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Thanks for posting the pictures. Nice job.
Wishing you the best in your repairs. Hopefully someone with actual experience in doing the repairs will give you some good advice, if needed.
Best of luck. :D
Buffalo4
 

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I take heads to a machine shop. They can, in minutes, tell me which valves are leaking. They pull a vacuum on each valve. This is on older 'classic' cars that have 2 valves per cylinder. I then leave the head with them and they replace valves, grind valve seats, replace valve guides, replace valve stem seals and surface the head if needed. This way it all gets done correctly. Takes me too much time to do myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I take heads to a machine shop. They can, in minutes, tell me which valves are leaking. They pull a vacuum on each valve. This is on older 'classic' cars that have 2 valves per cylinder. I then leave the head with them and they replace valves, grind valve seats, replace valve guides, replace valve stem seals and surface the head if needed. This way it all gets done correctly. Takes me too much time to do myself.
I agree they are very efficient at what they do. After all they do it for a living lol.

I plan on having both heads rebuilt.
I dont trust valves after a failure like that and over 230k miles.
I read that some people clean the valves and lap them into the seats but if your in it this far mite as well not halfass it lol

Once I found out about the engine,I wanted the experience of working on a interference motor to see what all is involved.

I got both the heads stripped down. I took the valves out but left the seals and seats and guides,removed the studs and brackets as well just incase they have to surface it.

I bet there is some kind of cool tool to take those valve seals off. I destroyed them trying to take them off. The good thing is I only took 2 of them off where I knew I had bent valves and probably guides.

I had 4 bent for sure both on exhaust side.
It took me about 3 hours to get them to that point.

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Discussion Starter #26
Or finda donor vehicle from a pick a part place and swap it out with that one. See which way is cheaper.
Good idea. I have thought of that too. If this motor was damaged beyond repair I planned on trying that route.
I am thinking I will just need to rebuild the heads and re assemble.
Instead of pulling this motor/trans and bolting in a motor with a unknown history.
With my luck I will get 15 minutes from home with the pick a part motor installed and the thing will drop the timing belt lol
 

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Was thinking of just getting another cylinder head and swapping that out. If that cost less than what the machine shop would charge. Say if they have to charge you 200-225 for a long block even if you only pull out the cylinder head then you can compare it with the machine shop cost. Make sure you get the warranty so you can return it if it does not run.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Was thinking of just getting another cylinder head and swapping that out. If that cost less than what the machine shop would charge. Say if they have to charge you 200-225 for a long block even if you only pull out the cylinder head then you can compare it with the machine shop cost. Make sure you get the warranty so you can return it if it does not run.
Ahh now I see what your saying. That could be a cheaper route and still an easy route as well. Makes sense.
I will call around this week and get some prices from head shops to get an idea of the cost. Then I could weigh in the decision.
Thanks for the idea I appreciate it.
 
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