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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my '01 Ody, the salesman was very specific when going through the owner's manual with me about the initial oil change. He said do not do the first one until 6k miles and then 3K thereafter. A fellow Ody owner told me the same thing. (bought at different dealer) Oh well, I usually do my own oil changes but since I had a cheap coupon from my local dealer (not where I purchased the Ody) I decided to take it in. I wanted to ask the service manager several questions and get my vehicle in their system just so I'll get the friendly reminders about servicing whether I take it to them or not. To my surprise, he said that he had many Ody owners bringing in their vans for the initial oil change at 6k miles and he doesn't know where that recommendation started but they tell all of their customers every 3750 miles including the first. He said that going 6k wouldn't really hurt but there was no synthetic or special "break in" oil put in initially. I was just curious as to what everyone else heard.

By the way, I had 6017 miles on mine and he gave me the little demonstration on how to reset the Maint Req. light which I had already learned from this site.

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Ryan
'01 GG EX
 

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It will not matter if the first oil change occurs in the 3K or 6K mile range. These engines are assembled under very clean conditions and all "shavings and manufacturing debris/lubes etc..." are long gone prior to assembly. If not, the engine would likely fail very quickly.

Some manufacturer's do use a break-in additive (Audi and VW apparently do) but I don't know if Honda does. I changed my Audi A4 oil early and it took a very long time for the engine to fully break in.

Just follow the owner's manual or do it sooner if it makes you feel better.

Just my humble opinion.



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Jim
 

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I talked to Honda Customer support about this very matter.

The reason I was interested, was that I had my first oil drained at 25 miles (my dealer had added a graphite additive to the oil before delivering it to me, and I wanted it out!!)

I called Honda because the manual was very specific in suggesting that the oil NOT be changed before 3750 miles, even under SEVERE conditions. The engineer at Honda said it was some type of pure oil without many additives that they put in at the factory. Perhaps it was to help the engine break in. Hope it doesn't affect the long term performance of my engine . . the engineer said it shouldn't (so why bother with the different oil to begin with, right?).

I had the dealer drain the oil and put Castrol GTX back in it. Seems to run fine at 750 miles.


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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
 

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We just got our SS EX last Saturday and the service rep told us every 3750 miles to do the oil change and that there were special additives put in. He also pointed out to put in 5W 20 oil.
 

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Honda factory engineers recommend leaving the factory oil in for at least 5000 miles, preferably 7500 miles. The break in oil has additives that help the engine break in. No synthetic oil for at least the first 10,000 miles. I've done this for the NSX, S2000, Odyssey, CRV etc etc.
 

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Would you explain why you shouldn't put in synthetics for at least 10k miles? Also, if you know of a reference that covers the differences and benefits of synthetics, I would really appreciate it.

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Jeff

'01 SS EX
 

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Synthetics are more "slippery" and don't allow for proper break-in. I'll be using Dino oil until the 3rd oil change. From there on it'll be exclusively Mobil 1.

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Jim
'01 GG EX
 

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Jim F is correct, you don't want to use full synthetic oils until the engine is fully broken in as its lube qualities are superior to dino oil.

I made this mistake with my Audi A4 and went to sythetic too early and it actually seems that the engine finally made full power at 20000 miles. Never had any unusual oil consumption but I'm sure the break in would have been shorter had I left the OEM oil in it longer.

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Jim
 

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BTW, I still think 5w-20 oil is not correct and I think a recent thread sort of cleared that up and Honda says to use 5w-30 like the oil cap on the engine says.



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Jim
 

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I did my first oil change on Honda's schedule, i.e. at 7500 miles. I will continue to have the oil changed at this interval; Honda says it's safe. I didn't used to believe manufacturers, who have long published schedules for oil changes at greater intervals than 3K miles, but some years back Consumer Reports published a test they did: they took 100 NYC cabs, ran them a great number of miles (I want to say 100K, but I can't recall for sure). Half of them they changed the oil at 3K miles, the other half at 6K miles. At the end, they tore ALL the engines down, and were unable to discern ANY noticeable (or measurable) differences. Conclusion: 6K oil change intervals are OK.

Just my $.02.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
I majored in liberal arts. Will that be for here or to go?
 

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The problem with the taxi study is that most people don't run their vans like taxis do - running for hours at a time without being shut down. If you drive short distances and run the van under 20 minutes at a time there will be much more stress on the oil to perform. If you drive like this (and I think most folks do) then stick with a change of filter and oil every 3K miles or 3 months.
 

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At last, I picked my Ody up today. Dealer told me to use 10W-30 which is pretty regular engine oil, different from the owner's manual. I don't know if this is right or not. But I'm gonna follow their instruction bevasue I'll get the dealer to do oil change for me.
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Byron, 01 SS EX, air deflector

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by triplecut:
BTW, I still think 5w-20 oil is not correct and I think a recent thread sort of cleared that up and Honda says to use 5w-30 like the oil cap on the engine says.



</font>
 

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We have summers from hell here in Texas. He probably adjusted for that.

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Jim
'01 GG EX
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">The problem with the taxi study is that most people don't run their vans like taxis do - running for hours at a time without being shut down. If you drive short distances and run the van under 20 minutes at a time there will be much more stress on the oil to perform. If you drive like this (and I think most folks do) then stick with a change of filter and oil every 3K miles or 3 months. </font>
I have two problems with this, Sfearing. First, I do not countenance the notion that the infernal stop-and-go demands placed on an engine (and its oil) in a taxi in NYC are less than the demands placed on the engine of an automobile placed in ordinary average usage. Second, Honda says 7500 miles; what information do you have that they are not cognizant of?


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
Finish your mail packet! There are children offline in India.
 

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Kelsen,
There are things worse than running an engine non-stop - one of them is running it for only 5 or 10 minutes at a time and the engine never reaching a peak operating temperature. The oil accumulates various things from startup including water and other volatiles like gas that never get a chance to evaporate.

True, stop-and-go puts fewer miles on the engine than highway driving but as far as the engine is concerned once it reaches its operating temperature it is as happy as a clam. This is why to maintain a seldom driven car it is recommended to get it out on the road at least every other week for at least 20 minutes.

I do many 5 to 10 minute trips in my vehicles (I'm 3 miles from where I work), therefore I will continue to change every 3K miles/ 3 months. This puts my vehicle on the severe conditions maintenence schedule. If you do only freeway driving for long periods at a stretch, by all means try the 7.5K change.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by sfearing:
Kelsen,
There are things worse than running an engine non-stop - one of them is running it for only 5 or 10 minutes at a time and the engine never reaching a peak operating temperature. The oil accumulates various things from startup including water and other volatiles like gas that never get a chance to evaporate.
</font>
Agreed. Also, I remember one of the things I was taught as a lad was that the hardest thing on an engine is starting up, as it takes some time for the oil to circulate. On the other hand, I surmise that a fairly small percentage of us drive our cars only 5 - 10 minutes at a shot the majority of the time.

<snip>

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2"> I do many 5 to 10 minute trips in my vehicles (I'm 3 miles from where I work), therefore I will continue to change every 3K miles/ 3 months. This puts my vehicle on the severe conditions maintenence schedule. If you do only freeway driving for long periods at a stretch, by all means try the 7.5K change.</font>
I did not mean to imply that the longer schedule was for all drivers; alternatively, it seems likely that the 3K oil change mantra we learned is not necessary (or necessarily best) for everyone, either. FWIW, Honda doesn't indicate that the 7.5K cycle is only for cars which "do only freeway driving for long periods at a stretch".

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
Attila the Nun - a simple girl pledged to a life of violence.

[This message has been edited by Kelsen (edited 04-11-2001).]
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Kelsen:
I did my first oil change on Honda's schedule, i.e. at 7500 miles. I will continue to have the oil changed at this interval; Honda says it's safe. I didn't used to believe manufacturers, who have long published schedules for oil changes at greater intervals than 3K miles, but some years back Consumer Reports published a test they did: they took 100 NYC cabs, ran them a great number of miles (I want to say 100K, but I can't recall for sure). Half of them they changed the oil at 3K miles, the other half at 6K miles. At the end, they tore ALL the engines down, and were unable to discern ANY noticeable (or measurable) differences. Conclusion: 6K oil change intervals are OK.

Just my $.02.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
I majored in liberal arts. Will that be for here or to go?
</font>
I remember this study. The most interesting thing about it to me was that they were not able to determine any difference using synthetic versus conventional oils.


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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
 

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Here is some information on dino vs synthetic, and additives.
Happy reading!

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html

http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/article/

Consumer reports published a report on motor oil, which includes info on dino vs synthetic. It's a lot of information, but may be helpful. Protocol is different everywhere, someone please let me know if this kind of post is not acceptable on this board. You can read the entire thread on Tundrasolutions at http://www.tundrasolutions.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=002781

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Here is the consumer reports study:
PERFORMANCE
Testing the Oils

We put identical rebuilt engines with precisely measured parts into the cabs at the
beginning of the test, and we changed their oil every 6,000 miles. That's about twice
as long as the automakers recommend for the severe service that taxicabs see, but
we chose that interval to accelerate the test results and provide worst-case
conditions. After 60,000 miles, we disassembled each engine and checked for wear
and harmful deposits. Our test conditions were grueling, to say the least. The typical
Big Apple cab is driven day and night, in traffic that is legendary for its perversity, by
cabbies who are just as legendary for their driving abandon.

When the cabs aren't on the go, they're typically standing at curbside with the engine
idling, far tougher on motor oil than highway driving. What's more, the cabs
accumulate lots of miles very quickly. They don't see many cold start-ups or long
periods of high-speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most
common type of severe service, stop-and-go city driving.

Each of the 20 oils we studied was tested in three cabs to provide meaningful test
results even if a few cabs fell out with mechanical problems or because of accidents.
(Six of the 75 engines did, in fact, have problems, none apparently related to the oil's
performance.) Our shoppers all across the country bought hundreds of quart
containers of oil. Some brands had slightly different formulations in different areas, but
all the oils included a full package of additives.

An independent lab helped us identify the most representative formulations of each
brand. Our engineers transferred containers of that oil to coded 55-gallon drums and
hauled them to the fleet garage for testing. Ideally, oil should be thin enough to flow
easily when the engine is cold and remain thick enough to protect the engine when
it's hot. The lab analyses of each oil's viscosity characteristics (its ability to flow)
indicate that motor oils have improved since 1987, when we last tested them.

This time, far fewer test samples failed to meet the viscosity standards for their grade,
and those were typically outside the limits by only a slight amount. No brand stood
out as having a significant problem. We tested oils of the two most commonly
recommended viscosity grades, 10W-30 and 5W-30. Automakers specify grades
according to the temperature range expected over the oil-change period. The lower the
number, the thinner the oil and the more easily it flows.

In 5W-30 oil, for example, the two numbers mean it's a "multiviscosity" or
"multigrade" oil that's effective over a range of temperatures. The first number, 5, is an
index that refers to how the oil flows at low temperatures. The second number, 30,
refers to how it flows at high temperatures. The W designation means the oil can be
used in winter.

A popular belief is that 5W-30 oils, despite their designation, are too thin to protect
vital engine parts when they get hot. But one of our lab tests found otherwise. In that
test, the viscosity of oils was measured under high-temperature, high-stress
conditions. Essentially, no difference was found between 5W-30 oils and their 10W-30
brand mates. But at low temperatures, the 5W-30 oil flowed more easily.

Viscosity grade is important, so be careful. Recommendations vary with the make,
engine and model year of the car, so check your owner's manual and ask the
mechanic for the proper grade of oil.

Results

If you've been loyal to one brand, you may be surprised to learn that every oil we
tested was good at doing what motor oil is supposed to do. More extensive tests,
under other driving conditions, might have revealed minor differences. But thorough
statistical analysis of our data showed no brand, not even the expensive synthetics,
to be meaningfully better or worse in our tests. After each engine ran about 60,000
miles (and through 10 months of seasonal changes), we disassembled it and
measured the wear on the camshaft, valve lifters and connecting-rod bearings.

We used a tool precise to within 0.00001 inch to measure wear on the key surfaces
of the camshaft, and a tool precise to within 0.0001 inch on the valve lifters. The
combined wear for both parts averaged only 0.0026 inch. Generally, we noted as
much variation between engines using the same oil as between those using different
oils. Even the engines with the most wear didn't reach a level where we could detect
operational problems.

We measured wear on connecting-rod bearings by weighing them to the nearest
0.0001 gram. Wear on the key surface of each bearing averaged 0.240 gram, about
the weight of seven staples. Again, all the oils provided adequate protection. Our
engineers also used industry methods to evaluate sludge and varnish deposits in the
engine. Sludge is a mucky sediment that can prevent oil from circulating freely and
make the engine run hotter. Varnish is a hard deposit that would remain on engine
parts if you wiped off the sludge. It can make moving parts stick.

All the oils proved excellent at preventing sludge. At least part of the reason may be
that sludge is more apt to form during cold startups and short trips, and the cabs
were rarely out of service long enough for their engine to get cold. Even so, the
accumulations in our engines were so light that we wouldn't expect sludge to be a
problem with any of these oils under most conditions. Variations in the buildup of
varnish may have been due to differences in operating temperature and not to the oils.
Some varnish deposits were heavy enough to lead to problems eventually, but no
brand consistently produced more varnish than others.

The bottom line: Our tests indicate that brand doesn't matter much, as long as the oil
carries the industry's starburst symbol. Beware of oils without the starburst, as they
may lack the full complement of additives needed to keep modern engines running
reliably.

One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax
synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures, a condition our taxi tests
didn't simulate effectively. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics also had the
highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil
protects the engine. Thus, these oils may be a good choice for hard driving in extreme
temperatures.

Note, too, that a few automakers recommend specific brands of motor oil in the
owner's manual. You may need to follow those recommendations to keep a new car
in warranty.

Testing Slick 50 and STP

We also tested Slick 50 and STP Engine Treatments and STP Oil Treatment, each in
three cabs. (Slick 50 costs $17.79 per container. STP Engine Treatment has been
discontinued.) All three boast that they reduce engine friction and wear. The engine
treatments are added with the oil (we used Pennzoil 10W-30). They claim they bond
to engine parts and provide protection for 25,000 miles or more. We used each
according to instructions.

The STP Oil Treatment is supposed to be added with each oil change. It comes in
one formulation (black bottle, $4.32) for cars with up to 36,000 miles, another (blue
bottle, $3.17) for cars that have more than 36,000 miles or are more than four years
old. We used the first version for the first 36,000 miles, the second for the rest of the
test, again with Pennzoil 10W-30.

When we disassembled the engines and checked for wear and deposits, we found no
discernible benefits from any of these products. The bottom line: We see little reason
why anyone using one of today's high-quality motor oils would need these engine/oil
treatments.

One notable effect of STP Oil Treatment was an increase in oil viscosity. It made our
10W-30 oil act more like a 15W-40, a grade not often recommended. In very cold
weather, that might pose a risk of engine damage.


OIL INDUSTRY STANDARDS

Certainly, motor oil is slippery. That's what helps protect an engine's moving parts.
But motor oil does much more than lubricate. It helps cool the engine, keep it clean,
prevent corrosion and reduce friction to improve fuel economy. To do all that, refiners
blend in various additives, which account for 10% to 25% of the product you buy. The
oil industry has devised a starburst symbol to certify that a particular motor oil meets
the latest industry requirements for protection against deposits, wear, oxidation and
corrosion.

The starburst on the label means the oil meets API (American Petroleum Institute)
Service SH requirements, the latest, most advanced formulation. (Service SH
supplants SG, the previous top category.) A CD designation on most of the tested
oils refers to diesel performance. The starburst also means the oil passes
ILSAC/GF-1 standards developed by the International Lubricant Standardization and
Approval Committee, a U.S.-Japanese group. And it means the oil meets Energy
Conserving II requirements (it improves fuel economy by reducing engine friction). All
tested oils carry the starburst, and performed well. Oils without it may not.

Following are some of the additives found in modern oils:

Antioxidants prevent the oil from thickening when it runs hot for extended periods.

Detergents help prevent varnish and sludge on engine parts and neutralize acid
formed in engine.

Pour-point depressants help the oil flow in a cold engine, especially in cold weather.

Friction modifiers strengthen the oil film and prevent unlubricated contact between
moving parts.

Viscosity-index improvers modify the oil so its viscosity is more consistent over a
wide temperature range.

Dispersants keep contaminants suspended so they don't form deposits in engine.

Rust and corrosion inhibitors protect metal parts from acids and water formed in
engine.

Foam inhibitors collapse the bubbles churned up by engine crankshaft. (Foam
reduces lubricating effectiveness.)

Antiwear agents provide lubrication when oil is squeezed out from between moving
engine parts.


OIL CHANGES

How Often?

The long-time mantra of auto mechanics has been to change your oil every 3,000
miles. Most automakers recommend an oil change every 7,500 miles (and a specific
time interval) for "normal" driving, and every 3,000 miles for "severe" driving (frequent
trips of less than four or five miles, stop-and-go traffic, extended idling, towing a trailer,
or dusty or extremely cold conditions). Many motorists' driving falls into one or more
of those "severe" categories.

In our survey, almost two-thirds of our readers said they had their oil changed every
3,000 miles or less. They may be following the thinking expressed by one of our
staffers: "I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles because that's what my father did,
and all his cars lasted for many years." To determine whether frequent oil changes
really help, we changed the oil in three cabs every 3,000 miles, using Pennzoil
10W-30. After 60,000 miles, we compared those engines with those from our base
tests of the same oil, changed every 6,000 miles. We saw no meaningful differences.

When Mobil 1 synthetic oil came out, Mobil presented it as an oil that, while
expensive, could go 25,000 miles between changes. That claim is no longer being
made. But Mobil 1 is still on the market, selling at a premium (along with pricey
synthetic competitors from several other companies). And synthetic oil's residual
reputation as a long-lasting product may still prompt some people to stretch their oil
changes longer than the automaker recommends.

Determining whether synthetic oils last longer than conventional ones would require a
separate test project. To try to get some indication as to whether synthetic oils last
longer, we put Mobil 1 synthetic into three cabs and changed their oil every 12,000
miles. We intended to compare the results of these tests with those from the three
taxicabs whose Mobil 1 was changed at our normal interval, every 6,000 miles. Two of
the three engines using the 12,000-mile interval developed problems. (We couldn't
attribute those problems to the oil.) The third engine fared no worse than the three
whose oil had been changed at 6,000-mile intervals.

The bottom line: Modern motor oils needn't be changed as often as oils did years ago.
More frequent oil changes won't hurt your car, but you could be spending money
unnecessarily and adding to the nation's energy and oil-disposal problems. Even in
the severe driving conditions that a New York City taxi endures, we noted no benefit
from changing the oil every 3,000 miles rather than every 6,000. If your driving falls
into the "normal" service category, changing the oil every 7,500 miles (or at the
automaker's suggested intervals) should certainly provide adequate protection. (We
recommend changing the oil filter with each oil change.)

We don't recommend leaving any oil, synthetic or regular, in an engine for 12,000
miles, because accumulating contaminants, such as solids, acids, fuel and water,
could eventually harm the engine. What's more, stretching the oil-change interval may
void the warranty on most new cars.

Where Should You Go?

Choosing the right motor oil is only the first step. Someone has to change the oil
regularly. Should you economize by doing the work yourself? Should you go to the
local service station? The car dealer? A quick-lube center? Our own tests plus the
experiences of some 900 of our readers provide some answers to those questions.
We asked readers how often they change their car's oil, who does it and how satisfied
they are with the service. And we sent shoppers in several parts of the U.S. to 55
local quick-lube centers to assess the service and to collect oil samples.

The car owners we surveyed used these four options in roughly equal measure:

Service station or garage. Many local garages compete with quick- lube centers by
charging $20 to $30 or so for an oil change. And the service station may be a good
place to go for other repairs and maintenance.

New-car dealer. Some dealers offer regular oil changes for little or no extra cost with
the purchase of a car. General Motors dealers offer a "one price" oil change that's
competitive with the prices charged by quick-lube centers. But absent such a one-
price arrangement, expect such dealer-performed oil changes to cost about $30. Car
dealers were also the slowest and least convenient, according to our survey.

Do it yourself. People change their own oil not only to save money (oil and filter
together can cost as little as $10), but also for the satisfaction of knowing the job was
done right. If you handle your own oil changes, be sure to dispose of the used oil
properly to prevent it from polluting the environment. It's best to take the oil to a local
service station that accepts used oil, or to a municipal household hazardous-waste
collection center. Whatever you do, don't pour the oil down the sewer or discard it
with the rest of the household trash.

Quick-lube centers. These operations promise to get you in and out in as little as 10
minutes. Of our surveyed readers, 90% reported that they waited less than half an
hour. Cost: $15 to $33. Although about 77% of readers were highly satisfied with
quick-lube centers, service stations and car dealers earned even higher scores.

How Reliable Are Quick-Lubes?

Quick-lube centers promise a lot for a little. They say they'll change the oil and filter,
top off other fluids, check the tire pressure, perhaps even vacuum the car's interior, all
in about half an hour and for about $25. To find out how well the centers deliver on that
promise, we asked Consumer Reports shoppers in California, Florida, Illinois and
Texas to take cars in for an oil change at quick-lube centers last winter. The shoppers
visited outlets run by Jiffy Lube, Kmart, Wal-Mart and others. We didn't visit enough
centers often enough to rank them from best to worst. But we did see patterns in the
service.

The shops we visited didn't cut corners. The oil they dispense from a drum is
comparable with the oil you can buy in one-quart containers. The shops also did a
good job of filling oil and other fluids to the proper levels. But the shops do make
mistakes. The most common, one that any servicer can make: using the wrong
viscosity grade of oil for the car.

Many oil-change centers maintain computerized data on which oil grades are
recommended for specific makes and models. But in the cases where we could
compare the oil grade we got with the grade the car's owner's manual listed as
preferred, the quick-lube shop used a different grade half the time. You might not be
able to tell if your car got, say, 10W-40 instead of 5W-30. And one oil change with the
wrong grade in normal weather shouldn't harm the engine. But the engine may not
always be adequately protected if it has the wrong grade of oil in very hot or very cold
weather.

The shops are usually fast and economical. They took from 10 minutes to more than
an hour to service our shoppers' cars. Average time: 35 minutes. The cost ranged
from $15 to $33, with the average at $23. Service varies. Some centers change the oil
and filter, period. Others include a variety of services. But note that 18% of our
readers who used a quick-lube center complained that it tried to sell them services
they didn't want. And a few readers (8%) said the centers didn't perform a necessary
service, changing the oil filter.

Consumer Reports Recommendations

Change the oil yourself only if you have the tools and equipment, can safely dispose
of the used oil, and feel that it's worth the hassle to save about $15. Otherwise, any of
the commercial alternatives can do an adequate job. Use a garage or the dealer when
you also need other work done at the same time. Choose among quick-lube centers
according to price and service, and be sure you tell the center what grade of oil your
car needs. Discount coupons are common, so you need never pay full price.


CONSUMER REPORTS RATINGS

The Consumer Reports Ratings list the tested products by type. Within types, they're
listed in alphabetical order. All the tested oils performed well in our tests, and all
claim to meet the latest industry standards. A * after the product name indicates that
one or more samples differed from viscosity-grade requirement by a small amount.
Price is the average for 1 quart, based on a national survey of discount stores.

Ratings: 5W-30 Oils

CASTROL GTX ($1.21) Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled.
Graduated container.

EXXON SUPERFLO (Price not available. Not widely found in discount stores.)
Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled. Graduated container with
window.

FIRE & ICE ALL-SEASON* (Shell, $0.93) Different formulations in Florida and New
York. Graduated container with window.

HAVOLINE FORMULA 3 (Texaco, $1.11) Appears to use same formulation in all
areas sampled. Graduated container with window.

MOBIL* ($0.95) Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled. Graduated
container with window.

PENNZOIL ($1.16) Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled. Graduated
container.

QUAKER STATE DELUXE* ($1.20) Appears to use same formulation in all areas
sampled. Graduated container with window. 10W-30 is called Super Blend.

VALVOLINE ALL-CLIMATE ($1.14) Different formulations in California and Texas.
Graduated container with window.

Ratings: 10W-30 Oils

CASTROL GTX ($1.18) Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled.
Graduated container.

EXXON SUPERFLO ($1.13) Different formulation in Florida. Graduated container with
window.

FIRE & ICE ALL-SEASON* (Shell, $0.99) Appears to use same formulation in all
areas sampled. Graduated container with window.

HAVOLINE FORMULA 3* (Texaco, $1.13) Different formulations in Illinois and Texas.
Graduated container with window.

KENDALL SUPERB 100* ($1.23) Different formulation in Florida. 5W-30 not tested.

MOBIL 1 synthetic ($3.76) Low-temperature flow characteristics were better than
most. Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled. 5W-30 not tested.
Graduated container with window.

MOBIL ($0.95) Different formulation in New York. Graduated container with window.

PENNZOIL ($1.16) Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled. Graduated
container.

PENNZOIL PERFORMAX synthetic ($2.97) Low-temperature flow characteristics were
better than most. No 5W-30. Appears to use same formulation in all areas sampled.

QUAKER STATE SUPER BLEND* ($1.20) Appears to use same formulation in all
areas sampled. Graduated container with window. 5W-30 is called Deluxe.

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01 TW EX/Navi
 
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