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I've said it before and I'll say it again. 3/4" drive is the way to go. The Lisle socket is great, but it requires an impact gun with enough power to make it effective. I am personally 0-6 with the Lisle socket, but I don't have a good enough impact for it. I've done it with 1/2" drive and it can work, but there is so much deflection in the entire system that you wonder if something is going to slip or break and you are going to wake up in a pool of blood. You still need to apply a large amount of torque, but the 3/4" drive is completely drama free. It is night and day compared to the 1/2" drive setup. I wouldn't waste my time with any of that Chinese junk from HF. I was able to put a collection of US made 3/4" drive tools consisting of a breaker bar, all the extensions I would need, and a nice selection of sockets for around $100. If all you wanted were tools for this job it would probably be around $70. I've never used heat. Never used penetrating oil of any kind. Just wedge the crank holder in place, put the tools together and go to town and I've had a few bolts that were pretty tough, but nothing I couldn't break free.

You mentioned there was a timing belt inspection done. You can remove the top cam gear covers and inspect the timing belt from there. That would allow you to view the condition of the belt and also observe if the timing marks are all in the correct place. You should also be able to see if the tensioner is weeping or leaking, but it is difficult.
 

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Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
I just did mine for the first time ever. I used the Lisle socket with the Milwaukee Cordless impact gun.
Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
I used the Milwaukee Cordless Impact. Model 2767 1400 ft lb break away torque with the Lisle socket. Worked like a charm, no heat necessary. I did mine for the first time with 140,000 miles
 

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Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
Check out these heavy duty sockets. I wish I had used one! My friend and I had a heck of a time taking off the bolt off my 2002 Odyssey. Amazon.com : hoda 19 mm socket
 

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If the starter bump didn’t do it for you, boy~ that’s another level of ceased!
I broke a breaker bar, 1/2 ratchet. Penetration oil. torched. Lisle socket. Tried my neighbors Milwaukee impact, went to HF and bought the earthquake impact but nothing worked and almost gave up till one snap of engine bump.
161325
 

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I've had the starter bump trick not work a couple of times and I don't even bother with it anymore on Hondas. You know what never fails to work? 3/4" drive tools. You are probably right at the limit for 1/2" drive tools (even quality tools) on some of the tougher bolts as you discovered. There is only so much cross section and tensile strength available.
 

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2016 Touring Elite
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Do you know you need a special tool to remove the Crank Pulley Bolt on Honda. Google it. You cannot use a impact socket.
This rule is only for tightening the bolt. Removing it with an impact is no problem.

-Charlie
 

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Lisle with impact is my only useful advice. A more powerful impact wrench is what I would try next.

When I was trying to decide whether to buy an electric impact wrench I borrowed a friend's Ryobi, their most powerful one, but it wouldn't budge. Then I used a pneumatic one (not sure how powerful) and it came off easily.
I am going to guess the Ryobi impact wrench you tried is the 300ft/lb one. This past fall they introduced a new one that goes up to 600 ft/lb . I've held off on buying one till they released this one. I already have a bunch of Ryobi tools and battery, which is why I am sticking with Ryobi. If I still have my Odyssey when it hits the right mileage, I am at 92k right now, will buy that tool and the Lisle socket.
 

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Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
. YOU NEED THE "MILWAUKEE 2767-20" cordless impact gun. Takes off everything! 1450lbs. of torque! Without battery...$249. You can find it a lot cheaper on sale. Check out YouTube if you don't believe me. 😉
 

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My corded dewalt impact didn't work.
Pneumatic HF earthquake xt with 1/4 regular fittings didn't work.
Changed all fittings on hose and gun to high flow fittings, didn't work.
Finally bypassed the regulator and it came off...
 

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2000 Odyssey LX and 1997 Cr-v
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Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum. I recently bought a 2012 EX-L w/152k miles. It was in really good condition and ran smoothly. First thing that went on was the VCM Muzzler. Side mount is pretty destroyed, so that needs replaced.

Anyways, went to do timing belt change because I'm pretty certain nothing was done even though there was 'timing belt inspection' at 150k.

I lubed this up for the past three days, heated it up several occasions, broke a breaker bar, tried the impact w/Lisle socket, tried to hold it with the pulley holder tool and use a cheater bar, and tonight, the starter bumps. Yup was desperate that I bumped a few times. At this point, I'm done.

The problem now that I face is that shops around me don't want to use the Aisin kit that I bought although they're quoting me with the exact kit with same THK-002 part number. One shop tried to charge me $469 for the kit. All I asked was to loosen the bolt for $100. They kept saying warranty for the parts... I keep telling them that i don't need one. I only got this car because it's better than a car payment. And it's perfectly fine other than the TB tensioner and maybe the ticking time belt.

Any tips on getting mechanics to just loosen the bolt for me? I thought $100 was more than reasonable but maybe not...COVID closed down the DIY shop near me that has mechanics and professional tools for now...
Well honestly no mechanic will do it just for the labor and your parts or tools. Its the same with the dealer: they will prefer to use their tools and parts. Labor wise: every shop charges different: just know that if a shop quotes you on 3 hours for $400.00 do not get upset because if the job takes 3 hours that is their standard hourly rate along with the part. Its just best you pay a professional what they charge for both labor and parts, at least the car will be under warranty through them or him/her. If you buy the part yourself al your going to keep doing is paying for parts and labor. If they recommended getting the part themselves and getting it done then you can either go that route or you can just youtube how to remove the side mount by first using pb blaster not WD40 and spray it constantly for 4 days straight until you get to learn how to remove the side mount yourself. I myself am a mechanic and I speak from experience. At times I don't have the time to even work on my own car's. You can easily get a crankshaft bolt and assembly from www.rockauto.com
 

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Well honestly no mechanic will do it just for the labor and your parts or tools. Its the same with the dealer: they will prefer to use their tools and parts. Labor wise: every shop charges different: just know that if a shop quotes you on 3 hours for $400.00 do not get upset because if the job takes 3 hours that is their standard hourly rate along with the part. Its just best you pay a professional what they charge for both labor and parts, at least the car will be under warranty through them or him/her. If you buy the part yourself al your going to keep doing is paying for parts and labor. If they recommended getting the part themselves and getting it done then you can either go that route or you can just youtube how to remove the side mount by first using pb blaster not WD40 and spray it constantly for 4 days straight until you get to learn how to remove the side mount yourself. I myself am a mechanic and I speak from experience. At times I don't have the time to even work on my own car's. You can easily get a crankshaft bolt and assembly from www.rockauto.com
Well.. this kinda defeats the purpose of asking for advice on this forum, doesn’t it?
 
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