Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Friends:),

I am looking to replace some motor mounts . I saw first hand when the tb was being replaced that 50820-S0X-A01 was bad(first photo).

My 2000 Ody has about 150,000 miles.

I have experienced some transmission related clunking when accelerating going from first to second and vice versa. I think this may be attributed to 50800-S0X-A04(second photo).

This might be due to transmission problems...but I would bet that this mount at this mileage and age doesn't help.


I have decided to replace them both. Should I look at replacing any of the other mounts ?

For 150,000 miles no motor mounts have ever been replaced.


Is this a difficult job?

Thanks alot!:)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
i reaplced the rear motor mount and fixed the clunk when going into reverse. i dont know how to DIY so i paid $300 to get it done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
Generally on a high mileage vehicle you replace all the mounts if one is bad, the others are not far behind and may have been stressed when the other one broke and let engine flop around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,529 Posts
Hey OD, the t-belt side one is easy. The front is pretty easy, comes out the top. The rear can be ugly but can be done with patience and if eveything comes apart, ie, not rusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
As mjody said, the passenger side was really easy, you may want to change the belts while your at it. The front was a little stressful but not that difficult. Cant comment on the others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
replacing front motor engine mount

I brought my wife’s 2004 Honda Odyssey in to the dealer to have timing belt replaced as the vehicle had 103k miles. Get phone call from dealer saying we had two broken motor mounts and broken wiring from power steering rack. Dealer replace motor mount by power steering for cost of mount which was $95.00, Found same mount for $60.00 so it can be done quite a bit cheaper. Dealer wanted $537.00 to replace front motor mount at a cost of $195.00 for mount and $342.00 for labor and $135.00 to rewire power steering rack, told them No Chance. I found front mount for $117.00 from local auto parts store, this mount seems to be a common problem as I had to call quite a few auto parts stores to find this part. I did both jobs myself. Haynes book is pretty much worthless for replacing front mount. Job too me 3 hours to do both (30 minutes finding my set of Crows feet). If you are going to do this you will need a few tool 3/8 inch racket, couple set of extensions (12” & 6”) universal, both long and short 14mm socket, 14 mm box end wrench, 17mm or 18mm socket for large center bolt, 14mm crows feet (make job much easier) jack and a few boards to raise motor to pull out mount. The job really is not that difficult. First thing I would recommend is to removing all of the black plastic engine dressing, remove ground bolt from bolt and then finally vacuum line I would start by placing the car on jack stands (mainly to raise vehicle up enough to easy climbing in and out from underneath car) remove the 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the mount to the chassis, The 4th bolt you really can not see from the top, I started to remove the 4th bolt with a universal and a bunch of extension , it worked ok but was much easier once I remember that I had a set of crows feet. I then removed the 3 bolt from the aluminum bracket that bolts to the mount (they are also 14mm) Remove the large nut from the mount. Raise engine with jack (be careful to not raise engine to much, you want to raise engine NOT the car, Engine will raise quite a bit) Raising the engine mainly takes the tension off of the mount. I first removed the aluminum mount, then I removed the mount, do not forget to disconnect vacuum line on mount (both parts of the mount must be removed from the top of the engine bay) the mount requires a little finessing; you mainly fight upper radiator hose. To replace mount place larger one in first then aluminum piece, do not tighten any bolt until all bolts are started 3 bolts on aluminum mount, 4 bolts on mount (needed prick punch to align bottom bracket) then I started large nut on mount. Tighten all bolts & nuts don’t forget vacuum lines upper and lower & ground bolt to engine. Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I have a 2001 ody - recently replaced the transmission (about 6 months ago) - 162K miles.
Runs fine now, but there is the 'clunk' going from 1st to 2nd gear. Mechanic said the mounts are going bad. Will replacing the mount solve the 'clunk' problem? theodyguy - did you fix your mounts & what was the result?
thanks. my mechanic who replaced the tranny says this 'clunk' may be be tranny problem!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
I owned a 2005 that started this clunking going into reverse. Having lost the transmission in my previous 2002 I figured I was looking at another transmission for sure. Turned out to be a motor mount. Ironically the dealer first replaced the right rear but the clunk was still there. Replaced the left rear and problem solved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Thanks. I am going to try replacing the motor mounts (esp the bad one(s) mentioned by mechanic).. & will post updates in couple of days or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Sounds like the mounts don't last very long on the vans which is a problem I have seen on many vehicles. An old racing trick is to fill the voids on mounts with some type of caulking like silicone. I have done this on an old Talon I had which had a totally built engine. If you are putting new mounts on, I know this can be done to the one on the passenger side and I think the rear one. You can also do it to the mounts as while they are installed. The biggest thing is that it take awhile for the silicone to dry. I would put duct tape on the back side of the mount, shoot the silicone in and tape off at least the lower portion of the front side if you are doing it with the mounts installed. If you have new mounts, just tape the back side and lay they on that side. File the mount in and give them a two to three days to dry. This will transfer slightly more NVH but you will never have to replace them again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Just purchased a used 2001 with 161,000 miles from a Honda dealer. Safety inspection cited the motor mounts (front, rear, and side) as being bad. Have a mechanic who will let me buy parts and he will do the work for $250. Just want to make sure that there are only the three mounts, not five as in later models. More than willing to look dumb...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,853 Posts
3 motor mounts + 2 transmission mounts

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,853 Posts
The transmission mounts don't give as much trouble as the motor mounts, but they do fail. Since they are easy and cheap to replace, I would include them. Then you know that the entire set is new.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
So, I went looking for the transmission mounts and was told that there are actually 4 motor mounts and 2 transmission mounts. I'm getting pretty confused, and concerned that the parts site folks are not as expert as I would like. Any reliable recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,853 Posts
Here is a diagram showing the mounts: ENGINE MOUNTS for 2001 Honda ODYSSEY

The engine mounts are:
Front: #2
Passenger side: #7
Rear: #5 and #6
Transmission 1: #3
Transmission 2: #4

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello Friends
,

I am looking to replace some motor mounts . I saw first hand when the tb was being replaced that 50820-S0X-A01 was bad(first photo).

My 2000 Ody has about 150,000 miles.

I have experienced some transmission related clunking when accelerating going from first to second and vice versa. I think this may be attributed to 50800-S0X-A04(second photo).

This might be due to transmission problems...but I would bet that this mount at this mileage and age doesn't help.


I have decided to replace them both. Should I look at replacing any of the other mounts ?

For 150,000 miles no motor mounts have ever been replaced.


Is this a difficult job?

Thanks alot!
I


I have almost same millage Honda. I chabged only front and rear transmission motor mounts and its helped. It is very simple.Try it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,828 Posts
Here is a diagram showing the mounts: ENGINE MOUNTS for 2001 Honda ODYSSEY

The engine mounts are:
Front: #2
Passenger side: #7
Rear: #5 and #6
Transmission 1: #3
Transmission 2: #4

Dave
This is right. My '99 is the same. I did not replace #6, and I don't know if that is a wear item.

The bender writeup is a classic. Explains everything in the first post, really. No need to read all thousand pages unless you want to see all the problems people might run into.

So there are 5 real mounts. 3 on the engine. 2 on the AT. The 2 on the AT have to be loosened anyway to get the rear engine mount, and the parts are cheap, so you may as well do those too. The right one on the engine is pretty easy, as is the front one. The rear is a challenge, and might cause problems for those with limited tools and experience.

Depending on the prices, you may decide to save some $$ by buying the parts from Rock Auto, as I did and bender suggests, and others have done with no problems.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top