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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '13 with 82k miles. At what point do I need to worry about the cylinder deactivation issues / ECO mode? I know guys say you should get the muzzler but there are a ton of these on the road with no issues. I keep the van well maintained by the dealer and have a good extended warranty. If any drivetrain issues arise, I am sure they will bill it under the warranty.
 

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How lucky do you feel? You have a van from the era that Honda recognized the problem was frequent enough that they extended the warranty to 8 years/120K miles if the problem should develop. Because the VCM II system operates based on parameters that mean the amount of activation time varies widely from one van to the next, how much yours has been activated is anybody's guess, but the bottom line is a year from now or less Honda will have wiped their hands of responsibility for your van and it's all on you. If you are about done with it then don't bother, but if you plan to keep it another 5-10 years and 100K+ miles do you want to take the chance that you need major engine work when it could be prevented?
 

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On the VCM-2 models, which is what you have, the complaints about fouled plugs and misfires start rolling in around 70K miles, sometimes earlier. Some people are lucky and the problem never gets bad enough for them to notice, but the problem is still there. The system is not flawless on ANYBODY's VCM-2 Odyssey even if they don't notice a problem.

If you are going to sell the van after the warranty expires, doesn't matter. If you plan on keeping it long term, disable the VCM.
 

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I purchased my 2011 with under 50k miles and the muzzling it was the first thing I did.
 

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2015 Touring, bought one year back with ultra low mileage. Even so, first thing I did was ordered a VCM Tuner II unit from vcmtuner.com before even getting WeatherTech mat and dashcams. Took 15 minutes or so to install it, not at all hard. Majority of the time I spent was to find a better positioning of the bracket that holds the unit. No intervention at all, and the instructions state there is possibly some enhancements in the future. Cost is about USD 125 incl shipping. Never seen the eco light even once. Also not seen any drop in fuel economy too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. Vcmtuner has it for 80 plus 5 for shipping. I think I will go this route.
 

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My 2008 has 17x,xxx miles
I have installed the vcmuzzler, uninstalled it, reinstalled it, and uninstalled it again.
While it’s installed, the eco light stays off but gas mileage isn’t quite as good.
When the vcmuzzler is not installed, the amount of burned up oil is significantly higher...
I’m not sure the mileage is that much different to warrant the vcm feature but (quite literally): YMMV.


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My 2008 has 17x,xxx miles
I have installed the vcmuzzler, uninstalled it, reinstalled it, and uninstalled it again.
While it’s installed, the eco light stays off but gas mileage isn’t quite as good.
When the vcmuzzler is not installed, the amount of burned up oil is significantly higher...
I’m not sure the mileage is that much different to warrant the vcm feature but (quite literally): YMMV.


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Leave it enabled, and be sure save your gas savings money for the repairs...
 

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2013 Odyssey Touring, 2018 Volvo V60
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I have a '13 with 82k miles. At what point do I need to worry about the cylinder deactivation issues / ECO mode? I know guys say you should get the muzzler but there are a ton of these on the road with no issues. I keep the van well maintained by the dealer and have a good extended warranty. If any drivetrain issues arise, I am sure they will bill it under the warranty.
I have a 2013 and issues first appeared at around 95k miles. Dealer serviced for it's entire life. Replaced plugs, happened again after about 4k-5k miles. Same cylinder. Replaced plugs, muzzled, and it's been good for the last 12k miles and counting.
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Thanks guys. Vcmtuner has it for 80 plus 5 for shipping. I think I will go this route.
That's probably the original VCMTuner, which will work, but it requires adjustment during season changes and doesn't disable VCM 100% of the time.
 
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That's probably the original VCMTuner, which will work, but it requires adjustment during season changes and doesn't disable VCM 100% of the time.
I must have the original...seems the eco light still comes on occasionally


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I must have the original...seems the eco light still comes on occasionally


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Yeah. The VCM Tuner II does everything automatically and disables VCM 100% of the time.
 

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Must be a different resistor...(?)

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VCMTUNER II is an active device, not a passive resistor device. I started a thread when I installed mine which may be useful: VCMTuner II

When looking at the temperature with my OBDII scan tool (what the ECM sees as the coolant temperature), while the engine is fully warmed up the VCMTUNER II seems to put a resistance on the circuit equivalent to a constant 162F.

After sitting idling parked for a few minutes, maintenance mode kicks in and it then passes the actual the ECT1 resistance value unmodified and so the temperature on the scan tool jumps up to show the actual, which when I tested was 198F. This is needed for certain service procedures such as idle relearns.

When you start driving again and the temperature shown drops straight back down to 162F. When the engine is warming up or there is an overheating condition the ECM also will receive the unmodified ECT1 resistance value.

The different passive resistor devices add a fixed resistor value to the that of the ECT1 sensor, so the ECM always sees the temperature as lower than it actually is, and in certain conditions where the coolant temp is a bit higher than normal, the temperature can be seen as exceeding 167F and VCM can come on and you see the ECO light.
 

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VCMTUNER II is an active device, not a passive resistor device. I started a thread when I installed mine which may be useful: VCMTuner II

When looking at the temperature with my OBDII scan tool (what the ECM sees as the coolant temperature), while the engine is fully warmed up the VCMTUNER II seems to put a resistance on the circuit equivalent to a constant 162F.

After sitting idling parked for a few minutes, maintenance mode kicks in and it then passes the actual the ECT1 resistance value unmodified and so the temperature on the scan tool jumps up to show the actual, which when I tested was 198F. This is needed for certain service procedures such as idle relearns.

When you start driving again and the temperature shown drops straight back down to 162F. When the engine is warming up or there is an overheating condition the ECM also will receive the unmodified ECT1 resistance value.

The different passive resistor devices add a fixed resistor value to the that of the ECT1 sensor, so the ECM always sees the temperature as lower than it actually is, and in certain conditions where the coolant temp is a bit higher than normal, the temperature can be seen as exceeding 167F and VCM can come on and you see the ECO light.
VERY interesting! Thanks!!


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