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Discussion Starter #1
What kind of resistance does the door have to run into to reverse directions? I tried to push on the door while it was closing and it did not want to stop. I have two small boys (less than 2) so I'm afraid they may get "ran over" by the doors. I want to get it fixed, if it is broken, as soon as possible. Any response would be appreciated.
 

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If I recall correctly, the doors are designed to "learn" how much force is required to reliably close them every time they're operated. This takes place in the first foot or two of closing to compensate for parking uphill, level or downhill. If you are resisting them during this part of their travel they will keep increasing the force. They are designed to reverse if they sense being blocked only in the last 12" or so.

I may be wrong about the distances in question, but that is the theory, anyway.

BTW, I think this process is explained in the Ody's Owner's Manual.
 

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Chuck posted this fix under another topic and I thought I'd add it here:

Admin


#118 of 125: Mod to open power doors on gear (gleamc) Wed 13 Dec '00 (08:32 AM)

Someone earlier had expressed their annoyance that the power sliding doors in the EX would not open
unless the transmission was in Park and asked if anyone knew a way around it.
This too inconvenienced me. I found directions many posts ago in this form on how to modify the
power door wiring to be able to open them in any gear as long as the van is NOT moving.
It may not be for everyone, but I was able to do the modification to our 2000 van without any
problems and I'm happy with the results.

I recall several responses "chastising" the original requester for even thinking about such a
modification. Some may still feel the same way. Before a safety debate is started, let me say the
same as the original poster, the power sliding door control unit also has an input from the vehicle
speed sensor, so even with this modification, the sliding doors can NOT be opened if the vehicle is
in motion.

There is input from the gear position switch on each sliding door's control unit. The doors can be
opened when this input is grounded, which normally only occurs when the transmission is in Park. A
snip to a wire and it's attachment to ground causes the input to be permanently grounded, and thus
making the door think the van is in park, regardless of the gear position.

How to:
Rather than taking off the door panel(s) to expose the sliding door control unit, you can tap into
the wire at a more convenient location. For the left side door, remove the driver's side kick panel
(where the hood release is) and you'll see two gray and one light blue connector all next to each
other. In the middle connector, (I don't remember it's color but it is the one in the middle of the
three) look for the wire that is black with a blue stripe (also has 2 silver bands on it). Cut it at a
convenient location. Use electrical tape and wrap the end that comes from the gear position
indicator. (This will not be used, although you may wish to test its "continuity to ground" when in
Park to make sure you're using the right end.) I attached a second wire and soldered them together
to add length then grounded the other side of the wire to the large bolt nearby, which holds
everything in place and the sensor will be permanently grounded.

Similarly for the right side door, remove the front passenger kick panel (it contains a little
door that opens to a bunch of fuses). At the bottom of the fuse box you'll see two connectors, one
gray the other light blue. In the light blue connector look for the black wire with a blue
stripe (also has 2 silver bands on it) and do the same thing as above.

Prior to the surgery, the doors could only be opened in Park. If the driver shifted into gear
while a door remained open, the buzzer would sound. The doors can be closed, even in Drive.
After the surgery, the doors can be opened in any gear position, provided the vehicle is NOT moving.
No buzzer sounds if you shift into Drive while the door is open. However, once you start moving, the
buzzer goes off. As before, the doors can be closed at any time.
Good luck.
 

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The Boss
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I have noticed sometimes my sliding doors don't close all the way. It stops right before its done closing (only about a half inch) I lock and unlock the doors ... try to open and close it again ... but, it doesn't do anything. When I mess with it long enough it finally closes and I'm able to open it. Anyone else have this problem? And does anyone know how I can keep it from happening? This is getting very annoying.
 

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One of the times my sliding doors close all the way is the time my 3 yr old has his thumb in the way. I'm surprised no bones were broken. When those doors close they close tight. Now I am playing doctor to the little guy.

I'm still wondering why my doors don't close all the time .... They picked a bad time to work.
 

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Sometimes if you hold the door button on the dash depressed until the door is completely closed, the door will reset.

Unfortunately for your son, the auto-reverse feature stops working just before the door completely closes so the latching process can work.

On the other hand, you can be pretty sure he'd be even more miserable right now if it had been a manual door. I hope he feels better soon.

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Chuck
 

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rlee,
I tested my doors by putting my arm against the door jam and letting it attempt to close. It puts a slight amount of pressure on the arm but nothing painful, I wouldn't even classify it as uncomfortable. If you feel significant pressure I would have the dealer look at it. Unfortunatley for OdyMom's son it doesn't reverse with a thumb. But I will agree with ckonarske that if it was slammed on his thumb it would be worse.

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99 EX Deep Velvet Blue
Fog Lights
Air Deflector
Splash Guards
Cargo Tray
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This is our 3rd minivan and our first with the electric sliding doors. We consider our '01 EX electric doors to be a key feature and they have worked well for us so far (1 month new). We have spent $100's on our previous Caravan in aligning the door a few times and removing dents due to kids pushing the door closed instead of slamming it shut. The electric doors will eliminate these kind of problems.

One concern we've had is dropping kids off at school at the curb and having to shift into Park. We've been so used to our past minivans not requiring the gear to be in Park, that I started looking into the re-wiring option for the passenger door only. The Helm manual electrical diagram shows 2 safety mechanisms when opening the EX sliding door. 1) the gear must be in Park, and 2) the car must not be moving (defined as < 3mph). After careful study of the above note and the manual, I decided to make the modification. Its not for everyone, but we're very happy with the added convenience. We don't consider it's safety any different from our previous minivan.

If you want to see what the modification looks like. See photos here: www.fototime.com/inv/18228F6DAEEC76C. By the way, I did find 2 black wires with blue stripe in the light blue connector, its the wire on the top of the connector. The wire in the cable braid comes from the Auto Transmission and provides GND when its in Park.

I spent a most of the time verifying that I got the right side of the correct wire and only 15 minutes on the actual modification itself. These photos should reduce your verification time to locate the correct wires.

[This message has been edited by VTEClover (edited 05-03-2001).]
 

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Vteclover wrote: "I spent a most of the time verifying that I got the right side of the correct wire and only 15 minutes on the actual modification itself."

Yeah. Me, too. I spent a lot more time doublechecking than doing the mod. It seemed like if I made a mistake the world might blow up, or sumpin'.


I spent a long time trying to decide whether to even do the mod. It seemed so major that I thought it must have a downside. NOT!

I've had my doors rewired now for about six months and the change has eliminated most of the frustration of "door beeps". It still happens occasionally, but is one hell of a lot better than the double interlock that Honda's lawyers provided for us. One safety interlock is still one more than a manual door has.

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Chuck
'01 MB EX-NAV Pics and Projects
 

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Here is a tip for those who hasn't done it but is thinking about doing it:
You DO NOT need to cut the wires, Honda's connectors are removable. Using a flat tip screwdriver, pry open the piece of plastic that go across the connector, then push a paperclip through the front while pulling the wire/connector from the back slowly. Behind each connector there is a "lock" that prevent the connector from coming off, that's what the paperclip needs to be pushed against. Once the connector is out, replace the long piece of plastic that you pried out.
You can then attach your ground wire to the loose connector and tape it up.

On the passenger side, the connector that you are looking is the one that is attached to the metal bracken at the bottom of the fusebox. On the driver side, it is the "loose" connectors (the firewall side)

This way, you can reverse the mod to it's original state. Hope this helps.

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Harry
'99 Odyssey Pictures
 

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Whoa!
Thanks VTEClover for the guide. I was very curious how to do it. Looks like I got me a weekend project! Thanks Chuck for the review. For months now I've been also thinking about whether or not to actually do it. And thanks hgani for the tip on the wire removal. Now if I DO find a problem I could easy switch it back.

So let me get this straight...When the van is below 3mph the doors CAN open (w/o buzzing). And anything over 3mph it won't open (w/buzzing). Right?

So, are there any REAL downsides?

-nemogira
 

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Sure there is a downside, you'll miss the music...err...beeps.
If you do it my way, you need to reset the door. Everytime power is removed from the sliding door control module, the doors need to be "taught" on how far it needs to travel until it closes completely. You need to press and hold the close button at the main control (not your remote) until the door closes completely, do it for both doors.
Actually you can do this procedure to solve some problem with doors that fail to close completely. Remove the fuse(s) and reset.

-Harry
 

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Glad to help anyone thinking about this modification. I didn't try to pull the wire out with the connector (good idea), but I already had the paper clip in the hole to test the circuit.

Regarding the motion sensor to detect when the car is "stopped", there is a sensor to the wheels that detects a stopped condition. According to what I read, the sensor considers the vehicle to be "moving" when it reads the wheels turning above 3mph. So anything < 3mph is considered stopped.

I consider this speed sensor to be a good implementation. If it was absolutely 0 mph, then the door would stop opening and beep even when the car "rocks" or inches along - say that 2" lurch when going downhill between the time that you engaging Park and the parking brake actually locks the wheels. (of course I don't recommend slamming the car into Park before setting the brake on a hill - its not nice on the transmission). This modification allows you to brake, stop, set the parking brake (open the door) and then go into Park. So exiting the vehicle is a bit faster for those anxious kids. Of course there is still the doors locks which also override any opening as well.

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2001 Ody EX Navi, GG
2000 Acura TL Navi, Gold, Comptech sway bars, metallic tints
 

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"Of course there is still the doors locks which also override any opening as well."

The lock override doesn't actually prevent the doors from attempting to open, though (there was a previous discussion on this, if I remember right). Instead of grounding the park-sensor input, does anyone know of a door-lock sensor that could be tied in here to keep the motor from attempting to open a locked door?
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Scott:
"Of course there is still the doors locks which also override any opening as well."

The lock override doesn't actually prevent the doors from attempting to open, though (there was a previous discussion on this, if I remember right). Instead of grounding the park-sensor input, does anyone know of a door-lock sensor that could be tied in here to keep the motor from attempting to open a locked door?
</font>
You can fabricate a doorlock position using magnetic/proximity switch installed on the doorlock rod, but the sliding door control modules are located on the side panels, not inside the sliding door. All contacts on the sliding doors are used, so there is no way to pass the signal from the doorlock position to the sliding door module. All we need is a single contact.
I have seen aftermarket sliding door contacts advertised on the net, but I have no idea how good or how easy they are to install.
Well, back to the drawing board...


-harry
 

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Question for those who have already done the sliding door mod:

Does the sliding open when the gas door latch is open? Please explain what it does?

-nemogira

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2000 CCS EX-NAVI
 

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The mod doesn't change the logic of the left door operation. If everything is properly adjusted, opening the gas filler door locks the left door, which will remain locked until it's unlocked intentionally, by whatever normal means.

I've read of one or two cases where the interlock didn't work, but it has nothing to do with whether the door was modded or not.

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Chuck
Click here for Ody pics & projects.
 

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Can someone explain exactly how to dislodge the wire from the harnesss. Do I just push the paperclip in and pull the wire out? Or is there a special technique? Thanks in advance.

-nemogira

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2000 CCS EX-NAVI
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by nemogira:
Can someone explain exactly how to dislodge the wire from the harnesss. Do I just push the paperclip in and pull the wire out? Or is there a special technique? Thanks in advance.

-nemogira

</font>

Nevermind. I just snip the wires. It kind of got scary there for a minute. But everything seems to be working fine. Each door is opening in any gear I choose. And it doesn't when the gas door is open. But I have another question. It seems that when I:

1) Open the gas latch
2) Hear a locking sound from the driver side sliding door
3) Close the gas latch
4) Then try to open the dr. sliding door

The door seems to be still locked. Wasn't it before that once the gas latch is closed the sliding door will unlock? It's not a big deal - I just have to remember to unlock all the doors again. But have any of you notice this before?

-nemogira


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2000 CCS EX-NAVI
 
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