you don't have to tell me to search again because I have been searching long enough then 0 results that why I ask every one here.cpoups said:Canadian models have DRL's. If you have a problem with them then do a search. DRL problems are common with these odys. The fixes are all disscused if you do a search. I had to fix mine.
ody05res said:OK. Here's the write up for the DRL. It took a while since I now document everything I do on my cars. This is to prevent the "what in the world is this wire for!" six months from now.
As for the DRL, it works great. The high beam come on around 15s after the ignition comes on and will shut off about 30s after the ignition is turned off. BTW, I also verified that the light output is dimmer than 100% at DRL mode (tested in the garage)
-I used the fog light instructions to help me remove the fuse/relay box. It is much more descriptive than the instructions in the service manual.
-The DRL connection was simple but finding the taps was a challenge. If I had to do it all over, I might look at the driver side headlight connections. It might be easier to get at. The drawback is that the wire run for the headlights will be much longer. The actual connection to the ignition wire was easy once I found the connection. I also spent an hour disassembling and reassembling the sub-fuse assembly before deciding to just put a fuse on top instead of tapping an existing wire. The headlight taps took over 30 minutes because they were so hard to reach. If I had removed the anchor next to the low beam connector, it might have saved 10-15 minutes.
-At the last minute, I decided to not risk having any problems so I made a trip to Radio Shack to get a four conductor quick disconnect. This is so I can isolate the DRL unit and can replace it with another one if I ran into problems. As I note later, this is much better solution anyway in that I can now remove the cover together with the DRL unit. It added about 30 minutes since I had to put the connectors on after the wires were connected (in the engine compartment). If I had decided to do this from the beginning, I would have made the connections first before tapping the wires (which would have saved my back). But it's worth it since it's so much more professional looking now.
-The factory DRL (From Honda service manual) shows a relay going to the high beam (factory DRL uses high beam also). The differences between factory DRL and non-DRL vans are one relay, two fuses and some wires.
-The relay control module is the first connection from the ignition switch (key) in the engine compartment. It is the yellow wire going to connector "K". No need to run a wire through the firewall. This is impossible to find without the service manual.
-The headlight taps are straight forward. I used the service manual but it's easy to guess that it's not the black wire. There are only two wires per bulb. BTW, the 2005 is a common ground (switched 12V) system.
DRL Red - +12 (direct connection to subfuse box)
DRL blue - Ignition (yellow wire going to connector "K" in fuse/relay box)
DRL white - Right low beam (red/green)
DRL orange - Right high beam (white/green)
The installation pictorial:
Before the installation. Note the white fuse puller in the middle. It came in very handy since I had to pull the fuse a few time while it was hot. I probably wouldn’t electrocute myself by touching the 12v line but there’s no reason to test it. There are two spare fuses in the upper left hand corner but no 20A (another trip to the store).
The fog light instruction said slide the relay box to the side. You have to lift the box to clear this hook.
This is the underside of the ruse/relay box. The connector that's disconnected is connector "K". The ignition wire is the yellow wire with silver bands. It’s hard to see because there’s a big glob of grease on every one of the connector. Hint, don’t wipe away any of the grease! It's there to prevent corrosion.
A better picture of the ignition tap
This is the +12 tap/wire. If I can find a source for the subfuse box connector (like the one that comes with the fog lamps), I wouldn’t have to use this kludge. But for now, I used a dike to nip away the plastic corner of a 20A fuse and soldered a wire directly to the fuse
Here is the tap to the high beam connector. The low beam is easy to get at but difficult to tap since there's an anchor about three inches away from the connector. I didn't remove the anchor so I installed the tap with one hand while holding a flash light with the other. The high beam connector is extremely difficult to reach even with the brake reservoir out of the way. But once the connector is removed, there's enough slack to bring it out in the open to install the tap
I installed a Radio Shack four conductor quick disconnect (thanks to the problem I had with the first installation on my test car) so that I can disconnect the DRL unit from the wiring harness. This worked out nicely I mounted the DRL on the "FI-ECU" cover and will allow the cover to be removed with the DRL. This is the how everything looked before I snapped the fuse in the sub fuse box
With the fuse plugged in
A close up of the fuse box. Note that the fuse spot I used and the one on the right of it are unused so I can still install the factory accessories like fog light etc on the left of the 10A fuse.
Here's where the wire routes out of the subfuse box. After I put everything together, I felt uneasy about the wire so close to the un-insulated 12V line so I put a small wire loom wrapper around the red wire to give it more insulation from the 12V wire. Initially, I thought of wrapping some black electrical tapes around the wire but I saw this piece of wire loom in my pile of junk and used that instead. I did not take a picture of the wire loom over the wire.
This is how the wires looked before I tied-wrapped the wires down
I drilled a couple of holes in the "FI-ECU" cover, put double-sided tapes in back of the DRL and finished it off with a large tie-wrap. Note that I decided to keep the included 20A fuse even though I already have a 20A fuse in the fuse block already. If I had found a tap that I can snap in the bottom of the subfuse box, I would not have kept this fuse
Everything put back together