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What is the indicator that the half shafts need replaced? I had serious steering wheel wobble a while back, my father in-law, mechanic, convinced me to change the driver side out. we did and it seemed to help along with new tires. now the steering wheel does not wobble but the car shakes or shudders under light acceleration between 50 and 65 mph. i'm wondering if the passenger side now needs replaced or if this is a different issue all together.
 

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Nitely2, thanks for your reply. I was not familiar with this option. Every time I enter Harbor made-in-china Freight I get the feeling that I am in a Dollar Store, but there is something to be said for inexpensive tools that will be used infrequently by the DIY'er. I will give it consideration.
 

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I got one of those HF units for Christmas, I'm not impressed. I didn't feel like getting my air gun out so I unboxed the HF unit. I forget what I was doing, lugnuts maybe. It just made noise, didn't loosen anything. The thing is also kinda big to deal with. I dragged out the hose with my $120 Northern Tool air impact rated at a max of 800ft/lbs (they all see to rate them higher than reality), zip zip and done. I don't know how well the battery ones work. Sinbad, keep us posted if you go with one.
 

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Well, if you compare the smaller / lighter air gun with more torque power then of course its gonna be night and day. But unable to remove anything is the opposite of my experience. The sucker is heavy thats for sure. But it gets the job done with about the same effort that you give for you air impact. Funny is that I don't even notice the weight anymore-got used to it over the years I guess. If you handle it correctly with some muscles, it removes most of the fasteners you'll encounter - given the size limitation of the tool of course. Having no compressor noise is a plus though. For 40 bucks, you can't beat that.
 

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I got one of those HF units for Christmas, I'm not impressed. I didn't feel like getting my air gun out so I unboxed the HF unit. I forget what I was doing, lugnuts maybe. It just made noise, didn't loosen anything. The thing is also kinda big to deal with. I dragged out the hose with my $120 Northern Tool air impact rated at a max of 800ft/lbs (they all see to rate them higher than reality), zip zip and done. I don't know how well the battery ones work. Sinbad, keep us posted if you go with one.
Will do. Generally, I subscribe to Ben Franklin's wisdom:

“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”
 

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Well, if you compare the smaller / lighter air gun with more torque power then of course its gonna be night and day. But unable to remove anything is the opposite of my experience. The sucker is heavy thats for sure. But it gets the job done with about the same effort that you give for you air impact. Funny is that I don't even notice the weight anymore-got used to it over the years I guess. If you handle it correctly with some muscles, it removes most of the fasteners you'll encounter - given the size limitation of the tool of course. Having no compressor noise is a plus though. For 40 bucks, you can't beat that.
The price is right for sure. Maybe I went into it with too much expectation. I'll try it again at some point but I thought it should have removed what I put it on. I am a bit spoiled with my current gun and my decent sized compressor is pretty quiet so a non-issue. The size of the unit does not help, my air gun fits into tight spaces. I will find a use for the HF unit at some point....maybe. Don't get me wrong, I have a bunch of HF stuff including other airtools, grinder, hand tools and a press. Most have exceeded expectations. I refuse to buy anything rechargeable from there though.
 

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I'm just saying.......

Features and Benefits:

The IR285B-6 combines exceptional power, control, and durability. It delivers 1,770 ft-lb (2,400 Nm) of maximum torque and features a high-efficiency 6-vane motor. The swept-back handle provides excellent maneuverability with a 6" extended anvil for even more accessibility.
•Delivers 1,770 ft-lb (2,400 Nm) maximum torque
•Fast-torque™ delivers 1,000 ft-lb (1,356 Nm) in 2 seconds
•Improved feather touch trigger
•Specifications: ◦PSI (bar): 90 (6.2)
◦Max. Torque in Reverse ft-lb: 1,475
◦Working Torque Range ft-lb: 100-900
◦Weight lb: 27.8
◦Free Speed rpm: 5,000
◦Impacts per minute: 700
◦Length in: 20.1
◦Average Air Consumption cfm: 11
◦Average Air Consumption @ Load cfm: 46
◦Sound Pressure/Power dBA: 103.4/114.4
◦Air Inlet NPTF in: 1/2
◦Min. Hose Size in: 3/4
 

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Ha ha, a bit big there Sinbad but it should break an Ody crank bolt loose. That's about the only thing mine has failed at.
 

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What brand/model is your cordless impact wrench? I am ready to buy Makita 1/2 inch 18V cordless. There are two models: 3-speed ( 210 ft-lbs) and one speed (balls-out 325 ft-lbs). What is you advice?
I have a Craftsman C3 1/2" impact wrench. Works great on lug nuts and reasonably priced. They work best with the Li-ion batteries. Sears has a more powerful version out now that can be had for $149 on sale. If money wasn't an issue, I would opt for the Milwaulkee M18.
 

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I have a Craftsman C3 1/2" impact wrench. Works great on lug nuts and reasonably priced. They work best with the Li-ion batteries. Sears has a more powerful version out now that can be had for $149 on sale. If money wasn't an issue, I would opt for the Milwaulkee M18.
Thanks, I will check the local Sears store.

$170 with 4 Ah super Li Ion battery, Sears.com

$69 (on sale) with NiCad battery: Sears.com
 

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I refuse to buy anything rechargeable from there though.
Most rechargeables are only good for 5 years at best whether you use it or not. Eventually you'll be needing to buy pricey new batts. And it will always happen when you needed the tool the most and then it dies on you. Plus with the battery pack, its even heavier. Nowadays, I stick with the corded power tools as much as possible. More reliable on any brand.
 

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Most rechargeables are only good for 5 years at best whether you use it or not. Eventually you'll be needing to buy pricey new batts. And it will always happen when you needed the tool the most and then it dies on you. Plus with the battery pack, its even heavier. Nowadays, I stick with the corded power tools as much as possible. More reliable on any brand.
Corded is always a good option but sometimes cordless is the perfect choice depending on what you are doing. My FIL has bought a couple HF rechargable drills, the batteries usually last 6 months at best. On the other side, I have 2 milwaukee 12v rechargeable drills. One is 21 or 22 years old. The original batteries are long gone but I had one rebuilt at Batteries Plus maybe 6 years ago and it's still going strong. The newer drill is 6 or 7 years old and the batteries are now showing their age. Both drills have amazing power. To me, on this type of item, you get what you pay for.
 

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I just thought I’d pass along some pearls of wisdom on replacing the half shafts on a Honda Odyssey (mine’s a 2007 LX). I completed this task this past weekend, but not without some major struggles. In a job like this, one needs to understand that the biggest frustration is going to be when something doesn’t come loose (as it always is with car mechanic-ing). There are 3 places that this happened to me —here’s what they are and how I dealt with them.

1) The axle nut would not come loose. I couldn’t get either one to loosen with a 1/2” breaker bar plus a pipe for extra leverage. Standing on the breaker bar, bouncing on it, hitting it with a 4 lb hammer, none of those worked. So I borrowed a friend’s electric impact wrench. That worked on the driver side but passenger side still wouldn’t budge. Finally I bought an air impact wrench and this did the trick after only 15 seconds of application. For reference, the electric impact tool could deliver about 250 ft.lbs of torque while the air tool had about twice that, and that double torque is what it took. So plan in advance for some serious torque application.

2) The ball joint would not come loose. I thought mine would come off easy since I had the lower A arms replaced about a year ago, with new ball joints. But it was not to be. Ball joints are notorious for being difficult to separate anyway, and since there is the alternative to separate at the strut mount, I highly recommend going that route. I found it was just as easy to get the axle out that way, so save yourself a headache.

3) I could not get the passenger side axle to separate from the intermediate axle. Several other people have reported this problem and it’s a real bear. Forget trying to pry them apart by sticking something up between where they join —there’s not enough room to get good leverage or force. And there's no easy way to bang on the end of the CV joint because of the exhaust and the heat shield are in the way. I ended up removing the 3 bolts that hold the heat shield and moving it aside. That allowed me to insert from the driver side direction my trusty tire tool (a 11/16” diameter, 24” long steel rod) up against the CV housing, and then 2 hard hits with a 4 lb hammer on the tool separated the joint. So that’s what worked for me.

Hopefully passing along my experience will save readers some aggravation when they try it. Forewarned is forearmed. Good luck.
 

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Tip for removing axle nut: Put your 3 ton hydraulic floor jack under the end of the breaker bar with the 36 mm axle nut and slowly pump. Eventually it will loosen with a crack :)
 

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Did this a couple months ago on our 2003 EX. Getting ready to sell it, so I just installed a set of Cardone axles. Only have a few thousand miles on these, but the difference on the freeway is phenomenal, namely no more steering wheel shake at freeway speed.

I just used by 1-inch drive tools (42-inch breaker bar with 1-inch drive-to-3/4-inch drive reducer into a 36mm impact-rated 6-sided axle socket). However, I did first remove the front wheels, removed the center caps, reinstalled the wheels, then I had the wifey put max effort onto the brake pedal (engine running) so as not to impart any potential misery to the rest of the driveline. Call me cautious, and it worked well.

I'm a fan of big tools for big jobs.

The hydraulic floor jack trick sounds like a winner. :cool:

OF
 

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Just replaced Drivers side half axle via plan B. The hub nut was on so tight that the floor jack method did not work. Lifted the left side clean off the stand even when I stood on the bar (LOL). Finally chiseled the nut off. Other than that, everything was smooth.
The inner knuckle on the half axle was shot. I have seen that twice before on Ody axles, both on the left/passenger side. At 700K between two gen 2 Odys, that is not bad but I wonder about the strength of the inner part of the axle, particularly the clip that holds the inner axle in place. In all three cases, that cir-clip seems to have fatigued to the point that it popped out with no effort when I removed the axle. When that clip lets loose the spline backs out a bit and causes a good deal of vibration at higher speeds.
Had to re-balance tires and get another alignment but the ride is now smooth at 70 - 80 mph.
 
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