[JeremyInMT]

I drive a 05 EX and after spending time reading this whole thread from start to finish, it seems like this is pretty simple....Both thermostats are fully open at the same temp. One thermostat begins to open around 170 and the other begins to open around 180. Isn't this as simple as saying that the only difference is that the engine (ok, coolant temp) won't get as low with the new thermostat once equilibrium is reached? I live in Montana and believe me, it's been super cold here and our interstate speed limit is 75 (ish...hehe). When I'm driving out there and it's bitter cold, I can keep the internal temp setting to 68 and that's plenty warm in the cabin. Our last trip it was -3F outside and the van warmed up quickly and I've never had a temp issue. That being said, I'm pretty tempted to do this mod anyway for a bit better fuel economy since we have winter like 6 months out of the year. I did have a thermostat start going bad on my other vehicle and it seemed to start opening and keep the engine about 6-10F cooler than it should have been according to my scan gauge. Put a new one in and it's back to the temps it should be. I emphasize that was on a different car than my van. Interesting thread.

 

[cnn]

... One thermostat begins to open around 170 and the other begins to open around 180. Isn't this as simple as saying that the only difference is that the engine (ok, coolant temp) won't get as low with the new thermostat once equilibrium is reached? ... Interesting thread.

At equilibrium, the hotter tstat will raise the engine coolant temp to another 8-10F or so.

There are a few OReilly autoparts store in Montana.
Call and ask for the Murray 4128 thermostat. It is about $13. It is a common tstat used in many cars, I just checked some OReilly stores in MT (on the web) and they currently have this tstat in stock.

Your van is 2005, so I assume you have more than 70-80K miles. Regardless, you should consider changing the thermostat anyway, whether you go OEM or this mod.

Another note: get the gasket (O-ring) from dealer but use the Murray tstat.

Anyway, it is a very easy DIY.

PS: If you are happy about the heat you have now, you will be happier once you have the hotter tstat. I am now into 4th year of this hotter tstat. Zero issues, gas mileage excellent.

I admire you for reading through 19 pages of this thread!!!

 

[JeremyInMT]

At equilibrium, the hotter tstat will raise the engine coolant temp to another 8-10F or so.

There are a few OReilly autoparts store in Montana.
Call and ask for the "Murray 4128" thermostat. It is about $15 or so.

Your van is 2005, so I assume you have more than 70-80K miles. Regardless, you should consider changing the thermostat anyway, whether you go OEM or this mod.

Another note: get the gasket (O-ring) from dealer but use the Murray tstat.

We have 3 O'Reilly's in our area and all 3 stock the 4128 for $12.99. the van actually only has 53,500 miles on it due to it being a lease return, but for $13, I think I can change it a bit early. Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. Very helpful.

My other car actually has a 195F thermostat so I'm not too worried about 180, like you have mentioned. In a way, changing to the 180 from the 170 might actually be better for the vehicle because the temps won't vary as much in the winter.

 

[cnn]

Just an update:

Everything in this original DIY is still correct, I just need to point out an issue for the curious mind.

Motorad produces 2 thermostats: standard vs "fail-safe" versions.

The "fail-safe" version has 2 side "tangs" that: when the engine overheats, the thermostat opens more and the "tangs" spring inside and lock the thermostat in the "open" position.
Nice idea, right? Not really, it is nice idea, but many people on the internet have reported that even under normal operating condition, the "fail-safe" thermostat can open fully and locked in the "open" position. Now the engine takes forever to warm up in the morning. You can read more here:

Motorad "Fail-Safe" thermostat - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat

The fail-safe version starts with a prefix "7" in front of the regular PN. So:

* 302-180: is the standard thermostat.
(FYI: 302 is the type of thermostat, diameters, height etc.; 180 is the temp in F)

* 7302-180: is the "fail-safe" thermostat.

The bottom line: until Motorad masters how to make "fail-safe" tstat thermostat better, stick to standard version (302-180), and replace it every 60-70K miles or so.

 

[cnn]

A little fun with the Motorad 180F Tstat on the stove with a thermometer:

* 178F: nothing yet (stat closed)

* 185F: partially open

* 195F: 90% open

* 200-210F: completely open. No difference between 200F vs 210F.

 

[vwottawa]

I just did this mod and have admittedly read though the 19 pages of this thread, skimming over most of it.

However early on in the thread someone mention burping the Ody after the refill and test drive?

I replaced the tstat, then refilled the cooler, then put the minimum amount in the overflow/resevoir. I put in 50/50 mixture of long life Prestone... hope that is ok, as I did not have any Honda Blue coolant on hand.

Do I need to burp it to let air out or is the system equipped to get rid of air?
If I do need to burp it, can someone tell me how? On my old Pontiac Grand Prix, I had a bleed screw at the top of the engine I used to get air out.

 

[cnn]

1. With engine cold, open radiator cap and fill with coolant until it fills up to the brim. Close radiator cap.

2. Open reservoir and fill until it is at Max. Close cap.

The system self bleeds:
- When engine is HOT, any air in the system will rise to the top of radiator and enters the reservoir.
- When engine is COLD, coolant contracts in volume and sucked back in the system coolant and not air (since the air that enters the reservoir will rise to the top and expel from the system.

Check the reservoir level everyday for about a week or so.
In my case, it settled to about midway between Min and Max.
Refill as necessary.


PS: Please give feedback on the heat issue: is your cabin warmer?

 

[vwottawa]

cnn,

I did everything you stated except fill the reservoir up to max. Will do that tonight and keep an eye on the level. I assume that the coolant I used is ok since you did not mention it.

As for heat feedback it is definitely hotter, but the weather is still unseasonable warm here in Ottawa, about +12 C. The true test for me will be when we get the -20C days in January.

As a purely subjective test, I drove for 30 mins, then put the heat on maximum and could only hold my hand next to the centre vent for about 5 - 10 seconds before it got too hot.

Also, a big thank you to CNN for this post. My wife loves heat and you know what they say about a happy wife....

 

[cnn]

cnn,

I did everything you stated except fill the reservoir up to max. Will do that tonight and keep an eye on the level. I assume that the coolant I used is ok since you did not mention it...

Yes, Prestone is fine. I have been using Prestone Green coolant for some 20 years in my BMW, Volvo, Honda etc. etc.
Zero issues.

- As mentioned, check coolant level regularly for a week.
- Do report back in January when it is down to -30C! Yeah I know, I used to live in Ottawa Canada in 1990s.
- All I can tell you is that: this tstat already saved our lives a few times: it does not matter how cold it is here in Nebraska (yes, sometimes down to -30C with wind blowing), the windshield will defrost just fine.
With the stock thermostat, forget it, ice all over the glass, completely dangerous, could not even see very well!

Anyway, you will be happy with the 82C tstat. Just remember to swap it out every 60-70K miles or so. That is the average lifespan of the tstat.

 

[svezarov]

vwottawa, which store did you buy the thermostat in Ottawa from?

 

[Minja]

gonna do this before winter really comes.

 

[cnn]

vwottawa, which store did you buy the thermostat in Ottawa from?

I thought Canadian Tire carries it?
Find Automotive Tools to Sports Gear to Kitchen & Bath Products | Canadian Tire

Anyway, let's wait to hear from "vwottawa".

 

[vwottawa]

I thought Canadian Tire carries it?
Find Automotive Tools to Sports Gear to Kitchen & Bath Products | Canadian Tire

Anyway, let's wait to hear from "vwottawa".

I bought the tstat from Can Tire. But the store I went to did not have the o-ring in stock, so I had to go to Parts Source to get that. $28 for tstat at CT and $9 for o-ring at PS.

 

[cnn]

For the O-ring, I strongly recommend using only Honda O-ring.
PN 19305-PR7-A00, about $4 at Honda dealer.

Aftermarket O-ring is a hit-and-miss thing, sometimes it works well (no leak), sometimes it leaks.

PS: In the US, I paid US $14.00 for the same tstat at local autoparst store (OReilly Auto Parts).
Wow, you guys in Canada paid twice the price!

 

[svezarov]

I am not surprised for the price. We pay twice the price even for the cars, that's why I imported my odyssey from Houston.

 

[SnowmanPA]

Ok...I know this thread is 5 years old but how come nobody mentioned that @#$%*&^$&% plastic wire loom piece of junk that sits right in front of the thermostat housing? ALLDATA doesn't mention it, and I didn't see it addressed in this "how-to" anywhere.

While I found the debate over the pros and cons of the hotter thermostat (or more correctly, the debate over whether it really works or not) to be highly entertaining, it hasn't helped me to figure out how to remove that stupid wire loom thing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks from one very cold, tired, and frustrated old man in PA.

 

[nirvana_1959]

I just finished installing 302-180 on my Honda Odyssey 2005 EX-L (with VCM engine). In Motorad web site they have listed this thermostat only for non-VCM Odysseys.

Can somebody confirm that 302-180 will work fine with Odyssey 2005 EX-L (J35A7 engine) ?

 

[nirvana_1959]

Ok...I know this thread is 5 years old but how come nobody mentioned that @#$%*&^$&% plastic wire loom piece of junk that sits right in front of the thermostat housing? ALLDATA doesn't mention it, and I didn't see it addressed in this "how-to" anywhere.

While I found the debate over the pros and cons of the hotter thermostat (or more correctly, the debate over whether it really works or not) to be highly entertaining, it hasn't helped me to figure out how to remove that stupid wire loom thing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks from one very cold, tired, and frustrated old man in PA.

I unplugged the 4 sets of wire and detached it from the bracket (actually removed the brakect held by 2 12MM screws). This gives plenty of room to get to the second 10MM screw as well as room for tstat replacement.

 

[nirvana_1959]

I just finished installing 302-180 on my Honda Odyssey 2005 EX-L (with VCM engine). In Motorad web site they have listed this thermostat only for non-VCM Odysseys.

Can somebody confirm that 302-180 will work fine with Odyssey 2005 EX-L (J35A7 engine) ?

This is the link I used for checking: MotoRad - Online Catalog

 

[nirvana_1959]

I just finished installing 302-180 on my Honda Odyssey 2005 EX-L (with VCM engine). In Motorad web site they have listed this thermostat only for non-VCM Odysseys.

Can somebody confirm that 302-180 will work fine with Odyssey 2005 EX-L (J35A7 engine) ?

BUMP.

Any answers, opinions, suggestions ???