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quicksilvr, thank you for the post and the info. We just bought an '05 Odyssey and replaced the motor mounts. I will be doing this ASAP.
I see that you used two 82Ω res in series, wouldn't that be 164Ω? I live in NW Florida and will experience higher temperatures soon. From what I have read, I will start with a 100Ω single res.
Thanks again.
 

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You can order one pre-made from Verbatim on this forum. It comes with two resistors and you can use whichever works best for you.
 

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Just got off the road after a three hundred mile trip. After adding a single 100ohm res eco light never came on. 70-75 degree temps. Drives great, idles normally. After connections and additional wire and , 102.4ohms.
 

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What was your fuel economy?

I'm about to build this myself using sealed bullet connectors on the ECT1 wiring so that I can take out my resistor assembly or replace it with a different resistance assembly as needed. I'm going to start with an 82 and a 100 ohm resistor assembly and see which one works best for me.

I will add some pictures of my version of this soon! Thanks for the pictures!
 

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Yep. The temp gauge on the dash really didn't change at all. If I didn't have the ScanGauge, it would seem the engine was the same temperature. And honestly...it might be! The actual coolant temp may very well be the exact same, but this one sensor is just giving a tweaked reading. That would be absolute best case scenario.
The actual coolant temp does NOT change by adding the resistor. All you are doing is increasing resistance in the ECT1 thermistor circuit which reports a lower value to the ECU and dash gauge reading. The coolant temp remains the same.
 

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You can order one pre-made from Verbatim on this forum. It comes with two resistors and you can use whichever works best for you.
I'm running on Verbatim's setup for almost a year now. No problems and looks factory with the connectors. I ordered mine with 3 resistors though. This is the way to go IMO.
 

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I am running Verbatim's since last winter, but recently warmer weather finally hits OHIO, and I got the P0128, Coolant Thermostat below regulating temperature.
Not sure if it is related? Or just a bad thermostat?
 

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I am running Verbatim's since last winter, but recently warmer weather finally hits OHIO, and I got the P0128, Coolant Thermostat below regulating temperature.
Not sure if it is related? Or just a bad thermostat?
What resistor are you running?
 

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He has a 100 ohm resistor which, it seems to me, would come in handy at times.
 

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Update: I installed the 82ohm, 1Watt, 1% Metal Film Oxide in my ECT1 and so far after 100 miles of mixed driving at 50-75F air temps there VCM has never kicked on and no CEL light. I did plug in my scanner just in case and it showed a PO118 which I reset but it did not trip the CEL light. I suspect that the 82OHM will be fine for our driving style since we rarely sit in traffic, mostly averaging 45-70 mph. So far fuel economy as calculated by the onboard computer is 22.8mpg which is almost better than it was with VCM on.

What is wattage should I buy. I see a couple of options 1/4 to 8 watt. Any difference? Thanks guys.
1/2 or 1 watt seem to be perfect. You don't need any more than 1 watt.
 

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Thank guys for your help.
I'm not the fan of irreversible mod so I don't like the idea that cut the cord and add a resistor. Thus I came up with one cheap method for reversible mod.
IMG_20160523_145850.jpg
IMG_20160523_155008.jpg
I found a 2 pin connector which is about .5 cm from each other as in the picture and trim away all of the out side plastic. (this one is from old computer)
The next step is to put a 100 ohm into it as all of the people here did.
The connector fits perfectly into the sensor pin and just put the end of the wire into the old pigtail and secure it with electrical tape and/or zipper then you good to go.


I found couple of options during the mod:

1. 82ohm or 100 ohm? I think there is no different. Sometime even with 100 ohm in Oklahoma (80 F now) the eco light still on if I stop for a while in red light then go. I think 120 ohm will completely shut it down. The main point here is it will not on when you drive most of the time.
For ohm - temp look at this one (i found couple of other chart but basically they are the same idea about 20 to 40 ohm is not that much different)
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2009-09-10_184041_10.gif

2. I first found this piggytail connector but it will NOT fit (at least my sensor) because if you look carefully you will see they are not the same. The curved close to the lock of the female connector is closer in my case while the one that on ebay is further away. Just enough to make it not fit. However if you cannot buy or have the 2pin connector from an old computer then you can buy the ebay one an trim the outside.

Honda Acura IAT ect vtec Connector Plug Pigtail Civic Element Fit Pilot Accord | eBay

The total cost is about $10 and the main advantage of this is completely reversible. I'm not an associate of this seller or what so ever. Thank you again.
 

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Thanks for this thread. 5 minutes time, an inch of 60/40 solder, an 8 cent resistor, and a little bit of shrink tube and no more VCM for me.
 

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So, I have an 08 Odyssey. I was assuming this would work the same, 82 Ohm resistor wired in with disconnects as the OP said, used the red wire on the switch. Checked the wire with an Ohm reader to make sure it was correct and it Ohms out right. My van won't start with it in. It cranks and throws a code. After I take it out and connect the wire together like stock it has a hard start and then will start up. CEL stays on and seems to have bypassed VCM. However, not in the way I was wanting it to. Does anyone know if 08 is different in some way? It seems like this is the same method that the VCmuzzler uses.
 

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So, I have an 08 Odyssey. I was assuming this would work the same, 82 Ohm resistor wired in with disconnects as the OP said, used the red wire on the switch. Checked the wire with an Ohm reader to make sure it was correct and it Ohms out right. My van won't start with it in. It cranks and throws a code. After I take it out and connect the wire together like stock it has a hard start and then will start up. CEL stays on and seems to have bypassed VCM. However, not in the way I was wanting it to. Does anyone know if 08 is different in some way? It seems like this is the same method that the VCmuzzler uses.
It should work unless you're splicing into the wrong wire. What is the code it's throwing? Also, this should be done when the engine is stone cold in the morning. If you're taking it in and out while it's hot you're going to set a code every time, especially if you are unplugging it within 30 minutes of shutting off the engine while the PCM is still doing checks.
 

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It's throwing a P0118 Code for Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. I tried plugging it in first thing this morning before leaving for work and it just cranked. Didn't want to start. Do I need to have the battery unplugged while doing so?
 

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It's throwing a P0118 Code for Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. I tried plugging it in first thing this morning before leaving for work and it just cranked. Didn't want to start. Do I need to have the battery unplugged while doing so?
No, you don't need to disconnect the battery beforehand. The code won't clear on its own, though. You'll have to clear it with a scan tool. There's no reason it shouldn't start with the resistor in there unless you're putting the resistor on the wrong sensor. I know the VCMuzzler seems a bit expensive but it takes all the work out of the whole process and it's not possible to put it on the wrong sensor.
 

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I'll see if I can take some pictures later tonight and make sure I'm on the correct wire. I watched a video on the VCmuzzler installation to make sure I was using the correct sensor.
 

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Do you have a scan tool that will report live data? If so, you can see the temp while the car is running. Clear the codes.

Then in the morning connect it up and start it up again. If you're on the right sensor and have put in 82 ohms (not Mohms, kohms, etc.) then it should work fine.

If you don't have a scan tool then connect it up stock and go somewhere and get the code cleared. Then wait until morning again, connect it up, and then start the car. Do NOT turn on the key or start the car before connecting it up. Again, if you're on the right sensor it should work fine.
 
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