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Discussion Starter #1
99 Ody. 217k miles. Replaced ignition switch a while ago, maybe 100k ago. After reading the symptoms of bad ignition switch, it sounds like that could be the problem, but hear me out please.

Problem started a few days ago as reported by my wife. Weird combination of dash panel lights would come on and off. Engine died, restarted, drove a little bit further then died and wouldn't restart.

Now I took over. Jump started but died when starter battery pack removed. Strange combinations of dash lights were on. Made it home (1 or 2 miles) by leaving starter battery back connected laying on top of engine cover. Volt meter showed about 6 to 7 volts while running (rough) with out starter battery pack connected . OK, bad alternator. Wife said she never saw just the charging light on before all this happened.

Replaced with O'reilly brand (Ultima) reman. alternator. Car ran great. Problem solved. I thought. Drove it on a 70 mile round trip last night, no problem, except for one strange symptom. All the dash panel door open warning lights would occasionally flicker on for a fraction of a second.

Wife drove it today (maybe 50 miles). No reported problems as far as she knew.

I drove it again this evening. Made it maybe 5 miles and it briefly hesitated like it was going to die with a few dash lights coming on and speedo and tach briefly dropping to zero. Decided to turn around and head home and a few minutes later it died. I rolled into a parking lot where it is now and waited for someone to come get me afraid to try and drive it home. While waiting, started it right up a few times so I could have some A/C. I did notice the door ajar lights flicker while parked and idling so that sort of rules out road bumps causing the door ajar lights to flicker .

My first thought is I must have some sort of short that ultimately kills the alternator. Though charging light was not on while idling, so I believe alternator is still good. Will verify tomorrow with a VOM after I hopefully get it home with wife tailing behind me.

Then I thought I just might have two separate problems 1) a bad alternator that I have already fixed and 2) a failing ignition switch.

Posting this hoping to get some of the forums vast experience and a quick resolution.

Thanks,

Todd K.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am proceeding with a new ignition switch. I was able to get the switch to turn off while in the ON position if I bumped it just right. Call it a hysteresis developing in the switch. Dam it! Can't get one on Sunday though.
 

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Note that you may have a worn MECHANICAL portion of the ignition switch. My sister's 1999 van had the same issue. Replaced electrical portion and the problem persisted (it had already been changed once in the van's life). The mechanical part of the switch was so worn that it was causing the electrical portion to malfunction.

An easy way to troubleshoot this is to separate the electrical portion of the switch and leave it hanging down underneath the dash - use a screwdriver to turn it on and off. You will have to leave the key in the lock cylinder for the security system and also to unlock the steering wheel (with key removed from the lock cylinder, the security system will not allow the vehicle to be started).

If your problems disappear when the electrical portion is separated, then you know that the mechanical section is the culprit.
 
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I had the exact same problem, The dealer wouldn't change the ign switch because it has already been replaced. If you do not want to change you switch again in 4-5 years, then take a step to aftermarket switch. Because the dealer switch will just go to bed again in 4-5 years. I replaced mine with a Beck Arnley switch and no problem. Do it yourself.
 

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I had the exact same problem, The dealer wouldn't change the ign switch because it has already been replaced. If you do not want to change you switch again in 4-5 years, then take a step to aftermarket switch. Because the dealer switch will just go to bed again in 4-5 years. I replaced mine with a Beck Arnley switch and no problem. Do it yourself.
You mean to say, the dealer had already replaced it under the warranty so they wouldn't do it again for free. The early 2nd-gen Odys had a TSB for replacing the electrical portion of the switch.

As for where to get the part, there are several online parts places that use Worldpac as their source, and they usually supply OEM parts, often with the Honda labeling and part numbers right on the bag.
 

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Yep, they said it had already been replaced when I took it in. (for the electrical portion)
So they wanted to charge me for it.
So I just picked up a Beck Arnley Switch (elec. Portion) from my local auto parts store for 80 bucks and put it in my self. It's about 45-60 mins if its your first time under the dash.Nothing too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why the Beck Arnley? I am not familiar with that brand. Usually the aftermarkets are lower quality than OEM.
 

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Why the Beck Arnley? I am not familiar with that brand. Usually the aftermarkets are lower quality than OEM.
Who says aftermarket is lower quality than OEM?
If you know about parts then you know what you are buying yourself and what quality it is. If your OEM electrical portion of that switch is better than aftermarket, You would NOT have the issue you are having.
Pull out your spark plug and take a look at its country of origin. Then go to your local shop and purchase a DENSO Spark plug(part number should be listed under your hood somewhere, it is on mine) then look at it's country of origin. The "OEM" plug that you will have pulled out of your ody states that its "MADE IN USA" and the DENSO will state its "MADE IN JAPAN". Now go ask your neighbor which one might be worth putting in you ODY.
My point is: NOT ALL AFTERMARKET AUTO PARTS are of LESSER quality than OEM, IN FACT, THERE ARE PARTS OUT THERE NOW DAYs THAT ARE MUCH BETTER THAN THE OEM STUFF.
BUT I understand that there are some parts you should stick with OEM for.
 

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I had a similar problem. Changed the EGR valve and also replaced the upper intake manifold. When I took off the old valve cover the ports were almost totally clogged with carbon. I saw a video on YouTube on a guy who did the same work but took some carb cleaner and cleaned off the old cover. Why waste your time when the cover can be bought for $15.00? I did have to use the carb cleaner to clean out the ports on the block itself, but it runs great now.
 

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I had a similar problem. Changed the EGR valve and also replaced the upper intake manifold. When I took off the old valve cover the ports were almost totally clogged with carbon. I saw a video on YouTube on a guy who did the same work but took some carb cleaner and cleaned off the old cover. Why waste your time when the cover can be bought for $15.00? I did have to use the carb cleaner to clean out the ports on the block itself, but it runs great now.
I don't see the connection with the quoted reply and the rest of the thread.
 

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It could also be a marginal battery killing the alternator. There was another thread about the batt causing the same symptoms (as origional post). How old is your battery? If it's more than 5 yaers, replace it anyway.
 

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Had somewhat similar experience but my was chalked up to bad battery (pretty new) and corroded terminal cables. Tried to drive to mechanic not knowing it was the new battery causing the problem, made to end of block and dash lit up and pretty much died on me. Could be cables or batt.
 
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