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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi there,

So I've actually been having this issue since I first bought the car about March 2018. The low beam headlights were flickering quite badly. We took it back to the dealer, and they replaced the bulbs and said they'd fixed the issue. It seemed to have worked.

A few months later, I noticed that sometimes the car engine would shut off if I went over any bumps, so I checked the battery, and found that the negative lead was slightly loose, so I tightened it and it didn't happen again. About 4 months ago, the headlights started flickering to the point that the bulbs blew, and I replaced them, and even after replacing them I am still getting the flickering. I have also noticed that sometimes the hazard lights will suddenly come on for a single tick. Then a few days ago, the driver side speaker died.

Could this be an issue with the alternator? I heard online that if the negative lead is removed from the battery when the engine is running, that it should still run and not shut off the engine. I don't know if the alternator has ever been replaced. Can a bad alternator kill my speakers?

I have a Odyssey DBA-RB1 2004. It's the Japanese version.
 

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The flickering headlights could well be caused by a failing alternator so get checked. If it is still under any warranty , get it checked by the dealer you bought it from.
Could also be a bad engine or body ground connection.
The main ground goes from the neg terminal battery cable to the frame the radiator is mounted on.
Then there is a grounding wire (same one you are supposed to connect the neg cable to when getting a battery jump) going from that radiator frame mount to the engine block.
Next there is a common grounding point in the engine compartment next to the WW reservoir and on the fender that has several small wires going to it. These are easy to check but usually with a loose ground, you will get a LOT more dash warning lights happening.
Best bet would be to get the alternator checked out. Checking the grounds I suggested is pretty easy and free, so do that also.
I think the speaker failing was just a speaker failing and most likely not related to the voltage fluctuations.
Buffalo4
 

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This would be a Japanese Odyssey with right hand drive, an evolution of what we call first generation.
Toaster12 is in the Uk, Ireland, Australia, or maybe New Zealand?

In any case, I do think you should have the alternator checked, all connections checked.
You say the negative battery cable was loose. You can buy little lead caps for battery posts (they call them shims) that allow old clamp on cables to work better. In no case is it a good idea to cut off the clamp end and replace it. Those things rarely make good enough connections for modern electronic controlled vehicles. As suggested above, look to where the negative cable connects to the body and make sure that connection is good.
The speaker could not be related. I frequent another Honda forum where Japanese models are often imported to right hand drive countries. Those folks usually have to replace the audio/navigation system because there is just no way to translate the display. A 2007 might not have those issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi and thanks!

I am living in Japan. I had read about the caps for the battery terminals, but struggled to find them here last I checked.

I'm buying a multimeter, so I will check the battery, alternator and grounding to see if everything is as it should be - I don't want to replace the alternator if it just turns out to be a loose wire somewhere.
 

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Buy a very low cost voltage gauge that plugs into the cigarette lighter (acc power outlet) and you will be able to monitor the voltage in real time. Very low cost.
Here is an example of what I am talking about, not a recommendation of any single item.
Just to show you what I am talking about.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks - I ended up getting a multimeter, because I have a few other uses for it.

I checked the battery, and got a reading of 12.5 with the engine off, 14.1 at idle, and 14.5 when I revved up to about 2000rpm- 3000rpm. So according to that, I'm guessing the alternator is delivering the correct amount of power. I tried checking the grounding, I checked a few places from the battery to the engine block, and to the alternator, but seemed to be getting continuity between them. I guess there could be grounding issues occurring with the headlights themselves? The speaker could just be coincidence I suppose? Do the lighting systems use the same grounding point? What else could I check?

edit:
I wonder if it could be the belt? It doesn't have any cracks, though I do get a little bit of a squeak sometimes when I start the car in the morning for about 5 seconds. The belt tension seems okay though.

I also found what I think is the grounding point for the lights, and I was getting continuity to the battery. I can't really check the low beam cable specifically right now though - takes too long to get at them, and I need to use the car soon.

Could it perhaps be a grounding issue to the dash and controls? It would explain why the hazard lights sometimes randomly come on.

I noticed that when I did a volt test across the battery, and then took the negative test lead and put it to the engine block, I had no drop - the readings were exactly the same. However, when I put the multimeter to resistance, and ran the test leads from the negative terminal, to the engine block, I did seem to be getting a 0.4 reading. Not sure if that means anything.
 

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I get a reading of 14.2 to 14.3 volts whether I am idling or have the engine at 3k rpm.
The reason I suggested that you get a real time meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket is that you will be able to glance at it any time you are using the ODY to see it it might be an intermittent problem.
Using a multi- meter won't easily allow you to do that.
The charging voltage should be the same at idle or high rpm unless the battery is failing, you have a lot of current draw. (rear window defroster, heated seats on, headlights on, etc) or the alternator is getting weak.
When you had that 0.4 reading was the engine running?
Actually that shouldn't really make a difference. 0.4 ohms is a pretty low resistance but I really don't know if the is within specs or not. Just holding the leads on the block in an imperfect contact surface can easily do that.
When you did the voltage test across the battery and from the battery to the engine block, was the engine running?
Buffalo4
PS: Buy that cheap cigarette lighter voltage meter.
 
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