will be carrying the load too, so they will hopefully not be the weak links in the chain.
 

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You need a decent impact. Hope you didn’t damage your crank seal and/or harmonic balancer with the heat. I live a couple hours away from you. If you have no other alternative, bop on up and I will try with my Aircat 1150. That and the Lisle socket zipped mine off in a split second.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
"tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater

What happened when you did that? If you use a strong enough socket and breaker bar, 3/4" drive if you have that (and could consider buying them if not - can probably get 3/4" breaker bar + 3/4" drive socket [make sure it can fit within the pulley holder tool] with lifetime warranty from Hazard Fraught for less than $50), long enough cheater pipe on there, and it will either give or something will break. If every tool in the chain is strong enough then the bolt will either come loose or break - hopefully not the latter.

An alternative that has a similar effect is to use a torque multiplier. I have one of those, but an unbreakable (3/4") breaker bar and sufficiently long pipe can easily get you 1000+ ft-lbs of torque.

And in all of your attempts, were you using the pulley-holding tool firmly braced against the car somehow? The firmer anchoring you can get of that, the better the effect of impact or anything else will be. And of course that pulley holder + 1/2" breaker bar will be carrying the load too, so they will hopefully not be the weak links in the chain.
I braced with pulley holder tool with a 8in bar firmly against the frame (wasn't going anywhere), used 1/2" breaker bar with 5ft cheater bar using 18" jack as pivot brace. Nothing. That's when the breaker bar broke. Went out to get another one after that.

I didn't try the 3/4" breaker or torque multiplier. I saw the torque multiplier, but at this rate, I'd be buying so many tools.

I tend to be on the conservative side, so even when I used heat with propane, it wasn't extremely hot. I probably watched about a dozen videos and read more forum threads than necessary to make sure I'm not screwing up somewhere.

I'm just hoping the last shop who did the 'timing belt inspection' according to carfax didn't do a silly thing like use an impact wrench to put the bolt back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
You need a decent impact. Hope you didn’t damage your crank seal and/or harmonic balancer with the heat. I live a couple hours away from you. If you have no other alternative, bop on up and I will try with my Aircat 1150. That and the Lisle socket zipped mine off in a split second.
I just might if I can't find anyone with air tools strong enough....

Will report back later this week when I find a shop/someone who's willing to take a crack at it.

After total of 8 hours of just bolt work, I've thrown in the towel. I wouldn't feel that bad even if I end up driving until TB breaks for the price I paid for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Found a shop woo-hoo. Hail Mary on shop in some real random location.

Must be my lucky day. They GOT THIS THING OFF. Took 40min.

I heard them cranking for like 20min. He said oxyacetalene torch, got it cherry red before cranking again.

The bolt will definitely be replaced. 3 days...he also said that this is the worst he's ever done to that bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You need a decent impact. Hope you didn’t damage your crank seal and/or harmonic balancer with the heat. I live a couple hours away from you. If you have no other alternative, bop on up and I will try with my Aircat 1150. That and the Lisle socket zipped mine off in a split second.
Hm...so just wondering the chances of the seals being damaged by heat. I can't imagine the heat transferring that quickly/efficiently to the seals. I've never heard/read of the seals being damaged yet.
 

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Hm...so just wondering the chances of the seals being damaged by heat. I can't imagine the heat transferring that quickly/efficiently to the seals. I've never heard/read of the seals being damaged yet.
I’ve never heard of heat damaging seals before...
 

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Glad you got it off. Great job. I could tell from your first posts that you had already done all the normal stuff and this would be an extreme case.

I would replace the crank shaft front seal. There is a chance that would have been damaged by the heat. I did not need any heat on mine, but replaced that seal anyway when doing the timing belt job on my 2011 LX. You don't want to take a chance on a leak there, otherwise the whole job needs to be repeated, practically. Replacing that seal is a not uncommon addition to the TB service, so with the torch heat, I think it's reasonable to add that in there. I could not find the Honda number for that part in my notes, but I used the FEL-PRO TCS46026 kit, which included that seal and several other random seals that may or may not work on my car. No comment on whether that part is the same for your car.

On your report on breaking your 1/2" breaker bar - that's exactly the right answer. (y)That means you were doing it right. Hopefully you had a lifetime warranty on whatever broke. If not, it can go on your wall of fame along with the crank bolt. :ROFLMAO: Pushing hard enough until the bolt either gives or the tool breaks. I think a 3/4" would have been a different story if you had decided to take that step. But you ended up getting it solved a different way, so that is great.

And great story on the pros getting it off. To make them break a sweat on this really is an accomplishment. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Can't believe the starter bump method didn't work, must have been a real tough bolt. What did the shop charge you to break it loose?
 
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