It sounds like you might have a shorted/dead cell in the battery. How old is it? If it’s not maintenance free type is it void of water? The water should be covering all the cells and if it’s been allowed to go below that level then it’s been allowed to oxidize and you will not get your full capacity back. Let them run a FULL diagnostic on the battery. Takes over an hour for them to do that test. They have a quick test and a full test that they can do. I don’t recall the actual names they use to distinguish each test.I am in Houston, so i know the cold weather is not the cause.
I can verify that there is some power draw issue with adapters that are plugged into the cigarette lighters as i have had a few dead battery from the kids leaving things plugged in in the back for an hour while we went out to lunch.
When using the regular AC power with the car engine not running blowing up an air mattress camping, i got about 5 or 6 minutes of air pumping before it crapped out.
A few weeks ago i was filling up at the gas station and left the windows down and the radio on, when i got back in there was not enough juice to turn the engine over. i waited 5 minutes and miraculously it started.
My wife while picking up something from a neighbors left the kids in the car watching a DVD for a few minutes, and once again when she got in the engine did not turn over. Later in the day i walked over there to check out the car and it started with out a jump.
In the meantime i picked up a Portable Jumpstart Battery that amazon should deliver latter today. hopefully i won't have to use it but i know i will, so ill update how well that works.
Earlier this week i went to the gym only to come back to the engine not being able to turn over, fortunately the fella who parked next to me was there and was able to help with the jump.
Last time i was at the dealership they told me everything was running fine and within spec, but of course i could leave it there at my time and expense to see if they can see it happen, diagnose it and in turn fix it. Not offering Dealer loaner vehicles makes this a huge hassle, I am considering doing this when i eventually take it in for the recall on the sliding doors. Huge pain in the BUTT.
Anyways other than the electrical and the Radio interface usability (another gripe) i really like the vehicle
It shouldn't.just a note: make sure push PARK button then STOP (STOP without PARK will stay in Acc mode that will drain the battery)
I am with you. Don't know how this urban myth (claiming that hitting the engine stop button leaves accessory power on while everything appears to have powered down once the driver's door is opened) started. I have been driving an '18 for 23 months now, and about half of the time I go straight to the start/stop button. When we are out of town the van had been parked in the garage for up to two weeks at a time and never had any battery issue upon returning.It shouldn't.
From the manual:
Auto park mode
For your convenience, park is automatically selected when all of the following conditions are met:
The vehicle is stopped
The drivers seat belt is unbuckled
The driver's door is opened
I've driven it for nearly 2 years always going from drive directly to the engine stop button (as the dealer said was acceptable), not putting it in park myself. I'm pretty sure I would notice if the vehicle were staying in accessory mode.
(now the fact that I just had a dead battery and had to jump start it doesn't really help my argument, I realize. But I maintain these things are unrelated.)
If you do not have a gel cell battery charger, do not charge with a standard lead-acid battery charger. The gel-cell battery in the Gen 5 has to charge with a lower voltage and may go up to a higher voltage depending on the load of the ODY current draw. Here's a good quote from the Internet,I believe the battery issues people are having is due the Honda's alternator voltage output algorithm resulting in batteries to continually be in a low state of charge.
I discovered my 2017 Accord does not output 14.4v all the time when the vehicle is running, instead it steps down to either 12.4v and 13.4v based on engine load, temperature and voltage required. I tested it and found that when on throttle the car was outputting 12.4v most of the time which is just enough to keep car running. If I start coasting off throttle, the voltage will jump up to 14.4v but step back down as soon as I was on the gas again. When the headlights are on was the only time I saw constant voltage of 14.4v regardless of engine load. Even with high load usage (defrost, seat heaters) the voltage was still stepping down if the headlights were off. So depending on the conditions, constantly running at 12.4v is not enough to charge the battery leaving it in low state leading to premature failure.
Although this was observed in my Accord, I am assuming Honda has the same algorithm in the Odyssey too. I found my 3yr old Accord battery was on the brink of failure but have recovered it through multiple cycles of trickle charging and it is now holding a charge. I also checked the voltage of our 2019 Odyssey and it was quite low. I will now be regularly manually charging our batteries monthly to pro-long battery life since we usually don’t drive at night with the headlights on triggering the higher voltage levels. An alternative to manually charging is to ensure you’re driving around with headlights on so the car will output 14.4v therefore charging the battery. All this complication and risk of extra battery wear for minuscule fuel savings.
Sorry, I thought all 5th generation ODY's had AGM. You would thing it is a very good safety feature to have and "Honda" would have highlighted that point.Not all 5th gen Odyssey's have AGM batteries. Only the models equipped with Auto Idle Stop come with the AGM.
Good point though, make sure you charge appropriately with the proper charger if you're going to do it.