The actual coolant temp does NOT change by adding the resistor. All you are doing is increasing resistance in the ECT1 thermistor circuit which reports a lower value to the ECU and dash gauge reading. The coolant temp remains the same.Yep. The temp gauge on the dash really didn't change at all. If I didn't have the ScanGauge, it would seem the engine was the same temperature. And honestly...it might be! The actual coolant temp may very well be the exact same, but this one sensor is just giving a tweaked reading. That would be absolute best case scenario.
I'm running on Verbatim's setup for almost a year now. No problems and looks factory with the connectors. I ordered mine with 3 resistors though. This is the way to go IMO.You can order one pre-made from Verbatim on this forum. It comes with two resistors and you can use whichever works best for you.
1/2 or 1 watt seem to be perfect. You don't need any more than 1 watt.What is wattage should I buy. I see a couple of options 1/4 to 8 watt. Any difference? Thanks guys.
It should work unless you're splicing into the wrong wire. What is the code it's throwing? Also, this should be done when the engine is stone cold in the morning. If you're taking it in and out while it's hot you're going to set a code every time, especially if you are unplugging it within 30 minutes of shutting off the engine while the PCM is still doing checks.So, I have an 08 Odyssey. I was assuming this would work the same, 82 Ohm resistor wired in with disconnects as the OP said, used the red wire on the switch. Checked the wire with an Ohm reader to make sure it was correct and it Ohms out right. My van won't start with it in. It cranks and throws a code. After I take it out and connect the wire together like stock it has a hard start and then will start up. CEL stays on and seems to have bypassed VCM. However, not in the way I was wanting it to. Does anyone know if 08 is different in some way? It seems like this is the same method that the VCmuzzler uses.
No, you don't need to disconnect the battery beforehand. The code won't clear on its own, though. You'll have to clear it with a scan tool. There's no reason it shouldn't start with the resistor in there unless you're putting the resistor on the wrong sensor. I know the VCMuzzler seems a bit expensive but it takes all the work out of the whole process and it's not possible to put it on the wrong sensor.It's throwing a P0118 Code for Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. I tried plugging it in first thing this morning before leaving for work and it just cranked. Didn't want to start. Do I need to have the battery unplugged while doing so?