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Garage?? Lucky people!

Hey Hodna, did they load the transmission software update?
 

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Speaking of the BMS.

This system is not intuitively self customizing similar to the TCU customization programming routine. The BMS does not collect vehicle usage and driving condition data to create a custom charging profile based on the way the vehicle is utilized.

As another forum member has written, its best if you buy a smart battery maintenance charger that specifically has a charging cycle for an AGM battery due to their own unique capacitive reactance, resistance, and total charge capacity.

Once you adopt this routine and very much needed type of charger, you will most likely see battery life double.
However. Most people will never take the tIme to plug in the charger even if they permanently installed a small appropriately sized unit under the hood. There’s just too many other things people have to deal with living life.

This is just one more example of a deficiency in the design of a Honda product that is known by Honda. It lowers fuel use and increases fleet mileage numbers. It also lowers life expectancy if batteries. But guess who pays for new AGM batteries ?
 

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My van is normally outside. The wife parks her CRV in the garage. She likes to pull rank on me :)!
Those pesky commanders... just tell her she will need to cook once in a while as your peeling the potatoes (but take care to say it very quitely) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
gsba
Yes, the door latches were fixed, audio software updated (now shows the correct date and time instead of being locked on April 12, 2000 for the past three years - how the hell did that pass the factory inspection??). The transmission software was updated and seems smooth so far. I only drove it home for 15 minutes. Time will tell.

Triaque
Great info, thanks. Just once, I would like to see a car company offer a decent vehicle without all this unnecessary electronic crap on it. "Consumer demand" be damned. We don't need the back of our minivans to act as a "parent substitute" by having it babysit our kids and grandkids with yet more electronics and screen time. We don't need a sophisticated monitoring system to allow us to watch kids in the rear cabin. That's why we were given ears! We don't need all the other electronic bells and whistles that require a very expensive battery and its associated devices that will need replacing 10 times more often than the good old acid core battery of the basic cars we used to be able to buy. Technology has spun out of control. Carmakers have started acting like idiotic governments, that is, they keep giving us crap we don't need. I'm really starting to believe that anyone who owns a modern-day car needs to invest in an extended warranty. One medium level failure can cost you a couple of thousand dollars.

DJVAN
Good one! And yes, when I make comments like that in the kitchen, I'll be sure to have a firm grip on the sharper kitchen implements. I already know how to sleep with one eye open :LOL:!
 

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Good info, Smufguy. Sounds like the system hardware is fine. Is the BMS software-based?

I agree that the nominal voltage of 11.5 volts should satisfy the threshold. The critical point is amperage. I had forgotten about that. None of this explains why at a mere 22,000 km, my car won't start. In 50 years of driving, I've never had a starting problem, at any temperature, that early in the batterie's life. Something is amiss. I'll let you know what the tech says or what he finds. Thanks.
A battery at 11.5 volts is around 10% capacity. I know that people are saying it is not a charging issue, but it is. Why are a plethora of 1 and 2 year old batteries failing? Is it the original battery or is it the charge cycle? Sure, easier to blame the battery yet when replacement batteries are failing what do you then blame? The battery again?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
A battery at 11.5 volts is around 10% capacity. I know that people are saying it is not a charging issue, but it is. Why are a plethora of 1 and 2 year old batteries failing? Is it the original battery or is it the charge cycle? Sure, easier to blame the battery yet when replacement batteries are failing what do you then blame? The battery again?
Excellent point. At least if they can blame the battery, they can also make a boatload of profit by selling us a new one.
 

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Good info, Smufguy. Sounds like the system hardware is fine. Is the BMS software-based?

I agree that the nominal voltage of 11.5 volts should satisfy the threshold. The critical point is amperage. I had forgotten about that. None of this explains why at a mere 22,000 km, my car won't start. In 50 years of driving, I've never had a starting problem, at any temperature, that early in the batterie's life. Something is amiss. I'll let you know what the tech says or what he finds. Thanks.
I'm having the same issue. My 2019 has been towed in 3 times this winter because it won't start. I've had it boosted all 3 times and it will run fine for another 3 weeks then die again. The dealership can't figure it out. Please post what your dealership says is the issue.
 

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You must have something like a high resistance short bleeding off your power or the computer had something running that shouldn't be. The young mechanics at the dealer are mostly plug and play and can't troubleshoot. Look around for a company that specializes in troubleshooting vehicle electrical systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm having the same issue. My 2019 has been towed in 3 times this winter because it won't start. I've had it boosted all 3 times and it will run fine for another 3 weeks then die again. The dealership can't figure it out. Please post what your dealership says is the issue.
The dealer performed a scan to see if there was an error code related to the battery. There was none. They charged up the battery because it was low. A new battery is about $450 installed. Under the terms of my warranty, Honda will only pay one half, providing the computer displays a code. Without the magic code, I pay it all.

John makes an interesting point about young mechanics. The computer is their God, other than the people who sign their paychecks. If the computer says nothing is wrong, then nothing is wrong except the customer of course! Problem is, this sort of thinking is only great in principle. Wow, we no longer need to troubleshoot because the computer will do all that for us! The downside is, a lot of "grey area" issues are missed because mechanics are all forbidden to think outside the box - the "box" in this metaphor being the "computer."

This philosophy is insane! It's like saying a store got robbed of $1,000 but robbery is illegal, therefore, there was no robbery. An employee must have just "lost" the money!!
 

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I'm having the same issue. My 2019 has been towed in 3 times this winter because it won't start. I've had it boosted all 3 times and it will run fine for another 3 weeks then die again. The dealership can't figure it out. Please post what your dealership says is the issue.
Sounds like it might have a charging deficit The battery gradually runs down for 3 weeks, after which it has insufficient voltage to start the engine.

Get a voltmeter that plugs into the 12V power outlet. Record the voltage at each startup.

If it's consistent every day at about 12.5V before engine startup, or above 14V after (sorry, I don't know when the 12V outlet powers up with the push-button ignition switch), the problem is intermittent. If it gradually drops until the engine won't start, the problem is solid.

Your observations from this test won't identify the problem, but they may help the dealer tech to narrow the search for the problem.

Many techs are mechanically-inclined and highly competent in that area. However, electrical/computer issues require a completely different problem-solving process than mechanical training provides. (For example, my BIL was a dealer tech. He relished an engine rebuild, but dreaded an electronic problem.) Dealers should hire at least one computer science grad in the service department just for electronic issues like yours.

Is your average trip of a short duration? If so, it's possible that the time driving (and charging the battery) is insufficient to fully charge the battery, especially in winter when power-hungry heating devices (e.g. seat heaters, etc.) are frequently used.
 

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Sounds like it might have a charging deficit The battery gradually runs down for 3 weeks, after which it has insufficient voltage to start the engine.

Get a voltmeter that plugs into the 12V power outlet. Record the voltage at each startup.

If it's consistent every day at about 12.5V before engine startup, or above 14V after (sorry, I don't know when the 12V outlet powers up with the push-button ignition switch), the problem is intermittent. If it gradually drops until the engine won't start, the problem is solid.

Your observations from this test won't identify the problem, but they may help the dealer tech to narrow the search for the problem.

Many techs are mechanically-inclined and highly competent in that area. However, electrical/computer issues require a completely different problem-solving process than mechanical training provides. (For example, my BIL was a dealer tech. He relished an engine rebuild, but dreaded an electronic problem.) Dealers should hire at least one computer science grad in the service department just for electronic issues like yours.

Is your average trip of a short duration? If so, it's possible that the time driving (and charging the battery) is insufficient to fully charge the battery, especially in winter when power-hungry heating devices (e.g. seat heaters, etc.) are frequently used.
Thx I'm going to start recording the numbers daily. I drive 200-300kms a day every day. Alternator was replaced last month yet the battery still drained. Today I just got it back with a new starter.
 

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The battery in these vans as most everyone on this forum knows are AGM or Absorption Glass(fiberglass) Mat style batteries.

The AGM battery requires a LOOOOOONG deep saturation charge cycle. Our vans are rarely ever driven long enough to deep charge and condition the lead plate material inside the battery.

Barring a parasitic drain......If owners will use a “smart charger” designed for the AGM charging cycle.....this will solve most all the battery issues, except those vans with electronic parasitic loads above what the design specification allows.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Barring a parasitic drain......If owners will use a “smart charger” designed for the AGM charging cycle.....this will solve most all the battery issues, except those vans with electronic parasitic loads above what the design specification allows.
Great idea, Triaque. Thanks for that. I'm getting used to solving Honda's design issues for them.
 

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I use a CTEK brand smart charger that had an 8-step charging and analysis routine. It’s a battery magician in a box. I had problems with my Odyssey constantly having low battery issues because it sits a lot.

Now that it gets a CTEK charge cycle twice in a row once a week......no more problems at all.
 
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