[djschiff]

Noticed today that my cruise control will no longer engage / set.

Coincidentally (or maybe not), we recently had a brake controller installed by an RV Dealership. The wiring appears to be correct ... and the problem with the cruise control remains even after I pull the quick connect from the brake controller. So perhaps that's all kosher, but even with these two pieces of evidence ... I'm suspicious.

No surprise that the RV dealership says take it to Honda. And the Honda dealership says one of the first things they'll do is "remove" the controller. I hope they mean pull the connector, not remove the wiring?!! The towing package was dealer installed, but of course Honda only includes a 4 pin harness, and won't touch a brake controller. Yet they require brakes on trailers over what, 2k lbs?!

As I say, it may not be related. In the meantime it's amusing that I'm not allowed to add a controller, they won't assist with installation of a controller, yet they require a controller!

 

[richpor]

Noticed today that my cruise control will no longer engage / set.

Coincidentally (or maybe not), we recently had a brake controller installed by an RV Dealership. The wiring appears to be correct ... and the problem with the cruise control remains even after I pull the quick connect from the brake controller. So perhaps that's all kosher, but even with these two pieces of evidence ... I'm suspicious.

No surprise that the RV dealership says take it to Honda. And the Honda dealership says one of the first things they'll do is "remove" the controller. I hope they mean pull the connector, not remove the wiring?!! The towing package was dealer installed, but of course Honda only includes a 4 pin harness, and won't touch a brake controller. Yet they require brakes on trailers over what, 2k lbs?!



As I say, it may not be related. In the meantime it's amusing that I'm not allowed to add a controller, they won't assist with installation of a controller, yet they require a controller!

Seriously, i have been doing aftermarket accessories for years, the RV shop screwed it up. Check the wiring where they. Have tapped into the brake peal switch. They probably tapped the cruise cancel wire and not the brake light wire. Rookie mistake, or perhaps they cut the wire or yanked it fron the socket.

You'll need to pull the lower dash cover and follow the pedal up to the switch assembly. Pray to god that they did not use scotchlocks or "t-taps" they are crap!

Best of luck.

 

[djschiff]

Seriously, i have been doing aftermarket accessories for years, the RV shop screwed it up. Check the wiring where they. Have tapped into the brake peal switch. They probably tapped the cruise cancel wire and not the brake light wire. Rookie mistake, or perhaps they cut the wire or yanked it from the socket.

You'll need to pull the lower dash cover and follow the pedal up to the switch assembly. Pray to God that they did not use scotchlocks or "t-taps" they are crap!

Best of luck.

OK dumb question ... I have checked the "car end" of the quick connect, and verified that whatever wire they tapped into is energized only when the brake pedal is pressed. Does this mean they have the correct wire, or is the cruise cancel wire also energized only when the pedal is pressed?

The other issue I struggle with is, when I disconnect the brake controller by pulling apart the quick connects, my cruise still will not engage. When the wires aren't physically connected to the controller it's tough for me to understand how (regardless of what wire they tapped into) their wiring would affect anything. Well, unless the cruise cancel wire is "de-engergized" when the brake pedal is pressed *and* instead of using that wire they cut it.

Conceptually I feel like I'm missing something.

 

[richpor]

OK dumb question ... I have checked the "car end" of the quick connect, and verified that whatever wire they tapped into is energized only when the brake pedal is pressed. Does this mean they have the correct wire, or is the cruise cancel wire also energized only when the pedal is pressed?

The other issue I struggle with is, when I disconnect the brake controller by pulling apart the quick connects, my cruise still will not engage. When the wires aren't physically connected to the controller it's tough for me to understand how (regardless of what wire they tapped into) their wiring would affect anything. Well, unless the cruise cancel wire is "de-engergized" when the brake pedal is pressed *and* instead of using that wire they cut it.

Conceptually I feel like I'm missing something.

here is the wiring form the ridgeline, could not find the ody, but should be very close

Brake Lights LIGHT BLUE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL .

Check to see the color of wire they tapped into.. they may have fried your cruise computer..In theroy, pulling the quick connect should work, unless they have shorted something out, or perhaps they tapped both the cruise and brake wires thining there were two brake circuits and now the cruise cxl wire is shorted to the brake light light wire...not a good situation..

 

[djschiff]

No harm, no foul, or so it would seem. As expected, Honda's first question was "who installed your brake controller." The resolution was simply a blown fuse, but with a twist.

I was told that a 7.5A fuse had been placed in a 15A circuit. No surprise then that it blew. But did the RV dealership put it there? Did Honda, at the factory? I don't know, but I didn't do it, and the vehicle is new enough that nobody else has had the keys!

I don't see any evidence of an "add a tap" fuse. And the brake controller worked even with the blown fuse ... so why would the RV dealership randomly swap out a fuse on an unrelated circuit? Doesn't make sense. Leaning towards a Honda error, but who knows? For now all is well.

 

[richpor]

No harm, no foul, or so it would seem. As expected, Honda's first question was "who installed your brake controller." The resolution was simply a blown fuse, but with a twist.

I was told that a 7.5A fuse had been placed in a 15A circuit. No surprise then that it blew. But did the RV dealership put it there? Did Honda, at the factory? I don't know, but I didn't do it, and the vehicle is new enough that nobody else has had the keys!

I don't see any evidence of an "add a tap" fuse. And the brake controller worked even with the blown fuse ... so why would the RV dealership randomly swap out a fuse on an unrelated circuit? Doesn't make sense. Leaning towards a Honda error, but who knows? For now all is well.

My guess is that the trailer shop grounded out the cruise cancel wire when testing for the brake wire. They didnt have any fuses, or blew a few figuring out the rightbrake wire...

Glad its fixed and it was such a minor fix!!!