If you have replaced any FWD CV boot before, it is not hard, you just have to follow the standard procedure.
Most FWD CV joints are very similar in design, it is locked in by some circlips and you need a tap (or a punch tool) to tap the joint loose.
I am glad you caught this torn rubber boot early because once dirt enters the CV joint, the damage is usually irreversible.
This pic shows the control arm's balljoint nut, once that is removed and the balljoint separated from the steering knuckle, the driveshaft can come out:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=562726
NOTE: Do NOT damage the rubber boot! Best is the use a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Tool, which allows you to separate the balljoint
without damaging the rubber boot:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
------------
The axle nut is always tough. You need
1/2" breaker bar and a
4-foot section of black iron pipe (available at Home Depot). Do not remove the 36-mm nut completely, leave it flushed with the spline shaft, so you can tap it with a hammer to push the axle shaft inward, once the control arm balljoint is separated from the steering knuckle.
I'd check the other side for any damage and since you are already doing the job, you might want to address the opposite side as well.
For most import (European and Japanese) vehicles, the
axle nut is 36-mm in size.
I wrote one for my 1998 Volvo V70 so you can have an idea what is involved:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29716
This thread has info on how to remove the front brake caliper, which should be removed to allow the steering knuckle to move more freely to release the axle splines:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85532
This DIY is from another Honda Model but again the idea is the same:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2706378