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There was a program and since the van was one owner I would say likely.
reason I was asking, in case there was some recourse for the OP.

Also, since I like sticking to single owner pre-owned, I always ask for a printout of the service history from the dealer that sold it.
Provided the original owner was diligent in their maintenance schedule, there is always lots of good data in there.

They usually sanitize the personal info of the previous owner, but a worthy mention for those who like more information vs less.
 

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The paint is actually blending fairly well (it's white so that helps) and they have been able to make the clearcoat re-finishing pretty smooth. Hoping they can get it right on the next go.
Oh, no worries about accident then... The white paint flakes on its own (mostly on roof and rear hatch).

TSB 19-056 - Warranty Extension: Taffeta White Paint (6 Months)
Applies To: 2011-12 Odyssey - All vehicles painted Taffeta White NH-578 - Check the iN VIN status for eligibility
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A19-056.PDF
LinkDeny

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #24
TSB 19-056 - Warranty Extension: Taffeta White Paint (6 Months)
Applies To: 2011-12 Odyssey - All vehicles painted Taffeta White NH-578 - Check the iN VIN status for eligibility
Wow... looks like I just missed it! Oh well. It seems like the dealer will at least make the paint right. Power steering pump looks possible to do on my own, and I'm currently getting quotes for new front struts, which is what they are now saying is the issue. Boot is cracked on one of the front struts and dirt is gettin in. That's what they are saying is the cause of the clicking noise. I got another independent evaluation. Going to get them to either fix that, or pay me what my mechanic will charge to fix it.
 

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We just bought a new-to-us 2011 EX-L from used car inventory at a local Honda dealership. Interior is in great shape and mechanically it seemed to check out. However...

I notice when the vehicle is first turned on, but even sometimes after I've been driving for a while that I get that trademark power steering whine. If it's happening while I'm driving, the sound will sort of match the rise and fall of the RPMs. I've also got a knocking/clicking sound occasionally when I turn the wheel (typically when turning into driveway entrances, etc). And I don't know if it's related or not, but the steering wheel is still not centered when I'm driving straight down the road.

The Honda certified tech looked over all this, but he just said that the whining noise was indeed the power steering but that it was "just the way these models are." He told me he lubed up the strut but said "there is no safety issue" and "I don't think the dealer will fix this for you." He also did an alignment, but the steering wheel is still not straight.

Are these acceptable answers? I'm picking my battles, because I also didn't realize until after I brought it home (it was super bright on the day of purchase) that lots of the vehicle was repainted. I'm currently working with them to get all that fixed.

Should I accept these mechanical woes in order to get the "more important" stuff accomplished?

Thanks!
That is TOTAL Dealer BS! The technician is following management orders.
I stopped going to my dealer when they said I had to live with a low-speed turning noise when it was just six years old with 70,000 miles. I Googled to see if others had a similar problem - it was rear brakes. I politely asked to speak to the Manager/ said “IF I want to trade this in (I didn’t) you would of course address the source of this noise? If it happened during a test drive, you would, wouldn’t you Sir?” He asked me to hold -got back on a minute later and quoted me “half price” to make the repair. I won’t buy another Honda from that dealer. A power steering whine is -not- normal. You should ask to speak with Management.
 

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I can't make out much power steering noise from you video, but I'd second the suggestion on having the pump o-rings replaced and flushing the system. Leaking o-rings allow the pump to suck in air resulting aerated fluid, and lots of whining.

The clunk while turning sounds like it could be sway bar end links. Pretty common on these vans.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I can't make out much power steering noise from you video, but I'd second the suggestion on having the pump o-rings replaced and flushing the system. Leaking o-rings allow the pump to suck in air resulting aerated fluid, and lots of whining.

The clunk while turning sounds like it could be sway bar end links. Pretty common on these vans.
Yeah, we got an "independent" evaluation from another Honda dealership. I just went in cold turkey like a helpless new customer looking for Honda to save me with their fix everything all the time at full price mentality. While they did quote me for replacing both front struts and a new power steering pump at $2,500, they did confirm that they think it's the strut. They said the boot is cracked and showed me a picture and said that dirt is getting into the boot and causing the clicking noise. It seemed a bit far fetch for what is turning out to be a lot of constant noise right now when I turn (I'll try to get another video tonight). But, it's consistent with what the other dealer was saying. No one has said they think it's CV joints or sway bars or anything. My personal mechanic quoted me $600 to do both struts. Much better.

Honda also said that nothing was leaking but likely I just need to replace the o-rings and pump at some point, but nothing imminent. I'm okay walking from that battle and just doing that myself later, but I'm going to ask Honda to at least pay for the strut that is broken, even if I have to pay for the other one to even it out. I'm going to pick my battles and get what I can get.
 

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Conversely my 07 exl I bought from a honda dealer 3 years ago had carfax listed 2 collision damage events. 1 at the rear. Ive never found evidence of it even when I removed the rear bumper. The front, well it looked intact but later found lots of general damage, where replacing those plug clips is useless. Parts of the bumper, under cover, etc, hanging very loose. An hour with a drill and zip ties fixed it all. Including a couple holes in the transmission case to support the rear of that undercover.
Then someone in an suv backed into me at the post office and ran off, putting a big dent in the rear hatch. If I ever fix it carfax wont know.
 

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Mine had a clean carfax as well.
There was a minor "unreported" front collision on mine, that was causing the door to lightly rub on the fender edge, I had to loosen the fender bolts and re-align it.

a lot of dealerships shine up cars with silicone based cleaners, so the car really shines at delivery.
once that stuff washes off you see all the imperfections, and clearcoat scratches.
especially on darker vehicles, Honda pulled that trick on me with my black odyssey.

if they are willing, get them to high speed polish the roof and other areas that appear to be resprayed.
Got a lot of crap out of my paint doing that, but it is 8 years old, and some things just don't buff out!
LOL, they also have a color matched paint they use on most of the interior. The initial pictures of mine I saw on the website showed a lot of wear on the seats and armrests. When I saw it in person everything was pristine.
When i got it home it was obvious the whole interior had some kind of colored coating. In 3 months everywhere you had been touching looked worn. After a year all the vinyl on armrests etc are shredded.
Whatever they used I still think its a good thing as long as you dont fool yourself into thinking its going to last as long as new upholstery.
For them it closes the sale at a price in their favor and I imagine they have to pay a skilled person good money to apply it.
(used to be in the used office furniture business. Sometimes we got high end casegoods like from lawyers offices that had significant movers damage. Talking about desk and credenza sets like a brand called monte verde that started at $12k new up to $20k or more. We could do minor repairs but had a guy we used he could take a desk that looked like youd kicked it down a flight of stairs make it look new. He was truly an artist, you dont just take a box of brown crayons and start doing that. He wasnt cheap but it was worth it when we needed him. Untouched we'd be lucky to get $1200 for that set. We paid him $300 and sold it in a day for $4k.)

So when these dealers spruce up a car whether its inside or outside I highly doubt it was done by a flunkie they employ for $10 an hour. Some of these pros are real good and do things it takes many years to learn.
 

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Yeah, we got an "independent" evaluation from another Honda dealership. I just went in cold turkey like a helpless new customer looking for Honda to save me with their fix everything all the time at full price mentality. While they did quote me for replacing both front struts and a new power steering pump at $2,500, they did confirm that they think it's the strut. They said the boot is cracked and showed me a picture and said that dirt is getting into the boot and causing the clicking noise. It seemed a bit far fetch for what is turning out to be a lot of constant noise right now when I turn (I'll try to get another video tonight). But, it's consistent with what the other dealer was saying. No one has said they think it's CV joints or sway bars or anything. My personal mechanic quoted me $600 to do both struts. Much better.

Honda also said that nothing was leaking but likely I just need to replace the o-rings and pump at some point, but nothing imminent. I'm okay walking from that battle and just doing that myself later, but I'm going to ask Honda to at least pay for the strut that is broken, even if I have to pay for the other one to even it out. I'm going to pick my battles and get what I can get.
replacing both front struts and a new power steering pump at $2,500
WOW
600 bux in parts and 1900 in labor/alignment?
you can definitely do better.

Picked the only listed non re-manufactured ps pump on rockauto which was the most expensive, don't suggest anything from Car Done BTW.
Go with dealer for the ps pump if its comparably priced. The legends around here would know whats the best brand.

155422
 

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LOL, they also have a color matched paint they use on most of the interior. The initial pictures of mine I saw on the website showed a lot of wear on the seats and armrests. When I saw it in person everything was pristine.
When i got it home it was obvious the whole interior had some kind of colored coating. In 3 months everywhere you had been touching looked worn. After a year all the vinyl on armrests etc are shredded.
Whatever they used I still think its a good thing as long as you dont fool yourself into thinking its going to last as long as new upholstery.
For them it closes the sale at a price in their favor and I imagine they have to pay a skilled person good money to apply it.
(used to be in the used office furniture business. Sometimes we got high end casegoods like from lawyers offices that had significant movers damage. Talking about desk and credenza sets like a brand called monte verde that started at $12k new up to $20k or more. We could do minor repairs but had a guy we used he could take a desk that looked like youd kicked it down a flight of stairs make it look new. He was truly an artist, you dont just take a box of brown crayons and start doing that. He wasnt cheap but it was worth it when we needed him. Untouched we'd be lucky to get $1200 for that set. We paid him $300 and sold it in a day for $4k.)

So when these dealers spruce up a car whether its inside or outside I highly doubt it was done by a flunkie they employ for $10 an hour. Some of these pros are real good and do things it takes many years to learn.
a lot of them have specialists on contract for paintless dent removal and interior touch ups.
fiberenew has lots of tricks up their sleeves.
 

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Get the Lucas PS fluid and a small vacuum canister. Take the fluid out of the PS reservoir and replace it with the Lucas. Do this three times, about six months apart. Steering will be quieter and smoother.
If a front end alignment does not center the steering wheel, the car might have been in a wreck. This is important - do not settle for a crooked wheel.
Knocking on entrances typically is loose front sway bar end links but the strut mounts also do it. I bought some cool stuff at Lowes called 'Super slick Stuff' and about every year i'll spray the upper strut mounts on both sides. The stuff is very light and has no oily residue. I actually use it for a lot of things and just bought my third can of it.
I'm using Mobil1 synthetic 0W-20 'high mileage' and I highly recommend it. Get a bottle of Startron stabilizer/cleaner and use 1/2 oz per fill-up - every time. I buy it by the quart and refill the small bottle in each vehicle. Using at least mid-grade gas is good too. The oil, the stabilizer and the fuel together, IMO, can prevent cylinder problems associated with VCM when used from the start in a new engine. It can help clean an older engine and might just do the trick. Watch out for oil getting dirty fast especially if it is using oil - this is the first symptom of fouled cylinders. Also a rough idle and/or shudder under acceleration.
 

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Get the Lucas PS fluid and a small vacuum canister. Take the fluid out of the PS reservoir and replace it with the Lucas. Do this three times, about six months apart. Steering will be quieter and smoother.
If a front end alignment does not center the steering wheel, the car might have been in a wreck. This is important - do not settle for a crooked wheel.
Knocking on entrances typically is loose front sway bar end links but the strut mounts also do it. I bought some cool stuff at Lowes called 'Super slick Stuff' and about every year i'll spray the upper strut mounts on both sides. The stuff is very light and has no oily residue. I actually use it for a lot of things and just bought my third can of it.
I'm using Mobil1 synthetic 0W-20 'high mileage' and I highly recommend it. Get a bottle of Startron stabilizer/cleaner and use 1/2 oz per fill-up - every time. I buy it by the quart and refill the small bottle in each vehicle. Using at least mid-grade gas is good too. The oil, the stabilizer and the fuel together, IMO, can prevent cylinder problems associated with VCM when used from the start in a new engine. It can help clean an older engine and might just do the trick. Watch out for oil getting dirty fast especially if it is using oil - this is the first symptom of fouled cylinders. Also a rough idle and/or shudder under acceleration.
Lucas PS fluid is highly recommended around here...

A 100 dollar investment in a muzzler will be much cheaper, than the increased cost per fill-up on mid grade gas and additives in the long run.
not to mention the extensive repair issues related to the VCM being left enabled.

Why do so many people resist disabling this stupid gimmick, that Honda threw on to meet emission standards at the consumers expense.

clinging to ideologies over practicalities is truly perplexing to witness.
 

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Lucas PS fluid is highly recommended around here...

A 100 dollar investment in a muzzler will be much cheaper, than the increased cost per fill-up on mid grade gas and additives in the long run.
not to mention the extensive repair issues related to the VCM being left enabled.

Why do so many people resist disabling this stupid gimmick, that Honda threw on to meet emission standards at the consumers expense.

clinging to ideologies over practicalities is truly perplexing to witness.
The idea that having a V6 engine use all 6 of its cylinders is somehow bad for it simply staggers the imagination. It's hard to find the words to describe just how completely inane that notion is.

People: VCM2 (model years 2008-2017) is a dog and a clunker. It has cost Honda millions and millions of dollars in engine rebuilds that shouldn't have been necessary. The newest Honda V6s (with VCM3) run only on 3 or 6 cylinders. Ya wanna know the biggest reason why the 4 cylinder option went away? Because it's too fricking complicated to execute well, even now. Even Honda decided the stupid thing (ie VCM2) isn't worth the trouble so they ditched it. Why on earth would we owners not follow their lead? We have it in our power to do so. Easily.

Muzzle the VCM on your gen 4 Odyssey and make everyone's life easier - yours, the van's, and Honda's.
 

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Hey! Internet Guy Here, we know better than a well known, multinational, successful car manufacturer how to best manage your $30-45k Odyssey! Honest, trust us, we all know what we're talking about, Honda are knuckleheads! Buy my device!!

;)

This is a hard pill to swallow, that Honda purposefully has done this, it's failed and they refuse to adjust, admit or anything else. The "fear" of modifying something that will affect gas mileage and what that might mean to Federal/National Regulators (think VW emissions scandal!) I think keeps them form doing anything. Once you start to look at all of this, read, learn and become aware it starts to make sense; but of all the Odyssey owners around me I have yet to convince a single one to add a Muzzle. They ask their dealer, they explain it away or deny and I look like a conspiracy theorist; while they continue to drop insane money at the dealership on new OEM front brakes and pads, yet again, creaky struts, rough shifting and poor driving quality (herky/jerky), let alone the possibility of outright engine failure and P3 codes from the VCM.

The fact they revised this system but KEPT it blows my mind, but not overly surprising. They're not building them to last any longer, which tells me a lot about Honda as a corporation today.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If a front end alignment does not center the steering wheel, the car might have been in a wreck. This is important - do not settle for a crooked wheel.
I mean, is this really an instant red flag? Isn't it possible that someone popped a curb and the wheel got off? I know they just did an alignment 2 weeks ago. I have the report. I hate to be alarmist about it if the van is otherwise on the track to being fixed.

And when you say don't settle for it, what is the solution you think should be fought for at the dealer? Thanks!
 

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I mean, is this really an instant red flag? Isn't it possible that someone popped a curb and the wheel got off? I know they just did an alignment 2 weeks ago. I have the report.
If they did an alignment and the wheel is off, that is DEFINITELY a red flag. Getting the steering wheel straight is part of an alignment! Even if the van was never in an accident or had suspension damaged, they had a monkey do the alignment...

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #38
If they did an alignment and the wheel is off, that is DEFINITELY a red flag. Getting the steering wheel straight is part of an alignment! Even if the van was never in an accident or had suspension damaged, they had a monkey do the alignment...
OK so of all the things I've discussed on the thread, if what is being implied here is true, this should be more concerning than the power steering noise and the clicking while turning. Are you just saying they did a bad job with the alignment, or if after an alignment the steering wheel being off is a sign of a major problem that can't be fixed without major repair?

Believe it or not, they have already mentioned they would buy it back from me rather than paying for all the nickel and diming I'm asking for. Problem is, my wife is already in love with the van cause inside is in great shape and it has all the features we wanted -- and the paint looks good enough. Until this last comment, I was content with the arrangement with the dealer on the paint, PS, and the strut and ready to call this all done and enjoy the new van.

Now I'm second guessing 😬??
 

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If they did an alignment and the wheel is off, that is DEFINITELY a red flag. Getting the steering wheel straight is part of an alignment! Even if the van was never in an accident or had suspension damaged, they had a monkey do the alignment...

-Charlie
^this
All this alignment discussion reminds me of a "funny" experience I had a few years ago, and is the reason I try to avoid dealer service depts if at all possible.

I took my '12 to Honda for an alignment prior to installing new tires. It had no real problems at the time but one of the original tires showed slightly uneven wear. They took 3 hours to do the job, and the serv advisor said it was "way out of alignment" and therefore took longer than normal. When I picked up the van the steering wheel was about 1/4 turn off center but otherwise good. I turned around and went back to have it corrected, and serv advisor said the steering components are really worn and should be replaced. I stared at him for a minute in disbelief, and then asked why we had no problems before, and why the steering wheel is not on center. He said they did the best they could with a worn system and that is really all they could do for me. I then asked for a refund and how to use my warranty plan to pay a competent shop to do the alignment. His tune then changed, and he got us in the next day to correct their mistake, and never again mentioned the worn steering system. All has been good since, and I have never gone back for anything other than recall work.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
All has been good since, and I have never gone back for anything other than recall work.
For sure! I have no plans to be back to the dealer other than recall work myself. Occasionally, I'll pay the extra couple bucks to get an oil change at the dealer if I suspect there an issue occurring that I don't know about, since I know they'll sniff it out in hopes they can charge me more. The difference in oil change prices is far less than a true diagnostic test. Then I can just go get it done at my mechanic.

Since me and the dealer have nearly reached resolve on this issue, we are hoping to fall back into the world of reliable local mechanics and private party purchases going forward! I felt like we were forced into a bit of a situation due to COVID-19. We need to replace the van and there was absolutely NO private party inventory.

I appreciate everyone's input on this thread!
 
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