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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 EX Honda Odyssey with 151k miles.

The trouble started about a year ago when I had an issue with the ignition. It wouldn't turn over at all. Key would go in but wouldn't turn.

We had it towed to a shop, and they quoted us $800 to replace the entire ignition assembly, reprogram the key, and some other garbage.

I said no thanks and had it towed back to my house.

I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, and finally found one explaining how the people interlocking prongs inside the ignition work, and that if you can find the bad ones and replace them, you're good to go.

I went DIY on it. I messed up somewhere in the process -- not being careful enough -- and all the prongs fell out on the ground.

So (probably stupidly) I just attempted to put it together without any of the prongs to see if it worked. It did. The key would turn over, and it fired up. So I assumed I was good to go.

But, after it fired up, the engine started revving like crazy when it was in park idling. It has never done that before.

After looking it up online, I was led to believe it was a problem with the IAC valve.

So I ordered one and replaced it.

No revving this time, so I assumed it was fixed.

However, the check engine light and the TCS light stayed on.

Also, I noticed that when I drove the van after that, there was a noticeable shake or a seizing up when I'd go over 40 mph and let off the accelerator at all -- almost like it was hunting.

I left it that way for a few months, and this past week, I tried replacing the IAC valve again, thinking/hoping that maybe I just got a bad one from Rock Auto.

Process went fine. Fired right up. Sounded and felt great. Took it out on the road for about 15 minutes and did various speeds and stopped (idled) at several stop signs while out.

I thought (again) I was in the clear, but as soon as I got home and put it in park in my driveway -- you guessed it -- surging engine.

I tried doing an idle relearn several times. I've tried turning it off and restarting it many times. I tried disconnecting the battery for an hour then reconnecting and starting it up again. Same thing.

Today, I swapped out the MAP Sensor, really just going through the checklist and praying that was it, but again, no such luck.

The only thing left I can think of is that it might be the dreaded Power Steering Switch that so many of you have pointed to in other threads, but my hesitation is twofold:

1) Why would that have gone bad immediately after my ignition repair?

2) I'm a mediocre hack of a mechanic, and bigger projects intimidate me.

In what I've read on the other threads, I feel like I might not be able to pull that one off. I can't find where the switch is on my car (and the pictures in other threads didn't help me), and I know absolutely nothing about soldering, which seems to be a prerequisite for that project.

I also, sadly, can't afford to take it to a shop to have repaired either right now.

So, if you're still reading at this point, first off, God bless you for your patience.

And second, any ideas?? 馃槵
 

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Does it surge while in park, drive or both? Will it go away if you lightly press the throttle? Does it still act up above 40mph?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does it surge while in park, drive or both?

Only when in park.

Will it go away if you lightly press the throttle?

Momentarily, but it resumes as soon as I let off the throttle.

Does it still act up above 40mph?

It only happens in park.
 

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So, it does NOT do that in Neutral or Reverse? Hmmm, what is different in P than N,. electrically, or mechanically or computer wise?
That 40mph glitch could also help someone else in here to help you out.
Also check out the posts in this link: https://www.odyclub.com/threads/cleaned-iac-valve-stopped-surging-runs-fine-but-p1519-code-still.152852/

If not, that should give someone in this group a good place to start.
Is it possible that you crimped a cable or something in the steering column when you took the ignition switch out? When i took mine out I blew a 40 amp fuse and didn't even know it so that cause a no cranking situation. Not related to your problem but I just can't remember what could be pinched or stretched in there.
Hopefully now that the weekend is over some one will be able to help you out.
BTW, those are not prongs in the ignition switch but wafers. If you ever decide to redo that ignition switch, you can put those wafers back in and figure out which one goes where, There is a method to that madness. :eek:
I had a couple of worn out ones so I just got rid of them and only have two left in there. Much easier to steal it now . :D
Buffalo4
 

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I heard you could just take them all out, won't start without the immobilizer key anyway. My daughter's van got the hybrid approach: Boyfriend* removed ignition and took it to a locksmith who replaced the wafers then he reinstalled it.
So just the locksmith charge.

*Actually former boyfriend who needed to borrow the van. Pays to stay friendly with your exes.
 

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I heard you could just take them all out, won't start without the immobilizer key anyway. My daughter's van got the hybrid approach: Boyfriend* removed ignition and took it to a locksmith who replaced the wafers then he reinstalled it.
So just the locksmith charge.

*Actually former boyfriend who needed to borrow the van. Pays to stay friendly with your exes.
Yes, a locksmith can do that pretty easily and it shouldn't cost much and no reprogramming is needed.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, a locksmith can do that pretty easily and it shouldn't cost much and no reprogramming is needed.
Buffalo4
My issue is no longer the ignition though. Ignition turns over fine. It's that I have a check engine light and engine surging when in park.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, it does NOT do that in Neutral or Reverse? Hmmm, what is different in P than N,. electrically, or mechanically or computer wise?
That 40mph glitch could also help someone else in here to help you out.
Also check out the posts in this link: https://www.odyclub.com/threads/cleaned-iac-valve-stopped-surging-runs-fine-but-p1519-code-still.152852/

If not, that should give someone in this group a good place to start.
Is it possible that you crimped a cable or something in the steering column when you took the ignition switch out? When i took mine out I blew a 40 amp fuse and didn't even know it so that cause a no cranking situation. Not related to your problem but I just can't remember what could be pinched or stretched in there.
Hopefully now that the weekend is over some one will be able to help you out.
BTW, those are not prongs in the ignition switch but wafers. If you ever decide to redo that ignition switch, you can put those wafers back in and figure out which one goes where, There is a method to that madness. :eek:
I had a couple of worn out ones so I just got rid of them and only have two left in there. Much easier to steal it now . :D
Buffalo4
No. Only in park.

Is it possible something got crimped in steering column? Yes, definitely possible. I'll check that next chance I get. There's just so much going on back there, I'm not sure I could check it without taking it all apart, which just puts me in a position to potentially mess it up worse than it already is.
 

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I have the same problem with my 2004 Odyssey, After DYI cleaning of the throttle body and performing the idle relearn, I've now got a PO505 code.

So I decide to replace the (IACV) with a new one because I've had this code pop up before about 2 years ago, and some of the symptoms of a bad (IACV) only now started to appear, hence the throttle body cleaning.

After installing and performing the idle relearn, yup, you've guessed it, LOL.. The idle still fluctuates in park/neutral.

So I take it for a test drive hoping the ECM/PCM will do its job and start learning, after 20 minutes of driving I stop and manually shift into neutral, fluctuating continues, I drive around for about another 10 minutes when check engine/TCS light pops up on dash.
My Odyssey even have the same driving symptoms as you, vibration during the shifting, especially on the down shift around 20 & 40 mph, eradicate hunting acceleration, and it doesn't help when the TCS light comes on with the check engine, it makes the symptoms worse in my opinion, not to mention it's also eating way too much gas.

I've tested the (IACV) for resistence, voltage & fuses, I've even ran a (TPS) sensor test and throttle body check out fine, no drop in signal, electrical, or voltage, I've checked for vacuum leaks and found none.

So I cleaned and put the original honda (IACV) back on, she drives a little better, the idle still fluctuates in park/neutral but not as rough as the new part.

I've been reading and watching a ton of videos on this matter, but no one seems to have any real problem solving answers or even this type of anomaly, except for you and me.

I'm starting to believe it might be ECM/PCM issue, but I keep getting the same PO505 code. I don't know, but I'm finding these issues to be all very strange after only cleaning the throttle body & replacing a new (IACV).

Can someone please tell me why my odyssey is refusing to perform the idle relearn process??.. In my opinion, the idle relearn process is the only thing that doesn't seem to be working.
 
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