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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, my 2007 odyssey ex-l drive belt tensioner bolt broke @136000. I had timing belt and drive belt change 4.5years ado @88590. If I get the bolt out, I am still worried if the timing belt jump a gear. Can you help me determine the health of the timing belt? It starts up and runs. No belt and drive tensioner so battery dies. I am worried about engine internals.

tensione bolt must have worked itself loose then broke (last little bit of thread in engine block)

kind thanks
 

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Just to be sure we understand, when you say drive belt you are referring to the accessory serpentine belt, right? The belt that runs the alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump...
If so, is your concern with the timing belt that the broken bolt may have fallen into the tming belt mechnism causing it to skip a tooth or damage the belt?

I would think this is very unlikely. The fact that your engine runs just fine indicates to me that your timing is spot on.
 

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The timing belt is enclosed and protected by covers.

Whatever fell off the accessory belt tensioner would have no effect on the timing belt. You can rest easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@thscott and @dave, thank you so much for responded

Yes, I am specially saying my serpentine belt can off (not broke), when the serpentine belt tensioner “Granaided” while driving. The loan bolt in the center of pulley snapped. If I can get that bolt out, I just need new SERP belt and SERP tensioner.

I am still worried (but feel better thanks a ton guys) that the internal timing belt might have jump and could be a tooth or two off and therefore could cause major damage

Does my concern/question make sense?
I’d love to read more feedback on how I can be relatively certain the internal timing belt did not suffer any trauma as the serp belt and tensioner came apart (there was some grinding and smoke temporarily) from under the hood. I was able to drive home 1mile and can still start in driveway and rev engine. Sounds ”okay”, but maybe a little rough cuz it’s cold and I had slight exhaust leak that gets quieter when all warmed up.

thanks again I really appreciate the replies!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Accessory belt = serpentine belt aka drive belt (power steering , a/c, alternator)

Serpentine Tensioner = takes up slack of drive belt (above), this part broke because the belt snapped off (threas stuck in engine block(

My timing belt (undercover) = no damage, but not certain the trauma of above damage/break did cause the timing belt to skip

this what I understand, am I?
Can you give me reasons why the timing belt should not also be looked at?
 

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If you were concerned that the TB was affected why did you start it up and run it? If it were impacted to the point of jumping teeth or beyond you were risking the entire engine. That said, if the TB cover is intact you are good to go. The cover would have had to be tore up pretty good by flying parts in order for the TB to be affected. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@pkrface, why did I start it up? Because I don’t know what I am doing/facing and if I have a 13 year old van to the stealership I’m gonna get a whopping bill. I know about interference engine. I drove it home 1 mile and wanna work on it in my driveway.

the internal damage, if any, would be from the drive/SERP belt getting fouled up temporary and grinding (smoke underhood). I heard some grinding and maybe some clicking sound. I shut off Engine, popped hood and figured out the SERP tensioner came apart (then I started up and drove home 1 mile). At that point I wasn’t thinking of internal damage, but now I am...

New engine or top internals (belt valves) might cost more than van is worth.

Forum feedback could save me $K and throwing good $ at bad situation.

I start the engine and hold my breath...now I am asking for how likely the timing belt could have jump. Not from external damage (cover), but from what I mentioned (the stress of the SERP belt and tensioner getting fouled up
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know that bolts and flying parts did not likely hurt timing belt cuz cover

I am worried about serpentine belt/tensioner “lockup” causing internal timing belt skip that could cause major internal damage after I get broken bolt out and replace SERP belt and tensioner.

$250 in parts and maybe $250 in labor, plus tow. So if I get that far and start to drive I worry some time down the road the timing belt my show itself to be wrong.

so how can i know without also paying to have the timing belt job done @40K miles
 

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Your serpentine belt is driven by the crankshaft pulley. That is driven by the pistons. Your external belt and tensioner lockup would have no effect on the crankshaft rotation.
As ThScott, DaveDrivesOdy and PkrFace are telling you, your fears are unfounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
@kernal, thank you that’s exactly what I don’t know and love to be educated on. I can do oil changes/spark plugs, but when it comes to internals I don’t know the basics as well as I should. So the “clicking” was not the timing belt jumping a teeth or two, great! I do appreciate everyone’s feedback.

the previous responses seemed to focus on a “flying bolt/debris” hurting the timing belt...I still have that broken belt...so again no external damage to timing cover...

I used this forum to get the confidence to replace alternator, that job was a bitch!! But i did it 3.5years ago
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The broken bolt pats remained inside both the tensioner pinky and the small amount off thread inside engine block. My fear damage was from lockup up while shit was breaking. There was grinding, clicking, small amount of smoke. I drove home out of panic and ignorance.

anyone know how to extract the bolt thread?
 

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There is the remains of the broken bolt to be removed! Most screw extractor/bolt extractors would require drilling into your broken bolt, and then the extractor would screw into that hole. I don't know if you have enough room to drill that pilot hole.
Something like this from Harbor Freight or similar from your area hardware store.
154637


btw Hansel- you can click the 3 dots on the right side of your message and then click Edit. You can edit and update your message instead of posting a second one!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again, i scrolled threw some threads and saw a photo of the top of an engine blow off!!! The discussion didn’t take long before the timing belt was brought up. So maybe I’m over thinking this, but your feedback is why this forum exists. Whoelse should I ask...the dealership? (Sarcasm)

thank you all, thank you @thscott/kernel for following up

@kernel, thanks for edit tip, my spelling/autocorrect has been terrible In this thread
 

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I have a car (Volvo S40) where failure of the drive belts (accessory belts) has been known to cause derailment of the timing belt and the associated damage. But I've never heard of that on an Odyssey.

As far as the broken bolt, post a picture!
 

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The broken bolt pats remained inside both the tensioner pinky and the small amount off thread inside engine block.
Actually, the broken tip of the bolt in the block will probably come out just by drilling it with a left hand bit. It should be loose in there.

Heck, it might even come out by crazy gluing a stick onto it.

BTW skip the local hardware store for the replacement bolt; get the correct one from Honda. Also, get the correct torque on it when putting it back together.
 

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I used a 90 degree drill and left-handed drill bits when mine broke. Take your time, center punch the bolt first before drilling. Its not easy but it has been done by several. And 100% buy the correct bolt from Honda. Search for the purge procedures when installing the new bolt and tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@72triple, purge procedure? Is that a typo? What would need purging? Torquing yes!

I will be buying new tensioner (fluid leaks cuz rubber boot is damaged) and new bolt and SERP belt (All Honda OEM parts for sure)

@davedrivesody, thanks for the crazy glue tip, I hope the broken thread is loose, since that’s how this mess all started. The bolt worked itself loose so it’s makes sense the thread left behind should come out
 

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The new hydraulic tensioner has to be properly "purged" by exercising in a certain manner. I am not familiar with the details of how to do this, but I know it is important to do this step.
 

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I will be buying new tensioner (fluid leaks cuz rubber boot is damaged) and new bolt
Looks like the bolt comes with the tensioner assembly...
Alternator Bracket for 2007 Honda ODYSSEY 5-DOOR #0
 
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