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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey with about 156K miles. in June 2019 I replaced the alternator with this model from Majestic Honda:

2011-2015 Honda Alternator (CSJ24) (RMD) 31100-RV0-305 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts

Last week as I'm driving I get the charging system error and sure enough within a few days the car is acting funny until eventually it won't start. I charged the battery and checked with my multimeter. With the car running I am only reading less than 12 volts at the battery and when I check at the alternator (putting multimeter on the alternator's post) I am only getting around 10-11 volts.

Before I go buy another alternator is there anything else I can check as to why the alternator died in a little over 2 years? I believe these are remanufactured alternators but is this normal for a reman and one from Honda at that? Should I be looking at something else that causes it to fail prematuraly? I guess at this point even if I spend 440 buck every 2 years maybe it just has to become part of maintenance since I'm doing the work myself.
 

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check the internal resistance on the battery.
it could be working the alternator extra hard.
load test it too...

also possible you just got a bad one, it happens but is rare.
 

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Interesting - you're the second person to report a failure of a Denso alternator at only 2 years old recently. I believe celicool had the same experience.

Definitely not normal, but I guess it happens...
 

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A full charging system test is in order first and foremost. Then, if the alternator is indeed found to be the problem, you can get it rebuilt locally (if you have a reputable rebuilder) or at least use RockAuto to save a little bit. The dealer (even if its the cheaper online one) price of over $440 is way too rich for my blood.
 

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Given our difficulties with failing alternators on a Nissan Altima 3.5 SE, other possible items:
  • Oil or any other liquid dripping onto the alternator and getting into the alternator.
    • Prior to installing the second alternator in as many years, I found that the valve cover was leaking at one corner, and had caused the OEM alternator and its replacement to fail.
    • Tightened up the valve cover, stopped the leak from dropping any more oil on the alternator, and the replacement Denso alternator kept on working.
  • Grounds ... you need them
    • Nissans suffer from this, as in not enough ground points.
    • I checked the stock ground straps and cabling from engine, or transmission to chassis. I refurbished these by unbolting them, sanding off corrosion on cable ends and mounting points, applying dielectric grease, re-installed them.
    • Added one more ground using a threaded boss on the transmission and an unused threaded weld nut on the unibody (suitably prepped with sandpaper and dielectric grease) and connected the two points with a 6AWG cable with properly crimped lug ends.
    • Technically, it's called "bonding", but you get the idea
    • I finished by spraying the ground connections with a coat of CorrosionX. The 16oz. aerosol can will last you for an entire lifetime.
OF
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A full charging system test is in order first and foremost. Then, if the alternator is indeed found to be the problem, you can get it rebuilt locally (if you have a reputable rebuilder) or at least use RockAuto to save a little bit. The dealer (even if its the cheaper online one) price of over $440 is way too rich for my blood.
Yeah when I was doing my research 2 years ago everyone was recommending to get it from a Honda dealership. But at this rate since it only lasted 2 years maybe I will try RockAuto. I may try to replace again and if it fails a third time I will be convinced it's something else lol..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Given our difficulties with failing alternators on a Nissan Altima 3.5 SE, other possible items:

  • Oil or any other liquid dripping onto the alternator and getting into the alternator.
    • Prior to installing the second alternator in as many years, I found that the valve cover was leaking at one corner, and had caused the OEM alternator and its replacement to fail.
    • Tightened up the valve cover, stopped the leak from dropping any more oil on the alternator, and the replacement Denso alternator kept on working.
  • Grounds ... you need them
    • Nissans suffer from this, as in not enough ground points.
    • I checked the stock ground straps and cabling from engine, or transmission to chassis. I refurbished these by unbolting them, sanding off corrosion on cable ends and mounting points, applying dielectric grease, re-installed them.
    • Added one more ground using a threaded boss on the transmission and an unused threaded weld nut on the unibody (suitably prepped with sandpaper and dielectric grease) and connected the two points with a 6AWG cable with properly crimped lug ends.
    • Technically, it's called "bonding", but you get the idea
    • I finished by spraying the ground connections with a coat of CorrosionX. The 16oz. aerosol can will last you for an entire lifetime.
OF
Thanks I will check out some of these as well.
 

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Spool valve in the front is definitely worth checking. Not something that's always easily seen unless you're looking for it. It'll kill even the highest quality alternator that you put in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well this is a new one for me lol... Can you tell me what a spool valve does and what it would be leaking? Gonna have to add this one to the "had no clue that was even a thing" list hahaha!
 

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It leaks oil onto the alternator as it is placed right above it.
(VTEC solenoid and spool valve are used interchangeably here)
 

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(VTEC solenoid and spool valve are used interchangeably here)
Spool valve is the general term. Toyota calls the same thing an Oil Control Valve.

-Charlie
 

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I believe these are remanufactured alternators but is this normal for a reman and one from Honda at that?
Yup, they're reman. And a reman done by Denso is the same, whether sold through through a Honda dealer for $440 or Rock Auto for $160. Just another example of the markups added to parts as they move through the dealer parts distribution process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yup, they're reman. And a reman done by Denso is the same, whether sold through through a Honda dealer for $440 or Rock Auto for $160. Just another example of the markups added to parts as they move through the dealer parts distribution process.
Thanks all. I'm going to buy a gasket kit for the spool valve just incase. Seems easy enough based on the video Willmaster sent and this time I'm going to go to RockAuto for alternator!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One other question, would doing a measurement at the actual alternator (putting the multimeter on the alternator's post going to battery) be the definitive test? I'm basing my troubleshooting based on that process. I realize measuring at the battery can put the actual wiring into question. I was getting like 10-11 volts when I put the red lead of my MM on the alternator's post and the black lead to the negative battery post and/or the chassis.
 

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Thanks all. I'm going to buy a gasket kit for the spool valve just incase. Seems easy enough based on the video Willmaster sent and this time I'm going to go to RockAuto for alternator!
Is it leaking? I wouldn't touch it if it isn't leaking.

You can't but the oem gaskets separately, you have to buy the whole assembly to get the oem gaskets.

Just wanted to call that out because if it's not leaking yet and you put aftermarket gaskets in there, you may end up causing a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is it leaking? I wouldn't touch it if it isn't leaking.

You can't but the oem gaskets separately, you have to buy the whole assembly to get the oem gaskets.

Just wanted to call that out because if it's not leaking yet and you put aftermarket gaskets in there, you may end up causing a leak.
Noted Thank you! I will check before buying.
 

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Noted Thank you! I will check before buying.
Also, there is a specific TSB with the full replacement procedure and part numbers in the sticky thread at the top of this forum.

-Charlie
 

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I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey with about 156K miles. in June 2019 I replaced the alternator with this model from Majestic Honda:

2011-2015 Honda Alternator (CSJ24) (RMD) 31100-RV0-305 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts

Last week as I'm driving I get the charging system error and sure enough within a few days the car is acting funny until eventually it won't start. I charged the battery and checked with my multimeter. With the car running I am only reading less than 12 volts at the battery and when I check at the alternator (putting multimeter on the alternator's post) I am only getting around 10-11 volts.

Before I go buy another alternator is there anything else I can check as to why the alternator died in a little over 2 years? I believe these are remanufactured alternators but is this normal for a reman and one from Honda at that? Should I be looking at something else that causes it to fail prematuraly? I guess at this point even if I spend 440 buck every 2 years maybe it just has to become part of maintenance since I'm doing the work myself.
My recent Denso Reman failed in similar fashion after 2 years and 32k miles.

I finally come to term with it and accept that there could be external factors causing its premature failure. I am looking out for another candidate alternator but will settle for a Denso Reman if needed.
 

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I can't believe I didn't originally catch that OP's Odyssey was a 2011 - which is prone to the spool valve leak due to VCM-2. Just to note, the 2007 with VCM-1 doesn't have a front spool valve. But any sort of oil leak onto the alternator can cause it to overheat. I suspect that a badly leaking valve cover gasket might cause too much oil to get onto the alternator as well.
 
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