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We just purchased a 2002 exl. It only has 1500 miles on it. While I was driving yesterday I was accelerating very fast and had reached about 40 mph. I didn't realize I was in D3. The Van hestitated. The engine light, tsp light, and the D3 light came on and was blinking. I pulled off to the side and turned the van off. When I turned the van back on, the engine light stayed on but the others did not. In the manuel it says that after the 3rd trip if the engine light does not go off, you need to take it into the dealership. Has anyone else experiened this?
 

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Yes-Well I wasnt driving the van at the time, but our Engine light is on. I opened the manual and it said check the gas cap tightness-but still did not go off. Took it in to the dealer and should hear what it is today.

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2002 MB EXL-RES, (4) Pioneer TSA-1695s, mud flaps, Weathertech cargo mats, nose mask, Alpine VCR into RES, foglights, extra headsets.
 

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Honda has had a poorly designed EGR port which becomes easily clogged after use. (36000 miles in my case). This clogging causes the "Check Engine Light" to come on and stay on, requiring service. The fix is to remove the intake manifold and clean out the port. Mine has failed 5 times in my '99 Ody. I spent over $400 on "out of warranty" repairs.

Honda has now admitted this deficiency by extending the warranty on this item to 8yrs/80000 miles. I have applied for a refund of my money. Expect to get it in another 6 weeks or so.

I would think they fixed this problem in the 2002 model. In any case it shouldn't happen after only a few thousand miles. I'd guess your problem lies in the loose gas cap or some other simple problem. I'm confident they'll fix it and make it right. It is annoying to keep going back. Good luck.
 

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I am now having that problem in my 2000 at just under 30k miles. I also had the same problem in my 1995, and that one was due to a bad sensor. I'll see when this one goes in soon for them to repair what this one was caused by.

Remember that the manual says it is more of an emissions issue than an engine "malfunction" (i.e. I think of "check engin" as "get ready for a major problem"; but honda's lights aren't that).
 

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I got the same engine light after 5000K. I also read the manual, turned the gas cap with three clicks and after three trips the light was still on. I called the dealer on Thursday and they told me they couldn't fit me in until Monday. I could drive it but no hard accelerations. After multiple store trips and kid pickups the light went off Sunday evening. The van runs fine. The dealer said he would take a look at the next oil change.
 

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Once you have MIL light "ON" you can reset it by removing CLOCK_BACKUP fuse from passenger side under dash. put it back after 10 seconds and PCM will be reset.
Also verify that GAS cap is tight till you hear 3 clicks. Then drive you vehicle for sometime and see if you get MIL light ON again. if yes then there is some problem and need to be verify by dealer. God Luck
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by nmpatel:
Once you have MIL light "ON" you can reset it by removing CLOCK_BACKUP fuse from passenger side under dash. put it back after 10 seconds and PCM will be reset.
Also verify that GAS cap is tight till you hear 3 clicks. Then drive you vehicle for sometime and see if you get MIL light ON again. if yes then there is some problem and need to be verify by dealer. God Luck
</font>
Interesting idea... BUT would that also remove the diagnostic code that the dealer can check to see why the light went on in the first place? IMO, I'd rather have the consumer be able to retrieve the code and call the dealer with it to see how major/minor the problem is.
 

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Well well well, I will never say a trip to the stealership wasn't useful. Once last year I had my '00 in for the check engine light and I was BS'ing with one of the techs who let me on to a secret. It seems that there is a trick to resetting the check engine light. I would recommend trying this before bringing it in to be charged for them to do it. It is really simple to do... ready? Under the dash on the passenger side is a fuse box. Simply pull fuse # 13 (LOL) for about 10 seconds, then replace and the pesky Check Engine light will go out. Had mine in to get the tranny replaced (Thanks Honda!!!) and about 2 miles down the road, the check engine light came on. My wife immediately called the dealer and they had to fit us in, and by the way, there might be a charge, if the code was anything other than tranny related... I hummed and hawed about getting it back in, then I remembered scribbling that tidbit in my owners manual last year. Tried it out, and the light hasnt been on since. (it does come on momentarily when starting) Try it out!!
 

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Sorry, NMPATEL... Shoulda read each post before blabbing in the forum...That'll teach me. You hit it right on, remove and replace the fuse and drive around to see if the light stays out. In my case, as was the case when I bought my freshly detailed Ody, probably a little moisture in a connector somewhere. Performed the fuse trick and it has been off ever since.
 

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Good tip. This did the trick for me after I left the gas cap loose. Drove for 300+ miles and MANY trips and it never went off. Dealer said they would "fix" it the first time as a courtesy and I would pay the subsequently. Just bring it in and they had the "equipment" to turn off the light.

Guess he was referring to a fuse puller! LOL
 

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That indeed is a great tip(not)..

Theres about 18 different sensors that will trip the CEL..
By pulling the fuse, your are disabling power to the ECU clearing all the recorded DTC's(diagnostic trouble codes)

Has anyone here who pulled the fuse to clear DTC's took the time to re-learn the idle to the ECU? I see no mention of this.. Is this less important than the indicator lamp? Maybe its ok that your car runs like ****, but as long as the MIL isn't illuminated then everything is ok?...

Do you really think that the malfunction that caused the "check engine light" to be fixed by simply pulling a fuse?

Can anyone here explain to me the criteria of "2 trip detection"?

If you makes you feel better... pull the fuses, disable the battery, do whatever you have to do to make the MIL go off...

In the long run.. good chance you may do some damage, whether it be a set of platinum tip spark plugs that cost $17.00 each(x6) or a new motor at $7000.. Its your car and you make your own choice.. Don't affect me.. my car will get me where I need to be at any given time, but I know whats important...

And thank you craig-mo for understanding the simple concept of not disabling the ECU...
 

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BreakStuff said:
That indeed is a great tip(not)..

Theres about 18 different sensors that will trip the CEL..
By pulling the fuse, your are disabling power to the ECU clearing all the recorded DTC's(diagnostic trouble codes)

Has anyone here who pulled the fuse to clear DTC's took the time to re-learn the idle to the ECU? I see no mention of this.. Is this less important than the indicator lamp? Maybe its ok that your car runs like ****, but as long as the MIL isn't illuminated then everything is ok?...

Do you really think that the malfunction that caused the "check engine light" to be fixed by simply pulling a fuse?

Can anyone here explain to me the criteria of "2 trip detection"?

If you makes you feel better... pull the fuses, disable the battery, do whatever you have to do to make the MIL go off...

In the long run.. good chance you may do some damage, whether it be a set of platinum tip spark plugs that cost $17.00 each(x6) or a new motor at $7000.. Its your car and you make your own choice.. Don't affect me.. my car will get me where I need to be at any given time, but I know whats important...

And thank you craig-mo for understanding the simple concept of not disabling the ECU...
Good points, BS. After all, there is usually a REASON the bloomin' light comes on and ignoring it is not the best approach. One of the things which goes with ownership of a good vehicle is good CARE and feeding. As you said, in so many words, "you can pay me now, or pay me later". Now sounds cheaper, in the long run. We see many cars on the road with a lifetime of brake dust on the wheels and a sooty rear end, both of which indicate neglect. Guess what, one of these days, someone will "detail" that dog and sell it to some unsuspecting buyer who will find out about that history of neglect the hard way. :mad:

Jerry O.
 
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