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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DIY 2007 Odyssey ATF FLUSH with ATF-Z1 Fluid

I see no DIY for 3rd Generation ATF Oil Flush so I decided to write a short and sweet DIY ATF Oil Flush using wood ramps and no need to jack the car up. Basically as sweet and simple as possible!

GENERAL NOTES:
1. See my other thread on Engine Oil Change for tricks to put the van up on wood ramps:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65406

2. ATF Fluid: I use Honda ATF-Z1. I got a good deal at local dealer for $6/qt.
Total 10 qts = $60.
Standard Dexron-III Fluid is already $4/qt, so for $2 extra x 10 = $20 it is not worth the headache. Although it is probably fine to use other Dexron-III Fluid too. Some people use Mobil Synthetic ATF but it is expensive at $8/qt.
Anyway, I stick with Honda ATF-Z1 Fluids.

3. Do this in garage or in a place with no trees because you don’t want debris falling in dipstick. Do NOT leave dipstick open for a long time. If not sure, re-insert ATF dipstick.

4. Get 2 feet of vinyl tubing with O.D. = 1/4" or 5/16”.
Cut the vinyl tubing into 2 separate 1-foot length.
Heat one end of the vinyl tubing on kitchen stove to slightly melt one end and using something round to enlarge one end to
I.D. = 3/8”.
- One Tubing is for Funnel.
- One Tubing is for Radiator Metal Nipple (Whose O.D.= 3/8”) so the nipple fits into the Tubing with the melted end enlarged with
I.D. = 3/8”.

- Also get 4 empty milk jugs, 3 jugs for disposal and one for the cap to have a small hole cut out to allow vinyl tubing to go through it (see later).

5. You can fill through the Fill Bolt on TOP of the Trans Housing near the Brake Reservoir:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
6. But I chose to fill through the Dipstick using my Vinyl Tubing trick, which is less work than removing the Fill Bolt:

Note:
- One end of vinyl tubing is heated a bit to enlarge it so it fits the funnel's tip.
- Funnel wire is secured to battery bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
8. To do a COMPLETE ATF Flush, you need to access the Return Line from the Oil Cooler:
- Either drop the Plastic Shield (held by a whole bunch of clips, use flat screw driver to pry them out). If you lose or break any plastic clips, get them from dealer or use zip ties (This is what I did!).

- Or removing only the clips on the Driver’s Side (my lazy way!) and bend the plastic shield down and tie it as shown so it is out of the way:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
9. The ATF drain bolt is 3/8” Square. Use a ratchet to open it.

- Drain old ATF into a pan then dispose it in an empty milk jug. About 4 qts will come out of the ATF oil sump.

- Tighten the drain bolt. I think the torque is approx. 33 lb-ft (IIRC). Anyway, I did not use a torque wrench (no room down there) and hand-tighten then go from 7 o’clock to 5 o’clock (60-degree turn). I re-used the washer (just note the washer orientation during removal and make sure it is the same for installation).

- Now fill the dipstick with 4 qts of ATF.
Read a bit on how Auto Trans works, but basically, ATF is sucked from the oil sump and pushed into the Torque Converter ---> to Cooler ---> Return to Transmission via Return Line.
So by having fresh ATF in the sump, it is pushed into the TC and pump the old ATF out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
10. This step is tricky: you need to access the Return Oil Line.
- On the Driver’s Side of the Transmission, you will see 2 Banjo Connections. See the direction of ATF Flow as in picture:

* The Lower Banjo is the Outlet. I made a mistake by disconnecting this so ATF was all over the place….LOL….Spent 30 minutes cleaning it up…..:)
* The Upper Banjo is the Return Line. This one sits a bit high (17-mm Bolt) so I decided not to disconnect it. I guess you can do it as along as you fashion some sort of tubing to connect to the Banjo Line to drain the oil.

But I decide to go the easier and better way. See Step #11.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
11. Follow the Upper Banjo Line to the Radiator, you will see that it is attached to a Nipple at the bottom of the Radiator.
Using a Pair of Channel Lock Pliers, Undo the Metal Clamp to remove it. This Self-Locking Metal Clamp is a PITA to remove but with some patience, you can do it. Just make sure you don’t damage the Rubber Hose.

Now use the enlarged end of the 1-foot vinyl tubing, insert it into the Radiator Nipple. The other end enters through a hole in the milk jug’s cap (make a small round hole in the milk jug’s cap first!). I by-passed this step and simply insert the tubing into the jug, guess what? ATF was all over the place ....LOL.....Spent 30 minutes cleaning it up…...
By making the tubing going through the milk jug’s cap, the ATF flows into the jug nicely with no spilling.

The other option is having a 2nd assistant holding the tubing end into the milk jug.

The beauty about this technique (Using Return Line at Radiator instead of using Banjo connection) is that future ATF Flush is a breeze: simply undo this clamp, connect vinyl tubing into milk jug and there you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
12. Now start the engine with Trans in Park, approx. 3 qts of old ATF (from TC) will be expelled into the milk jug.
- Watch until you see bubbles in the jug.
- Stop engine.

a- Add 2 qts into the dipstick.
- Start engine, watch until you see bubbles in the jug
- Stop engine.

b- Optional Step.
*** If you do this step, then you need 12 qts total.
*** Since I only have 10 qts: 4 for 1st fill, 2 for step "a" above and 4 for final fill-up.
- Add 2 qts into the dipstick
- Start engine, watch until you see bubbles in the jug
- Stop engine.


Whatever you do, you need to save 4 qts of ATF for final fill-up.

13. Now re-install the Trans Return Rubber Line to the Radiator Nipple using a brand new screw-type clamp.
Use a 1/4" ratchet with extension to tighten clamp; my clamp uses 8-mm socket.
Snug it tight but don’t over-do it (can damage rubber line if over-tightened).
Add 4 qts ATF for final fill-up.

14. Start engine and check for leak. Wipe all areas clean to detect any leak later easy to detect.
- Drive car around the block in different gears (L, 2, D and R) for about 5 minutes.
- Park the car, stop engine, wait one minute and check ATF level as per owner’s manual.

15. Congrats on a job well-done, you just did a nice ATF Flush and save a ton of money! Enough talking, go and drink some beer....:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
bradleyras said:
Thank you for posting this. I need to change my ATF tomorrow before we embark on a week vacation.
You have 2 options:
1. Simple drain and refill (then only need 4 qts).

2. A complete FLUSH as mentioned in this DIY, this is more elaborate and requires disconnecting the Return Line.
Whatever you do, this line needs to be re-attached back to the Cooler properly with a new clamp.

If not sure, just do a Simple Drain and Refill, it is safer this way before a long trip.
 

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Why a new clamp? Can't the original clamp be reused? If its the spring tension type, I pull 'em out of the lines that feed the throttle body on the Maxima and then reuse 'em all the time. Now, I haven't done a ATF change so I was wondering why need of a new one if the old one has the correct tension and is not rusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dvpatel said:
Why a new clamp? Can't the original clamp be reused? If its the spring tension type, I pull 'em out of the lines that feed the throttle body on the Maxima and then reuse 'em all the time. Now, I haven't done a ATF change so I was wondering why need of a new one if the old one has the correct tension and is not rusted.
New clamp because this clamp (at the Cooler side) is:
1. in an awkward location (may be because I did not remove the Plastic shield completely).
2. difficult to remove using standard pliers, it took me 30 minutes struggling to remove it (the space for the pliers was very tight).
3. during the removal process I did minor damage to it ---> did not want to take a chance ---> so I used new clamp.

A new screw-type clamp is:
1. cheap (about 50 cents each)
2. easy to remove during subsequent ATF flush.

Hope you find the ATF Flush useful!
 

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Yeah. You got a point on the cheap cost and easier to remove for future for the new clamp. Since I haven't removed mine ever, perhaps once I do mine, I'd change my mind too. :)

For now, I only need to flush the Maxima's ATF but haven't gotten around to doing it for over 3 months. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
...Is everything the same for the 06 model? (I know it's 3rd gen but didn't know if maybe there were some minor changes here and there)......mark
Yep, same for all 3rd generation 2005---> models.
You will enjoy this ATF Flush.
The typical drain and refill at dealer is a "cheating job", it is not a true and purist way to flush the ATF.

This is the way to flush the ATF. I borrowed the concept from my 1998 Volvo V70, same idea. You may want to read this pdf file as well:
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/sku_files/7945_INST.PDF

I made some mistakes as you can see in the DIY....this way you guys benefit from it.

HTH.

PS: Once you have done this ATF Flush, please post a follow-up with pics, maybe you can come up with some new tips/tricks that all of us can learn.
 

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Ok, I got it up on the jack stands (thanks to the search engine, I learned that I could jack it up by the tow hook up front :cool: )

then the fun started.....the majority of the plastic clips that secure the plastic shield in place gernaded with the slightest of upward screw driver pressure :duh: so I guess when I put it back together, I'll have to utilize ******* engineering to keep it in place until I can get more clips..

any idea where I can ge.....wait....search engine...brb

ok I'm back, where the heck can I get more fasteners other than a Honda dealership?

Also, the ATF that drained out of the sump was DARK!! 28000 miles and it looks pretty bad IMO...

So to add to CNN's HOW TO, it may be wise to stock a bunch of fasteners for the plastic shield in case your explode sending shards of plastic at your face..(yes I wore safety glasses after the first explosion) :stupid:

CNN, do you mind if I post my pics to this thread?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Some more tidbits re ATF Filter. See Pic.

* 2005-06 models: ATF Filter can be changed, search for DIY.

* 2007-08 models: ATF Filter is buried deep in the Trans:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22873
Per "Honda-Tech":
"The filter cannot be accessed without removing the transmission, and splitting open the case. In this respect it is not serviceable. Thus the lifetime standard. If you were to go to the length of removing the trans and splitting the case, you might as well rebuild it."


The bad news is I cannot change my ATF Filter unless I open the Trans Case. The good news is that I never have to worry about it... hehe!

odysseyinaustin said:
....Is everything the same for the 06 model? (I know it's 3rd gen but didn't know if maybe there were some minor changes here and there.....mark
Mark, in my previous thread, I said 06 and 07 Trans is the same. I am wrong, see the attached pic. My apology!
But the idea is still the same. Post what your 2006 Ody Trans looks like so others can see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
bradleyras said:
CNN, do you mind if I post my pics to this thread?
Please do! This is the forum is all about, sharing info, add your experience/pics, tips/tricks etc.
It makes the thread even better!
Love to see your pics.

The Plastic shield clips, leave the plastic shield out until you get new clips from dealer.
Or use drywall anchor+ screw?
 

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Ok, I attached the vinyl hose to the yellow nipple next to the lower radiator hose on the driver side of the radiator and when my wife started the engine, fluid poured out of the rubber line, nothing came out of the nipple...

:confused:

I have a HUGE mess to clean up. Something is not right here..
 
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