The Check Engine light is the key here. It automatically triggers the other lights to get you to hit the panic button a bit sooner than you otherwise might.

Get the trouble codes read from your van (if you don't have a reader, take it to Autozone and they'll read them for free for you) and then come back to us and tell us what the codes are.

 

Was the check engine light blinking or just the FCW light blinking? A blinking check engine light is a serious misfire that is damaging the catalytic converters. If that's occurring you need to stop driving it.

 

My wife and I just got home from seeing our van get towed away for the same reasons: a blinking check engine light (we could both feel the transition from normal engine to misfiring engine) and the FCW light turned on at the same time! We pulled over, called the dealership and asked what we should do. They said wait 10 minutes and start the car back up and see if it still throws the code. Waited 10 and another 15, same issue every time. Called a tow truck, having it brought directly to the dealership. Car is only 3 yrs old and it’s never had any issues, and we have kept its service up to date with all the dealerships recommendations!

Will find out Monday what the heck happened to cause the blinking check engine light!

 

It's not piston ring failure either. They just get carbon'ed up from being turned off to save a few pennies worth of fuel. Blame your government for requiring this. Just disable the VCM. It's $125 for a VCMTunerII. Install it and forget it. You will get many miles, trouble free from the VCM related issues. You'll probably be happier with how it runs and drives anyway. With that disabled it is tough to beat these vans.

 

It's not piston ring failure either. They just get carbon'ed up from being turned off to save a few pennies worth of fuel. Blame your government for requiring this. Just disable the VCM. It's $125 for a VCMTunerII. Install it and forget it. You will get many miles, trouble free from the VCM related issues. You'll probably be happier with how it runs and drives anyway. With that disabled it is tough to beat these vans.

Don't forget a piston soak and changed plugs.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks so much guys. Funny that you think I’ve got more $ than time. Not sure how to respond to that other than say, “I wish.”

I certainly need to look into the VCMTunerII as the solution. I have a buddy that is constantly tuning his Chevy with a BigStuff3 aftermarket tuner, so I understand just a little of what is being said here.

The dealership is fixing this for free because it’s under warranty, but when they are done it sounds like it’s time for VCMTunerII. Thanks for the tip.

 

The dealership is fixing this for free because it’s under warranty, but when they are done it sounds like it’s time for VCMTunerII. Thanks for the tip.

^^This. It's not really any kind of tune. It just tricks the computer into thinking the engine is just a little bit cooler than it really is, preventing VCM from ever activating. They've been in use many years with no ill-effects. I've had nearly every kind designed on my van and they all work great. The VCMTunerII is a smart box that monitors the actual coolant temp and sends a temp to the computer. Should an overheat occur the smart box will send the actual temp to the computer so you will know. The passive resistor style work very well but can, on occasion, set a check engine light and they don't tell you actual temp should an overheat occur. They also will allow some VCM activation when the engine gets hotter than normal, such as in stop and go traffic. The small amount of VCM activation doesn't hurt anything. They work very well, though, as overheats on these engines are rare unless coolant is lost. I've run both and had no issues with either.

The VCMTunerII is my current favorite since it will allow me to see an overheat but it also has an accelerometer in it that knows when the vehicle is moving. If the vehicle sits perfectly still for something like 2-3 minutes it will turn send actual temp to the computer. This is nice when doing cooling system maintenance on the vehicle as various computer resets and relearns are based on the computer seeing the engine come up to full temp.

Aside from this small items there are no side effects.

 

Yep! Warranty place is going to try to get out of paying for the fix. I’m so upset about it all. Hopefully it works out in our favor. As soon as it’s fixed I’m getting rid of it.

 

@srcooper how many miles are on this van? If you are not close to the TB replacement (105k miles) you could replace the tensioner without removing the belt.

 

80K miles on my van. The warranty place wants to require a tear down to determine the cause of the problem before they'll authorize the repair. If I allow that, then I'm totally screwed if for some crazy reason they won't authorize it. I've only had my vehicle long enough to just now need the first oil change.

 

Well, that's a pickle...

6 new spark plugs (not too bad to DIY, as FWD V6's go), a VCM defeating device and a tensioner replacement would get you back on the road for ~$300. Probably $600-800 if you have to pay labor. The tensioner can be replaced with the timing belt in place if you follow the 'trick' in the factory service manual.

-Charlie

 

I would check with another shop. Most extended warranties do not require work to be done at a dealer, as long as it is done by a certified mechanic. The local shop may be willing to do the tensioner only but, either way, will likely be a better price.

I was in a similar situation when my tensioner failed at 76k. I took it to a local shop that diagnosed as tensioner issue, without doing a full teardown. The warranty would have paid for the full job if only the tensioner was replaced. However I had them do the belt, tensioner, water pump, etc and paid the difference. Fast forward 35k and the tensioner failed again! This time I DIY replaced the tensioner without removing the belt.

Edit: also, add your location and vehicle info to your profile and/or signature. This way others may be able to recommend local shops that won't hose you as bad as the dealer will.

 

Thanks!! We actually going to take it to another shop. 2 hours away but someone we trust more than the dealership.
2015 Odyssey EX-L
80K miles

 

Update: second mechanic agrees that changing spark plugs and cleaning it all out would do the trick. Van is running fine now- it we still need to install a VCM. I want to sell it and just get something different, but also love my van and wanna keep it. To top it all off while I didn’t have my van for 3 weeks our other 2 vehicles broke down. Have 2/3 running again. Thanks for all the info and education!! Hope to continue to love my van.

 

Keeping/repairing will always be more cost effective than buying another vehicle, especially with the info available on this forum. VCM Tuner II or S-VCM will solve the ring/spark plug issue and prevent further associated problems such as motor mount failure. This is the best $125 investment you can make for the van!

 

Hello, I am a 2016 Odyssey owner. My car is having the same problems as you had and it is needed to replace piston ring. The dealer gave me the cost estimate will be $4600. The car is in dealer for repairing over two weeks, still waiting for parts. Honda America denied claim from my dealer sent in. I called and being refused as well. Found the 2013 Honda misfire class action lawsuit settlement document and wonder if it can be extended to 2013 or later owners. Any one tried to contact the original law firm who did the case?

Highlights of Honda Engine Misfire Settlement:

Official site of Honda Engine Misfire Settlement: www.settlement-claims.com/enginemisfire
Link to download claim form online: www.settlement-claims.com/enginemisfire

Address to mail completed claim form with required documents:
Rust Consulting
Soto Class Action Settlement
P.O. Box 2722
Torrance, CA 90509
1-888-888-3082

Class Counsel:
Steven N. Berk
Matthew Bonness
BERK LAW PLLC
Beth E. Terrell
TERRELL MARSHALL DAUDT & WILLIE PLLC
Michael F. Ram
RAM, OLSON, CEREGHINO & KOPCZYNSKI
Lawrence Deutsch
Shanon Carson
Eugene Tompkins

Defense Counsel:
Michael L. Mallow
LOEB & LOEB LLP

 

My car is having the same problems as you had and it is needed to replace piston ring.

Probably too late now, but if you just replace the spark plugs and disable the VCM system, you'd be back on the road for $200 (DIY) to $500 (dealer replaces spark plugs, you install VCM disabling device). Plenty of threads on here about it...

-Charlie

 

This is happening to my 2016 odessy. Taking to dealership today. They keep saying it's just a dirty radar, but it's not, the weather is sunny and dry. I cleaned the radar and windshield camera myself. It definitely feels like a mis fire is going on.

 

FCW and LDW warning lights turn on with the check engine light. See the "VCM Mega Thread" at the top of the forum here and start reading up!

-Charlie

 

My 2014 Odyssey got the same issues. FCW failure warning and check engine light blinking. Bought the S-VCM and installed it. But the symptoms are still there. What should I try next?

 

check to see if it threw any codes, diagnose from there. if no codes, plug a battery saver in to the cigar lighter. disconnect negative battery terminal, step on brake for 30 sec to bleed juice from ecu. reconnect battery. drive 20 miles, hopefully no codes. if it throws obd engine codes again, bring to someone for repair. great luck to you

 

After FCW system failed message, replaced the battery (was old anyway), but even after leaving the battery disconnected for a couple hours, now Ody cranks like a beast but won't turn over.. Any suggestions?

(I had the VCM muzzler installed 4 years ago, has been running like a champ this whole time, no issues whatsoever)..

The van feels like it's not getting fuel - it cranks but just won't start...