[Gregory Bender]

Hi all,

Some friends of ours have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX with around 175,000 miles on it. Way beyond time to replace the motor mounts. I spent 3 hours Thursday replacing the four easy mounts, and another 3 hours Friday replacing the fifth "difficult" mount. Here is how I went about doing it...

The five mounts (listed in the order in which I installed them):

1. A single mount on the right (passenger) side of the engine, located between the engine and the inner fender well.
2. A mount on the left (driver) side of the transmission, located between the transmission and the sub-frame. This one is located behind #3.
3. A mount on the left (driver) side of the transmission, located between the transmission and the sub-frame. This one is located in front of #2.
4. A single mount in front of the engine, located between the engine and the radiator.
5. A single mount in back of the engine, located between the engine and the sub-frame.

Mounts
I purchased a complete set of mounts off of eBay (no relation to the seller: Member id autopartsgogo)


Preparation
I jacked up the front of the minivan and supported it with good jack stands; rear parking brake applied; one rear wheel blocked with chock-blocks; I removed the left (drivers) front wheel.

Replacing the mounts

1 I started with the single mount on the right (passenger) side of the engine, located between the engine and the inner fender well. This mount is easily accessible from the top of the engine. I used my floor jack (with a thick block of wood on top of it) to support and raise the right side of the engine. Basically I just jacked it up until the through bolt of the motor mount was pretty much centered within the mount.
(1) Remove the long through bolt. I used a 17 mm wrench to break the bolt loose, and 17mm shallow and deep-well sockets to unscrew it.
(2) Remove the three bolts that secure the motor mount to the inner fender. I used a 14mm socket on a long extension.
(3) Remove the two bolts that secure the corresponding mount to the engine block. I used a 14mm socket on a long extension.
Withdrawing this mount is easy...nothing much to get in the way. Installation of the new mount is pretty much the reversal of removal. I gave all threads a coating of anti-seize and got them all started before tightening anything down.

2 and 3 Next I moved my jack to the left (driver) side and supported the transmission while I replaced both the mounts on the left (driver) side of the transmission, located between the transmission and the sub-frame. These are easy to get to with the wheel removed.
(1) Remove the four nuts (two on each mount) from the bottom sub-frame. There are holes in the sub-frame that provide access to each nut. I used a 14mm deep-well socket with a short extension.
(2) For the rear mount, remove the two bolts that secure the mount to the transmission. I used a 17mm combination wrench to access these.
(3) For the front mount, remove the two bolts that secure the mount to the transmission. I used a 14mm deep-well socket to access these.
You'll probably need to jack up the transmission to gain the space needed to withdraw the old mounts. Slide the new mounts into place. I then secured them to the transmission first. Then lowered the jack and secured the lower nuts.

4 Next up was the single mount in front of the engine, located between the engine and the radiator. I moved the jack to support the front of the engine.
(1) I removed the vacuum hose from the bottom of the mount.
(2) I loosened the top center nut that secures the mount on the engine block to the motor mount. I used a 17mm socket (1/2 drive) with a universal joint and several long extensions and a long breaker bar to loosen this nut.
(3) I loosened the four bolts that secure the motor mount to the front sub-frame. Three of these are accessible with a 14mm socket (1/2 drive) using the same universal joint/several long extensions and a breaker bar. The fourth I accessed under the car using a 14mm wrench with another wrench fit over the end for leverage. The "nuts" for each of these four bolts is welded to the bottom of the sub-frame.
(4) I loosed the three nuts that secure the mount on the engine block. I used a combination of 14mm wrenches and 14mm sockets to loosen these.
(5) To withdraw this mount from the vehicle, I found it necessary to remove the battery and plastic battery box. I also removed the vertical metal mount bolted to the battery tray (to which electrical wiring/components are attached). With these things out of the way, I was able to maneuver the mount between the radiator hoses and out of the vehicle.
Installation of the new mount is pretty much the reversal of removal. I got all the fasteners started before tightening anything down.

This was the end of three hours on Thursday evening.

5 Friday after work I started in on the single mount in back of the engine, located between the engine and the sub-frame. This is the most difficult one to access, though I honestly didn't think it was that hard to do. I started by supporting the rear of the transmission with my floor jack (with a hunk of wood between it and the transmission). I later found that I needed to loosen the mounts I had tightened the day before to gain sufficient clearance to remove the mount. With the front mount, I just loosened the top center nut until it was just started. For the right mount, I removed the two bolts that secure the mount to the engine block. For both left mounts, I removed the four nuts that secure the mounts to the sub-frame. With those mounts loose, here is the way I removed the mount (all from underneath the minivan).
(1) Remove the exhaust header "Y" pipe.
(1a) Start by unplugging the connector for the oxygen sensor.
(1a) Remove the three nuts that secure the assembly to the catalytic converter. I used a 14mm wrench to remove these.
(1b) Remove the three nuts that secure the rear header pipe. I used a 14mm socket on a long extension and a 3/8" drive breaker bar to remove these.
(1c) Remove the three nuts that secure the front header pipe. I used a 14mm socket on a long extension and a 3/8" drive breaker bar to remove these.
(1d) Remove the two bolts that secure the hanger to the sub-frame. I used a 14mm socket to remove these
(1e) Lower the "Y" pipe and remove it from the vehicle.

(2) Gain better access to the area by removing a few things:
(2a) Remove the metal piece to which the connector for the catalytic converter is attached. I used a 17mm socket to remove the bolt.
(2b) Remove the rubber piece on the side of the mount connected to the engine block. There are two bolts. I used a 10mm socket and 1/4 drive ratchet to remove these.
(2c) Remove the rubber piece bolted to the top of the rear engine mount. There is one bolt. I used a 11mm or 12mm (can't recall for sure) socket and 1/4 drive ratchet to remove it. This piece is a little difficult to remove and you have to feel around a bit.

(3) Loosen the four bolts that secure the motor mount to the sub-frame. I used a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive breaker bar to remove these. I didn't remove these until after the next step.

(4) Remove the long through bolt. This bolt was very tight and there is precious little room to get a good grab at it. I tried a variety of means of getting a good pull on it. In the end, I used a 6-point socket on 3/8" drive ratchet with a length of pipe on the ratchet handle. This got the job done, but I was a bit concerned I might break my ratchet I the process. Please do not use a 12 point socket on this (I like 6 point sockets better for most things). I consider a 6 point socket mandatory in this location.

(5) With all the bolts removed, I carefully (and slowly) jacked up the rear of the transmission. This gave me plenty of clearance to move the mount up, over, and down between the engine and sub-frame.

Installation of the new mount is pretty much the reversal of removal. I got all of the fasteners started before tightening anything down. Lower the engine slowly and get all of the other mounts tightened back down properly.

This was the end of three hours of work on Friday.

I used a good penetrating fluid to soak the fasteners before removal...and applied anti-seize to the threads before assembly. All in all, this wasn't a bad job and the rear mount wasn't all that difficult. The transformation in the sound/feel inside the cabin is nothing short of amazing...it feels like a new car again.

Let me know if you have any questions or notice any mistakes in my write-up.

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[nwf_snake]

Thanks for the write up. I did the front and side mounts today, and still need to tackle the rear mount on our '02 with 140K. It is the original mount and in need of replacing. The front engine and side engine mounts were replace at about 80K under warranty, but the front mount was in need of replacement again (probably because the back mount is shot). The side engine and tranny mounts still looked good but they are cheap and easy to replace so I did them anyway.

Your write up is great and pretty much defines the steps I took. While I had the battery tray out, I went ahead and did the tranny filter and cleaned the solenoids and screens.

 

[Gregory Bender]

Thanks for the write up.

You are most welcome, nwf_snake. I found bits and pieces of information about replacing the mounts, but no comprehensive guide. So I thought I might as well write it up :>

The right and rear mounts were both completely trashed on this Odyssey (first time any of the mounts had been replaced). The rubber had completely separated and the engine was just rattling around at will. The front engine mount had sagged some (maybe a 1/2"), but wasn't leaking (I think there is oil inside it). The left rear mount had separated from the plate. The left front mount still looked good.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[NGUSPEED]

I'm right around the corner from tackling this on our 04 Ody. Thanks for the write up.

 

[Gregory Bender]

The right and rear mounts were both completely trashed on this Odyssey (first time any of the mounts had been replaced). The rubber had completely separated and the engine was just rattling around at will. The front engine mount had sagged some (maybe a 1/2"), but wasn't leaking (I think there is oil inside it). The left rear mount had separated from the plate. The left front mount still looked good.

Correction (not that it makes much difference): I've learned that the right and front mounts had been replaced at 60,000 miles. The remaining mounts were original to the vehicle.

 

[POSGUY]

Your timing coudnt be better, thanks Mr Bender.

A question for you in relation to the rear mount...
I see you loosened the front mount and removed the bolt on the engine for the pass side and removed the bolts on the driver side mounts to lift the engine high enough to remove the rear mount. Did you have any problems aligning anything when you lowered the engine to reattach those bolts?

One last thing, is the rubber piece that goes on top of the rear mount nessessary to put back?

Just concerned if for some reason I cant complete the job I will still be able to drive the car to a mechanic and not need to spend more $$ on a flat bed.

I replace the pass side last year, the front last month, and now the rear is gone.

Thanks

 

[Gregory Bender]

Your timing coudnt be better, thanks Mr Bender.

A question for you in relation to the rear mount...
I see you loosened the front mount and removed the bolt on the engine for the pass side and removed the bolts on the driver side mounts to lift the engine high enough to remove the rear mount. Did you have any problems aligning anything when you lowered the engine to reattach those bolts?

One last thing, is the rubber piece that goes on top of the rear mount nessessary to put back?

Just concerned if for some reason I cant complete the job I will still be able to drive the car to a mechanic and not need to spend more $$ on a flat bed.

I replace the pass side last year, the front last month, and now the rear is gone.

Thanks

Hi POSGUY,

When I put in the rear mount, I fully threaded (but did not tighten) the main center bolt. Then I lowered the motor slowly until the mount was close to the sub-frame, but not tight to it (wiggle room is good). This way I could insert the bolts from the bottom of the sub-frame and get them started a few threads in the mount (even though the mount was cocked just a bit). Once I lowered the engine down further, and got the right side engine mount bolted back in place, I did not have an issue with alignment. I did not need to use pry bars or anything else. Everything just lined up pretty easily :>

I don't really know why that rubber piece is on top of the mount. I couldn't see any location where it ever contacted anything during it's 175,000 mile life. Nevertheless, I replaced it. It wasn't my car, only took a few minutes to put it on, and now I don't have any worries about it ;>

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[POSGUY]

Yes it does help thanks.

The bolts on the drivers side mounts, did you remove them or only loosen. Thanks again, Ill let you know how it turns out.

 

[Gregory Bender]

The bolts on the drivers side mounts, did you remove them or only loosen. Thanks again, Ill let you know how it turns out.

Both mounts on the left (drivers) side are retained by nuts to the sub-frame. I removed all four nuts completely to gain the height I needed to remove the rear mount.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[picturebook]

Hi POSGUY,

When I put in the rear mount, I fully threaded (but did not tighten) the main center bolt. Then I lowered the motor slowly until the mount was close to the sub-frame, but not tight to it (wiggle room is good).

Gregory Bender

How do you lower the motor slowly? What kind of jack were you using to raise/lower the engine? My jack, once release, will go all the way down, I don't have controll of the height.

 

[POSGUY]

Slowly so you can align the bolts.

My jack has a screw that when turned counter clockwise will lower the jack, turning it ever so little will allow you to lower the jack slowly.

 

[Gregory Bender]

How do you lower the motor slowly? What kind of jack were you using to raise/lower the engine? My jack, once release, will go all the way down, I don't have controll of the height.

I've got a good basic floor jack that is on wheels. Loosen the handle just a bit and it will start to go down...tighten back up and she stays in place. Every bottle jack I've used does the same thing via a small valve. I do think that a floor jack (with wheels) is nicer for this type of work.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[picturebook]

Thank you. If I want to replace all 5 mounts, is it better to try to replace the rear mount first? because it need to loosen other mounts before replacing the rear mount.

 

[nwf_snake]

Thank you. If I want to replace all 5 mounts, is it better to try to replace the rear mount first? because it need to loosen other mounts before replacing the rear mount.

Probably, but the rear is such a pain compared to the others I had to build up enough energy to do it so I am saving it for last. Sucks to get old!

 

[Gregory Bender]

Thank you. If I want to replace all 5 mounts, is it better to try to replace the rear mount first? because it need to loosen other mounts before replacing the rear mount.

I'm not sure it makes much of a difference, actually...especially if you leave the four nuts off the left mounts, just start the top nut on the front mount, and leave the engine block bolts off the right mount. I needed to do all that in order to lift the rear of the engine high enough. Going back to tighten those fasteners back down is not difficult and only takes a few minutes. With the rear lifted high enough, you could certainly replace the rear mount, both left mounts, and the right mount...then come back and do the front mount afterward.

Not having done these mounts before, I took nwf_snake's approach and built up my confidence :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[buildit]

If I want to replace all 5 mounts, is it better to try to replace the rear mount first? because it need to loosen other mounts before replacing the rear mount.

Makes good sense to loosen all mounts and replace the rear first. Like you said, have to loosen all anyway to get rear out. There is chance engine and trans will move once all loosened.

Did you have any problems aligning anything when you lowered the engine to reattach those bolts?

Yes. Engine trans shifted an inch or so toward the rear bumper. Jacked up with a wood 2 by 4 at the arm from engine to rear mount. This shifted engine and trans forward so all mounts lined up and could install and tighten all engine mount bolts and nuts.

 

[POSGUY]

Maybe ill do the rear this on Sunday in my mechanics parking lot, this way if I mess up too bad he can push it in on Monday to fix my mistake.

 

[nwf_snake]

Rear Mount Complete!

Tackled the rear mount yesterday. Took me almost 5 hours, but I never work very fast. The Ody does now shift and go into gears a lot quieter with no clunks anymore.

The one thing I did on the rear mount was to use a bunch (3) of my 1/2" extension bars and a u-joint to loosen and remove the long 17mm thru-bolt on the mount. You will need almost 3 feet of extensions, but I already had a 2 foot extension I use to remove crank bolts on Honda engines so I just added two 6 inch extension and a u-joint to the front of it and it was long enough. With the right front wheel off, you can rest the bars on the little bracket that holds the break line on the strut, and then insert them all the way into the bolt head. I had to get under the van to attach the 6-point socket to the bolt, then go by the wheel and use my breaker bar to loosen it using a little forward pressure to keep the socket firmly seated on the bolt head. I then just used my cordless impact to remove it the rest of the way. My cordless impact is only good for about 100 ft-lbs of torque and couldn't budge it, especially with the three extensions and u-joint I had to use. Much easier and fast than trying to wrench it from underneath.

Thanks again for posting the procedure on all the mounts, hope I am good for at least another 80K now!

This thread should be stickied also as engine mounts are another big Honda maintenance item (at least on every Honda we have owned with over 100K miles!).

 

[Gregory Bender]

Hi nwf_snake,

I'm glad to hear it went well for you and that you got it done. Hope you enjoy the rest of your holiday weekend :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender

 

[supraturbo94]

How much engine movement is normal?

We've been getting some light clunking from the front end, mostly bump-related, so I decided to check the motor mounts. I've replaced both strut assemblies (after a spring broke while driving!), swaybar endlinks, and ball joints in the last couple months, and the tie rods seem ok, so that's why I thought motor mounts. Doing the engine movement test, I'd say it moves up to an inch front to back, and there's movement in the rear, front and side mounts (tranny mounts seem ok). Any way to tell which, if any, need to be replaced?

The van is a 2000 with 155k miles on it (still on original tranny), so I'm sure none of the mounts are 100%, but I'm trying not to throw too much unnecessary time and money at it...