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Discussion Starter #1
2006 touring. It shut off as if I turned the key off. Not like a fuel issue. The dash said something like charging system for a few seconds as I was coasting down but nothing related to the charging system seems to be an issue at the moment. Battery is new, alternator is new, plugs and other basic maintenance done recently when I got it. No similar issues or codes before.

The good:
No codes currently thrown or pending
All relays tested good
I can hear the fuel pump but havent actually pulled the line to verify pressure
Battery is new and has voltage, car turns over
My scan tool gets an RPM reading so crank sensor seems unlikely

The bad:
No spark. All fuses are intact and since the crank sensor is giving RPM I don't know what else would cause the ignition to be cut.
There is one fuse to blows every time the ignition is turned on but it seems unrelated. It's #5 in the secondary under-hood box, called "premium". I think thats related to the stereo or something but the radio and everything works just fine.

The question at this point would be what would cause the ignition to not fire but also throw no codes. I would assume a relay but like I said they are all working fine.
 

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What kind of scan tool are you using? Something like Foxwell that can scan individual modules?

How healthy is the cranking? No lights flickering?

BTW, are using the original key ? Can you try with another key. Wonder if the security system is triggering the issue.

Spark plug voltage and injectors, is originated from the ECU (as far as i can remember). Since the fuel pump is working, ECU should be good and it is communicating also.
 

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On another forum, a guy had a ignition coil fail that shorted out the common line that runs to all 6, longshot, but the offending coil was physically cracked when pulled. He discovered this while using a scope (Hantek 1008C) if it comes to that.

I do wonder though about crank and cam sensors, and if only one needs to be working for RPM readout, but both need to be ok for spark?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update. Took a few days for this post to be approved. Timing belt broke, even though I just replaced it in June with a Honda kit. It was something everyone thought about but we never checked since it was a brand new belt and the engine was turning over just fine which seemed impossible with it being an interference engine.

Well today I got a bore scope out and from the limited angles I have none of the pistons have any damage or signs of valve contact. Will install a new timing belt and see if it starts up and then do a compression check.

Now the real question is why the heck did a new belt kit fail? The tension and idler pully both are still turning just fine.The belt is so messed up from being half wound around the crank gear that it's hard to see if any damage happened before the breakage. I'm worried of putting a new belt on only for it to just break again in 1000 miles.

The exact guy I got my kit from on ebay doesnt look like hes selling them right now but it's identical to the one found here. Is it possible this is a knock off kit with fake Honda stickers all over it?
159677
 

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Absolutely. There have been too many cases of fake kits on eBay and Amazon, and I'd bet they have at least twice as many fakes than genuine kits. Buying a kit from there is pretty much gambling with your engine. This is why we recommend purchasing the Aisin kit from RockAuto. Did the belt break while the engine was idling or while driving? If it's the former, there may be a chance, albeit a slim one, that the valves may still be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Absolutely. There have been too many cases of fake kits on eBay and Amazon, and I'd bet they have at least twice as many fakes than genuine kits. Buying a kit from there is pretty much gambling with your engine. This is why we recommend purchasing the Aisin kit from RockAuto. Did the belt break while the engine was idling or while driving? If it's the former, there may be a chance, albeit a slim one, that the valves may still be good enough.

I was driving about 20mph when it just shut off relatively quietly, just like you turned the key off. I didn't hear any clunks from the engine for whatever thats worth.
After seeing the belt broke it was hard to believe that the engine had been turning over so many times as we were troubleshooting other things and not making contact. I was able to turn the crank and cams back to TDC and everything felt fine. A buddy had a timing belt for a previous gen odyssey that I was going to try and fit on there tomorrow to see if I can hand crank the engine over and see if theres any contact. If it fits I'll try and start it. How the pistons looked with the bore scope was promising.
 

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Avoid the kits from Fleabay and Amazoom. Too many fakes. Rock Auto Aisin kit is the way to go.
 

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Do a compression test. The valves bend pretty easy then get stuck in the valve guides, so that the engine will turn over, but will not run properly. It happened to me when a valve spring broke on my Lexus V6.
 

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You bought a counterfeit kit on EBay. Sadly, very common. Get the Aisin kit - nothing else. Buy it from Rock Auto - nowhere else.
You definitely have bent valves- no way for that not to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well my buddies belt from his 99 odyssey was too wide to fit to do a simple hand crank test so I’ll have to wait a few more days for my crap belt to arrive so I can do a interference test.

after I got the engine mount off I noticed the water pump leaking a lot of water when I spin it. It seems to be in axis but most likely under load it was wobbling or off axis which caused stress on the belt as well as the shaft seal. The pump was new but also came with my assumed knock off eBay Honda kit.
 

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The Aisin kit comes with a new water pump.
I feel bad for you knowing how much money or time you spent on labor for what you thought was a quality Honda timing belt kit (BTW, Honda does not sell such a kit) only to have the belt prematurely fail. Not only are you out that money, you have to pay to have it all done again, plus likely pay to fix your damaged engine.
It makes me so mad to know there are so many unscrupulous sellers on eBay, Amazon, Craig’s List, ... It truly is the Wild West out there. Lot’s of counterfeit parts being sold. Buyer beware.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, got a temporary timing belt on today and did a compression check. Results are:
1 - 160
2 - 160
3 - 160
4 - 0
5 - 145
6 - 152

0 seems a little low to me, going to have to pull the front head and investigate. At least its the front head and not the rear.
 

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Yeah, y'know, no big deal. Just a tad bit low there. :p

Though it is good that compression seems to be relatively consistent on all the other cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One thing I noticed as well when putting the temp belt on with the old components was that while the water pump is leaking like crazy, the tensioner pully wear marks (and current position of the belt) has the timing belt hanging about 1/16" - 1/8" off the pulley towards the engine. I played with the seating of the pulley bracket and sleeve to the water pump and it all seems to be correct. Not a lot I can really do there other than assume something was manufactured wrong. This might have played a role in the belt failure as well.

Since the engine seems to be salvageable, just expecting to replace a few bent valves on cylinder 4, I went ahead and got the Aisin kit on the way from rock auto. Will be able to compare components and see whats going on.
 

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This is about the 8th or 9th case since last year.

A guy at driveaccord.net just experienced the same thing on an Accord V6, using almost the same kit as you. Bent valves confirmed and he is probably scrapping the car now.

 

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Knowledge is power - that's why I love this forum. I learn so much.

Sadly I imagine most vehicle owners do not frequent forums for their vehicles. I imagine (guessing) that 90% of Honda owners don't know about VCM issues or the muzzler devices, counterfiet parts, Denso alternators, etc....
 
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