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DIY option for Muzzling that pesky VCM on your Ody

34K views 49 replies 22 participants last post by  Alec-BL 
#1 ·
Hello all, I am a bit of a DIY er so I thought I would put together a short DIY video on how to disable the Honda VCM "feature" for a 2005 5o 2010 Odyssey.Most of


the research I did was based on content that is in this conversation on the Honda Odyssey web site. https://www.odyclub.com/threads/vcm-a-better-way-to-disable.234113/
This is a good resource to understand the development of the VCMuzzler. https://www.piloteers.org/threads/vcm-disable-a-new-and-better-way.70873/ VCM FAQ . https://www.odyclub.com/threads/vcmuzzler-ii-for-disabling-vcm-faqs.268778/
If you dont want to do this DIY you can purchase an easily installable kit for a small amount hear. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Honda-Acura-VCM-Disable-Kit-Pilot-Accord-Ridgeline-Odyssey-Muzzle-Delete-3-5L-/173827018067?oid=171729581043
 
#2 ·
Thanks for doing and posting your video. I just watched it. I have two suggestions for improvement. You should mention the big issues with VCM and why disabling it is necessary.That It causes piston ring failure, misfires, excessive oil consumption and premature failure of engine mounts. My second suggestion is to mention that VCM is only on the EX-L and Touring models of Odyssey.
 
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#3 ·
....My second suggestion is to mention that VCM is only on the EX-L and Touring models of Odyssey.
Vehicles equipped with VCM
 
#7 ·
My concern with this and the Muzzler in general is, it's not clear if this sensor it utilized by other systems (e.g. fuel mix ratio) and if there is any effect on them. I know the approach is to get just enough resistance to fool the computer to thinking the temperature is just below the threshold that keeps the VCM from engaging. I have found that ambient temperature and engine workload played a significant part. So you're either constantly changing or dialing in different resistances, having the value to always be far below the threshold, or allowing that sometimes the VCM might engage, even if only momentarily. Considering it is no minor process to disengage half the pistons, I wonder if there might be another approach, something to simply disconnect that is specific to only the VCM. Is this simple? Yes. Have I found it to be without issue? No. I did have to go up to 100 ohms to ensure the VCM stays off, but that might change come summer. And I don't know if it is overkill and if that might be having detrimental effect to the engine.
 
#8 ·
Your concerns are unfounded. There are new muzzler devices that are fool proof and there are no ill effects from muzzling VCM in this manner. Consequences would be far worse to not disable VCM. I have the original 82 ohm VCM muzzler device and my VCM has never come on as far as I can tell.
 
#9 · (Edited)
There are other ways to disable VCM - the problem is that they all immediately throw a Check Engine light. Manipulating the output of ECT1 is the only known way to do it without chucking a code.

The O2 sensors are the primary means of determining air/fuel mixture. They, along with the PCM, generally work to keep the AFR as efficient as possible.

There are times when it's necessary to intentionally allow a very rich fuel mixture, such as a cold engine start. When you turn the key in the ignition, the PCM is programmed to dump a bunch of fuel into the engine and ignore the O2 sensors (whose readouts would normally cause the PCM to flag the inefficiency and try to correct it) just long enough to get the engine started and running smoothly. As soon as the PCM determines that the engine has successfully started and is running, it starts listening to the O2 sensors again to maintain as efficient an air/fuel ratio as possible.

The engine computer does not continue to dump extra fuel into the engine until the coolant reaches a certain temperature. This has been observed and verified by OBD II scanners reading real-time fuel trim and AFR data (including on my own 2015 Ody).

There is absolutely no evidence I am aware of that muzzling VCM causes mechanical problems over the long term. If there were, God knows we would have heard about it here by now. People come to forums like this when troubles arise and never hesitate to piss and moan and wail about every little affliction their van suffers. We've heard nothing. Muzzling VCM only prevents problems.
 
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#10 ·
thscott and Cromath, so then if I have to go to say, 120ohms to get the VCM to stop engaging, this won't be a problem? I have plenty of resistors, found a seller on eBay that selles various sizes in packs of 10 reasonably priced, and use electrical connectors so I can swap them out easy.
 
#11 ·
It's possible to force the reported coolant temperature too low - that will cause a Check Engine light and corresponding trouble code. But given that you would know where the trouble lies and understand that there isn't a "real" mechanical problem, you can back off the resistance, clear the code and you're back in business.

If you're planning on having a variety of resistors, why not consider a Max Muzzler from @maxud. It has a potentiometer that makes fine tuning the resistance a breeze. Easier than swapping for sure.
 
#13 ·
It is, but at $125 USD, no one who is looking at doing it DIY for $25-35 is going to be interested in going that way.

If a person didn't want to step up to the price point of the S-VCM controller or VCMTuner II, the Max Muzzler is a great choice at a more palatable price.
 
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#15 ·
If you want a VCMuzzler II, you'll get a better price by messaging @verbatim on Odyclub. You can avoid eBay's fees that way. Similarly, if you are looking for a Max Muzzler, send a message to @maxud here as well.
 
#18 ·
[QUOTE = "CroMath, сообщение: 2360647, участник: 742841»]
Да. Важно различать фактическую температуру охлаждающей жидкости и указанную температуру охлаждающей жидкости. Любое отключающее устройство VCM не влияет на фактическую температуру охлаждающей жидкости; это только изменяет то, что сообщается PCM, фактически вводя PCM в заблуждение, думая, что охлаждающая жидкость круче, чем она есть на самом деле.

Датчик ECT1 представляет собой термистор NTC, поэтому его электрическое сопротивление уменьшается при повышении температуры. Таким образом, вставив дополнительный резистор между датчиком и PCM, мы искусственно повышаем сопротивление в цепи, которую PCM интерпретирует как более низкую температуру. Чем выше сопротивление, тем ниже сообщаемая температура от ECT1. Но поскольку здесь можно получить слишком много хорошего, если сопротивление становится слишком высоким, PCM считает, что охлаждающая жидкость остается слишком холодной, и выдает код. Поэтому мы пытаемся отрегулировать сопротивление таким образом, чтобы PCM видел температуру охлаждающей жидкости достаточно высокой, чтобы не вызывать предупреждение, но достаточно низкой, чтобы предотвратить активацию VCM.
[/ QUOTE]
82oM
 
#19 ·
[QUOTE = "CroMath, сообщение: 2360647, участник: 742841»]
Да. Важно различать фактическую температуру охлаждающей жидкости и указанную температуру охлаждающей жидкости. Любое отключающее устройство VCM не влияет на фактическую температуру охлаждающей жидкости; это только изменяет то, что сообщается PCM, фактически вводя PCM в заблуждение, думая, что охлаждающая жидкость круче, чем она есть на самом деле.

Датчик ECT1 представляет собой термистор NTC, поэтому его электрическое сопротивление уменьшается при повышении температуры. Таким образом, вставив дополнительный резистор между датчиком и PCM, мы искусственно повышаем сопротивление в цепи, которую PCM интерпретирует как более низкую температуру. Чем выше сопротивление, тем ниже сообщаемая температура от ECT1. Но поскольку здесь можно получить слишком много хорошего, если сопротивление становится слишком высоким, PCM считает, что охлаждающая жидкость остается слишком холодной, и выдает код. Поэтому мы пытаемся отрегулировать сопротивление таким образом, чтобы PCM видел температуру охлаждающей жидкости достаточно высокой, чтобы не вызывать предупреждение, но достаточно низкой, чтобы предотвратить активацию VCM.
[/ QUOTE]
82oM
"The ECT1 sensor is an NTC thermistor, so its electrical resistance decreases with increasing temperature. Thus, inserting an additional resistor between the sensor and PCM, we artificially increase the resistance in the circuit, which PCM interprets as a lower temperature. The higher the resistance, the lower the reported temperature from ECT1. But since you can get too much good here if the resistance gets too high, PCM considers that the coolant stays too cold and issues a code. Therefore, we are trying to adjust the resistance so that the PCM sees the temperature of the coolant high enough not to cause a warning, but low enough to prevent the activation of the VCM."
 
#20 ·
To each his / her own, but I'm not a fan of this DIY approach. I don't like the idea of cutting into the wiring harness and or that it would not be easy to undo for maintenance procedures or easy to change the resistance if needed (ECO light starts coming back on or codes are thrown for too low of a temperature).

After 1 year and 15K miles I have no complaints with the VCMTUNER II and really like that I could just install and forget about it knowing that it will automatically disable itself to account for maintenance procedures and I will know right away should there be an overheating condition with my van.
 
#23 ·
To each his / her own, but I'm not a fan of this DIY approach. I don't like the idea of cutting into the wiring harness and or that it would not be easy to undo for maintenance procedures or easy to change the resistance if needed (ECO light starts coming back on or codes are thrown for too low of a temperature).

After 1 year and 15K miles I have no complaints with the VCMTUNER II and really like that I could just install and forget about it knowing that it will automatically disable itself to account for maintenance procedures and I will know right away should there be an overheating condition with my van.
I bought a VCM kit on eBay for $30 that has the right connectors, terminal ends, wires and resistors to avoid cutting into any wiring. What I really bought was those connectors because I do not like the idea of cutting into under-hood wiring, and this kit solved the problem. You can get potentiometers from various sources if you want to exchange the fixed resistor for a variable one. MPJA on line has an inexpensive one that will work, as did eBay.
 
#21 ·
one issue is making sure it’s not noticeable either so you don’t get ? On it if emissions notices. Probably never happen, but tampering will fail you if noticed. Still, with a resistor costing maybe 50c, I’m going to solder into the wire. The variable knob sounds nice too. Dial up or down a dozen or two ohms depending on season. Also dirt cheap and easily added to the wire mod. IF you’re good w wires n solder. Putting mine in soon. 100 ohm resistor on deck. It’s easy enough to fiddle if it acts up. But if you’re not good w soldering and wiring, go pre-packaged.
 
#28 ·
Hey rockingruvin. Have you installed yours yet? I'm interested in how your variable system works out. Hear I. Indiana we don't have vehicle inspection to be concerned about but I still decided to hide mine In the wire loom. Do you plan on running wires so you can adjust from the cabin? So far mine is working flawlessly and I have to say the vehicle drives better without it engaging. It might be my imagination but it seems far smoother around town.
 
#22 ·
Soldering isn't an issue for me and I'm not worried about emission testing - they don't even open the hood here anymore and simply just plug into the OBD II port to make sure there are no active codes and it is in a ready to test state.

My primary concern is I wanted something I could install and forget about, and get notice of any overheating condition as early as would be the case with the standard factory configuration. My wife primarily drives the Odyssey and I knew she wasn't likely to notice the ECO light if it started coming back on.

Since getting the VCMTUNER II I've noticed when there is a 36F change (162F to 198F) in temperature registered at the OBD II port as the VCMTUNER II enters maintenance mode, there is absolutely no change in the position of the temperature gauge needle on the dash. Because of this, an overheating condition would not be noticed nearly as soon from the temperature gauge if a passive resistor device is used to disable VCM.

I know resistors are cheap, but to me the advantages of the active solutions such as VCMTUNER II or S-VCM are worth the cost.
 
#25 ·
So let me get this straight: Verbatim has a proven, workable solution to getting rid of VCM for a reasonable price... That I and many, many others can absolutely vouch works as advertised... That is available from eBay as well as Verbatim... That doesn't involve cutting wires, changing anything permanently on your van, and is literally a three minute installation thing... And there are folks here considering something else?

Mmmmm... Why?

I don't mind someone coming up with a better mousetrap, but this ain't it. If you want to make a compelling alternative, make it as good as, or better, than the best existing option.
But, whatever. There's a lot of silly folks out there, and a lot of pseudo-experts in everything. They just can't comprehend not having to reinvent the wheel...
 
#27 ·
So let me get this straight: Verbatim has a proven, workable solution to getting rid of VCM for a reasonable price... That I and many, many others can absolutely vouch works as advertised... That is available from eBay as well as Verbatim... That doesn't involve cutting wires, changing anything permanently on your van, and is literally a three minute installation thing... And there are folks here considering something else?

Mmmmm... Why?

I don't mind someone coming up with a better mousetrap, but this ain't it. If you want to make a compelling alternative, make it as good as, or better, than the best existing option.
But, whatever. There's a lot of silly folks out there, and a lot of pseudo-experts in everything. They just can't comprehend not having to reinvent the wheel...
Because $20 is not $90.
 
#32 · (Edited)
(EDIT 3-27-2020)
I now see "infinitime" has deleted his photos, instructions, and different ideas.

I hope it wasn't because of my response here.
(/EDIT)

I appreciate your thoughts and efforts, as I believe the more people who do so improve everything in our lives.

So, this comment in no way is meant to diminish your efforts

But I think we are over-engineering the wheel here.
(Just a saying)
Ever seen some of the AMAZING wheels NASA has come up with?




I don't get this thinking.

What in the world is more convenient than (properly) installing a single ($0.60) resistor and then going on about your life?

I mean seriously, you can even install this thing on either (of the 2) wires, and it can even be installed backwards!

This is beyond simple!

It never again has to be seen, looked at, played with, turned off, fiddled with, ever!

Why would someone play around with different settings / resistors / switches when a single resistor covers all?

(Unless, of course, you WANT cylinder deactivation)

Why would someone pay big $$$$$ and then switch it off?

(I believe) The simplest solution in this case is the cheapest and the best.

And to tell you the truth, whomever is manufacturing and selling these things would be in real danger should the govt determine they are selling items that circumvent emissions

(My opinion, and maybe the law)
Installing a device that tells (tricks) your ECU into believing the engine NEVER REACHES OPERATING TEMPERATURE is illegal in every US State.

I'm surprised this hasn't happened yet.

If Jegs, Autozone, NAPA, or Summit tried to sell this they'd be in deep, deep, very expensive, doo-doo

I don't even know if they could get away with the "For Off Road Use Only" sticker on the box.

I do appreciate the brilliant original who recognized the problem, did the research, and came up with such an easy solution.

But making a finished harness with the proper OEM plugs on each end is really what you are paying for.

And really, if you are not even supplying that, and the user has to cut wires and solder anyway, why bother?
 
#42 ·
Anyone who wants DIY a muzzler, I have the connectors (05-06 versions) with all guts (purchased 10 pairs, made one for myself and another one for a friend), and have 8 for sale.

$5 plus shipping, you will have to find a proper resistor for your vehicle, mine was 118 Ohm.

PM if you are interested, you will get everything pictured.

Font Auto part Fashion accessory Machine Art
 
#43 ·
Anyone who wants DIY a muzzler, I have the connectors (05-06 versions) with all guts (purchased 10 pairs, made one for myself and another one for a friend), and have 8 for sale.

$5 plus shipping, you will have to find a proper resistor for your vehicle, mine was 118 Ohm.

PM if you are interested, you will get everything pictured.

View attachment 167680
I'm imterested, but I just joined, can you PM me?
 
#47 · (Edited)
No reason to panic. Just muzzle your VCM. Read the first post in the VCM Mega Thread sticky at the top of this forum.
No need to make your own, just buy one of the many quality muzzler devices available. They are not that expensive; around $100.

 
#49 ·
I have found a method for making a muzzler without having to buy a bunch of expensive male ect connectors. I was looking at hondaparts, and all they have are the female harnesses. However, one place that a female harnesses shocked me and I couldn't believe how easy it is to get. The front marker light socket has the same male connector as the ect. I got all the connectors I needed from a pair of first gen pilots at the junkyard since they didn't have any odys or similar vintage accords or civics.

Also, if anyone wants a site for resistors that have no outrageous shipping costs, check out ledsupply.com. They have great customer service, and free shipping. They don't have the 150 ohm, but the other four sizes included in a vcmuzzler pack are there.

Just wanted to provide some information for any diyers out there.
 
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