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Yeah, that's the right sensor. There's no reason it shouldn't work.

One side comment, though. Remember that moisture and humidity can work its way into standard crimp connectors. Ideally, you'd want to use connectors that are moisture-proof. The ones that aren't moisture-proof will work fine for a couple years then you'll have intermittent problems with them, especially in areas where it gets humid. The resistance can increase due to corrosion inside the crimp and your temp indication could become erratic. Again, the VCMuzzler prevents that by using the OEM connectors. I am not affiliated with the designer other than we're both members here. I just am very pleased with the quality of what he designed.
 

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So quick question. Since you have a few extra resistors/ connectors, care to build and sell me one? ;)
Check out this blog post - VCM Suppressor. Quite some information there and explains about devices like VCMuzzler and VCM Suppressor, or stuffs like that (vcmdisable.com is another example). The VCM Suppressor DIY kit is what I can find to cost the least.
 

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It was ineveitable that others would use the information I freely provided to make money for themselves. It's a shame people can't come up with their own original ideas, but that's the way the world works I guess. The price of the VCMuzzler may seem high, but there is a lot more to it than just the parts. Each is hand made, and the time I put in for all the other aspects of purchasing parts, sales and customer service support, manufacturing, shipping, paypal and ebay fees, it all adds up.

Anyhow, it's unfortunate people don't see the value in what I sell as it's a fully sealed, OEM quality device that can be easily reconfigured as your cooling system inevitably changes over time and you need to change resistance.

At the end of the day, money talks and people will always capitalize on other's ideas.
 

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Mr. Verbatim, I bought one, and find your product very well made, and a good work around to a designed in fault by Honda.

That said, you must have assumed, as the Muzzler is so simple, people would copy it.

Have you tried selling it thru independent garages?

Now if you can only fix the front door detent issue. Only Honda would use the same door detent for a Civic door and an Odyssey door!

Anyway, thanks for the Muzzler.
 

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Verbatim spent the time to figure out how to bypass the VCM B.S. and I really appreciate it that he shared this with us. For me it's worth the money to buy the VCMuzzler from him. I bought mine with all 4 resistors. Very professionally made product and reversible. Thx L.
 

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Is VCM on all trim levels? I've seen pics of engine covers that have a "VCM" logo on it while ours does not. Also, the manual says the "ECO" light is only on the EX-L and Touring models. We have an EX (2005).

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
 

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I recently purchased my 2007 Odyssey EXL from a single owner with 110K. I noticed the motor mount was recently changed and knew of the oil burning issues with VCM 3.5L engines. After researching this forum, I decided to purchase the VCM Suppressor and installed it a month ago. Great product! I'm very pleased with it. The van is mainly stop-and-go traffic as daily driver and did not see any difference in gas mileage, which is around 15-16 MPG. Took the family on the first road trip (4 people, 2 dogs, luggage) in the van yesterday for 320 miles and got 24 MPG. Not bad considering the age of the vehicle, weight, and the mountain roads to we took through VA and WV.

Big thanks to all the users of this forum. The knowledge, trials & tribulations and insight shared on this forum is invaluable.
 

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The 2005 EX has the non-VCM J35A6 engine, as does the LX model. The EX-L and the Touring have VCM with the J35A7 engine.
 

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I bought one of the first VCMuzzlers Verbatim sold. I have no idea what he charges for the device now but I would gladly pay it for the results and peace of mind it produces. I'm now at 50K miles using it and it is flawless. I went from 1 quart oil consumption per 1000 miles to zero consumption in 7000 mile OCI. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.
 

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Found a supplier on Ebay where you can select your resistor, packs of 10 for a few bucks. Put an 75 and 8.2 together. When it was all made it came up in the mid 90s, but from what I've read here, my guess is ballpark is sufficient. Cut the wire just behind the plug, so no tearing up the plastic protector, only the tape. And it is working fine. In over four days of long term Uber driving, ECO came on only once very briefly. Runs much better now.
 

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82Ohm is kinda low. I run 86 and VCM only kicks in after 15 min in traffic jam.
There is no one perfect resistance and the temp difference you'd see between 86 and 82 is so small you likely wouldn't even notice. Every vehicle runs at a slightly different operating temp due to variability in the cooling system components. Someone with the exact same vehicle may need 68 ohms all the way up to 150. That's why the VCMuzzler comes with 5 different resistors. You cooling system also changes over time, thermostats get weaker or sticky, coolant properties change, passages may become more restricted etc. So you may have to change later.
 

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Found a supplier on Ebay where you can select your resistor, packs of 10 for a few bucks. Put an 75 and 8.2 together. When it was all made it came up in the mid 90s, but from what I've read here, my guess is ballpark is sufficient. Cut the wire just behind the plug, so no tearing up the plastic protector, only the tape. And it is working fine. In over four days of long term Uber driving, ECO came on only once very briefly. Runs much better now.
Updating this. I found over time ECO would turn on more and more. Thought it was the summer temperatures, but it's cooler now. It's almost as if the system was relearning, adjusting for the change in the reading. I made a few incremental increases to the resistance. I'm up to 100ohms now. While it does not engage at highway speeds, it does at lower (45 or less). As an Uber driver, this is not a good range for me, especially as I now get lots of vibration when it kicks in. Suspect the need to replace the mounts as well.
 

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Updating this. I found over time ECO would turn on more and more. Thought it was the summer temperatures, but it's cooler now. It's almost as if the system was relearning, adjusting for the change in the reading. I made a few incremental increases to the resistance. I'm up to 100ohms now. While it does not engage at highway speeds, it does at lower (45 or less). As an Uber driver, this is not a good range for me, especially as I now get lots of vibration when it kicks in. Suspect the need to replace the mounts as well.
I'd hook it up in the normal configuration (no resistor) and check the actual temperature from an OBDII scan tool as it is possibly running hotter than it should. With the resistor in place (especially as you increase it) you are not likely to see anything with the temperature gauge on the dash.

I have the VCMTUNER II and and found that with a 36F degree difference per the ECM from the OBDII port (162F with VCM disabled vs. 198F while idling in maintenance mode) there was absolutely no change in the temperature gauge needle position.

There is an interesting table on the website for S-VCM which shows that if you have an actual temperature of 210F if you have 82 Ohm resistor the ECM would think the temperature was 185F and with a 120 Ohm resistor it would think it was 176F - VCM is enabled above 167F. This could mean your actual temperature is exceeding 200F when travelling at 45 MPH or less.

This chart goes on to show that with an actual temperature of 270F, with an 82Ohm resistor the ECM would think it was 216F and with a 120Ohm resistor would think it is 201F. Because of this you might want to get the VCMTUNER II or S-VCM and then you would know if the temperature guage is above normal and the ECO light comes on that you have an overheating problem. The ECM will know the actual temperature with either of these solutions when it exceeds 212F.
 

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Bought a 100 ohm, 1/4W resistor at Radio Shack and installed it today, so far so good on a limited drive.
I'm in the South so I think anything much lower resistance may not fool the ECM for too long.
I directly crimped a male and female connector to each end of the resisitor and the cut wire so I can take it out if needed.
Will update on mpg as I find out.
I’m about to copy your method. Was the 1/4W resistor enough? Or would you recommend going with 1/2W or higher? Only asking because I already have 1/4W resistors.
 
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