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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All

I have a 2004 Odyssey EX-L with 137K miles. I think with original transmission, bought the car in Jan.

I need to go on a 2600 mile trip in 24 hours and was getting the van ready.

I changed the transmission fluid last week with DW-1, overfilled it about 1/2 quart. Changed front tires and oil.

Just today, I took it on a 60 mile trip and on the way back, the D light started flashing. I stopped at the next gas station to check the fluid, but it was closed and too dark.

I turned the car off, then turned it back on. The flashing light went away.

Next station, I checked the transmission fluid and it was fine, still a little overfilled.

After coming home, I scanned it with an Autel MS309 and it didn't show any codes. I then drove it again for 15 miles and couldn't get that D light to flash and scanned again and still no codes.

OK, BUT IN LESS THEN 24 HOURS, I HAVE TO GO ON A 2600 MILE TRIP.

Any thoughts, suggestions or precautions?
 

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It could be one of the pressure switches going bad. I would be hesitant to drive it that far, even not knowing the details of the trip. You must be close to leaving, but did you check any van/car rentals? Might be inexpensive now with the lack of travel related to the Coronavirus.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello

Thanks.

I have to take some computers from Western NY to Dallas and come back.About 1300 miles one way. The stuff weighs 400 - 500 lbs.

I am wondering if that cheap scan reader I have, Autel MS309 is any good for catching transmission codes or do I need a more advanced one. I'm taking it to AutoZone to see if they can pull some codes from it.

Does anyone know if there are any sensors near where you fill the transmission fluid as some dropped from the funnel.

I had debated waiting until I come back before changing the fluid.
 

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A lot of the cheaper units can not read transmission codes. One of the cheapest if not the cheapest ones I have found is the Autel AP200 and it also offers full function diagnostics which you just don't find in the sub $100 price range (I paid $70 on amazon for mine). I would try to fine some alternative form of transportation until you can get the codes read by a capable scanner. Flashing D can be a number of different things and indicates the van going into limp mode which may or may not be associated with the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello

Thanks. That scanner is $70 with a $15 discount on Amazon and they can get it to my house on Tuesday.

I'm heading out to AutoZone to see if their scanners pull something up and then am doing that 60 mile trip again. Another thing I recalled is that around the time the thing flashed, I was going over a bumpy road where they have construction going on.

I will post back in a couple hours.
 

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I wonder if another drain/fill and not overfilling it would help! (Don't think it should hurt!)
 

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I drove our 99 Ody at least a couple thousand miles with a bad tranny. I'd change the fluid every week and get metal filings out the drain plug. I was told to wait by Honda America for possible help on the trans. And they did come thru. That was many moons ago.
I had another car available. I just wanted to see how far I could go;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello Everyone

Thanks for all of your replies and feedback. I hope this thread will end up helping others.

Ok, so I went on a 60 - 70 mile ride with my kids and could not reproduce that flashing D light.

Before that I went to AutoZone to see if there scanner would pick up any codes and NONE. Their scanner did not catch any codes. I told the very nice guy the issue I had and asked them if they loan a little more high end scanners and ended up paying $249 which they will return when I bring this back.

So I scanned with that and still no codes.

154526









Then playing around with that scanner I saw something which said Honda OEM, so scanned with that.

And look at this:
154527



154528





Honda Parts is now closed, I didn't act fast enough or I could have just bought the part there but there are a few dealers open on Sundays too.

Anyone know how hard it is to change that sensor or switch whatever that part is?
 

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Hello Everyone

Thanks for all of your replies and feedback. I hope this thread will end up helping others.

Ok, so I went on a 60 - 70 mile ride with my kids and could not reproduce that flashing D light.

Before that I went to AutoZone to see if there scanner would pick up any codes and NONE. Their scanner did not catch any codes. I told the very nice guy the issue I had and asked them if they loan a little more high end scanners and ended up paying $249 which they will return when I bring this back.

So I scanned with that and still no codes.

View attachment 154526








Then playing around with that scanner I saw something which said Honda OEM, so scanned with that.

And look at this: View attachment 154527


View attachment 154528




Honda Parts is now closed, I didn't act fast enough or I could have just bought the part there but there are a few dealers open on Sundays too.

Anyone know how hard it is to change that sensor or switch whatever that part is?
 

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Hello Everyone

Thanks for all of your replies and feedback. I hope this thread will end up helping others.

Ok, so I went on a 60 - 70 mile ride with my kids and could not reproduce that flashing D light.

Before that I went to AutoZone to see if there scanner would pick up any codes and NONE. Their scanner did not catch any codes. I told the very nice guy the issue I had and asked them if they loan a little more high end scanners and ended up paying $249 which they will return when I bring this back.

So I scanned with that and still no codes.

View attachment 154526








Then playing around with that scanner I saw something which said Honda OEM, so scanned with that.

And look at this: View attachment 154527


View attachment 154528




Honda Parts is now closed, I didn't act fast enough or I could have just bought the part there but there are a few dealers open on Sundays too.

Anyone know how hard it is to change that sensor or switch whatever that part is?
The pressure switch may not actually be bad. A leaking seal on the clutch pack could fool the diagnostics. I would drain out some ATF and add a bottle of Lucas ATF fluid conditioner (20 oz bottle) NOT the TRANS- FIX! See how that goes first. I found it helped my tranny and have been driving it over 13000 miles since. Also make sure you don't overfill this time.
Let us know how that goes.

AZ
 

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I don't believe a slight overfill (1/4" or less) will cause any problems in a 2nd gen Ody. When I bought my used '03 I didn't notice that the ATF level was around 3/8" above the full mark and it didn't cause any problems at all.
When I did a drain and fill around 30k miles later is when I noticed how high it was. No problem. I would rather be 1/8" above the full mark than 1/8" below the full mark.
It might be that the new fluid fluid (fresh cleaning additives) dislodged a bit of varnish, etc and temp clogged up an orifice or screen in that valve.
I would do another drain and fill and make sure it is near the top line. Make sure you check that level when the vehicle is level and the fluid is around operating temp.
Reset that code if you can and see what happens.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't believe a slight overfill (1/4" or less) will cause any problems in a 2nd gen Ody. When I bought my used '03 I didn't notice that the ATF level was around 3/8" above the full mark and it didn't cause any problems at all.
When I did a drain and fill around 30k miles later is when I noticed how high it was. No problem. I would rather be 1/8" above the full mark than 1/8" below the full mark.
It might be that the new fluid fluid (fresh cleaning additives) dislodged a bit of varnish, etc and temp clogged up an orifice or screen in that valve.
I would do another drain and fill and make sure it is near the top line. Make sure you check that level when the vehicle is level and the fluid is around operating temp.
Reset that code if you can and see what happens.
Buffalo4

Hello

If you're in Buffalo, I'm close by in Jamestown, used to live in Lackawanna.

I also don't think a slight overfill will do any harm. After draining it, I had put 4 bottles of DW-1 in it of which a little was lost due to spillage.

OK so I cleared those Honda codes. Drove it 80 miles. and cannot get those codes to come up.

I put my trip to Texas on hold because of this.

Is it safe to head on over there or should I change those switches? What happens in terms of damage if those codes come up during my trip which is around 2600 miles.
 

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I can't help you with those decisions, but hopefully someone that is really good with those transmission will give you their opinion.
Was the atf pretty dark or did it smell burnt? If it looked pretty clean when you did the drain and fill, I would do another one and go on the trip. only my uneducated guess. if it was black or smelled burnt, that is another story.
Buffalo4
 

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This happened to me last year on a '10. Code not easily read. Dealer had to perform multiple tests to get a reading. Bottomline: some kind of pressure switch sensor on the bell housing of the transmission. Both Honda and AAMCO told me to replace the transmission. I said no, since I wanted the switch replaced. Drove it from DC to Orlando and back for spring break. No issues. When I got back, I took out the pressure switch that was flooded with ATF. Washed it off and re-installed it. No issues so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The car drives fine and was pretty much dealer maintained and the previous owner gave me a bunch of service receipts.

I found a dealer transmission flush receipt from 2014 where they replaced 12 quarts of DW-1 and mentions an additive which offers 'seal protection, better lubricity, sludge protection to keep your transmission running like new'. But this is almost 6 years ago. Don't know if any other flushes were done after that.

So here is what I'm thinking of doing / done.

I ordered the 3rd and 4th pressure switches and washers from Majestic Honda. which is a wonderful Honda dealer for genuine parts. AT ATF Pipe (5AT) for 2004 Honda ODYSSEY 5-DOOR | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts They ship the same day are an actual Honda dealer and super low prices and super friendly.

My local Honda STEALER ie (Jamestown Honda) quoted me $130 per switch which lists at $80 each. I floated the price difference to him but didn't see him coming down in price that much. I pray for the people that actually buy their new cars from this place.

I paid around $56 each at Majestic.

1. I will change those two switches 3rd and 4th with new ones I ordered.

2. If there is any fluid lost, I will add LubeGard red.

3. I will test drive for another 70 - 100 miles.

4. I will head on to Texas with the original switches which come out of the car and hopefully make it back.

5. After coming back I will redo the DW-1 drain and fill and LubeGard.


If anyone has any more suggestions please don't hold back.

THANK YOU - THANK YOU -THANK YOU
 

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What happens in terms of damage if those codes come up during my trip which is around 2600 miles.
Those pressure switches help the PCM make a smooth shift from 2-3 and 3-4 respectively. Their failure usually causes rough or delayed shifts. Surprised you got the code out of the blue with no symptoms. Maybe it was just a loose connector at the switch? (The switch is normally closed.)

On a long trip like what you are planning, there will be little shifting so little work for these switches. So I wouldn't hesitate to take the van on a long trip.
 

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I have never posted before, but I concur with the recommendation that you take your van on the trip. I owned an 04 EX absolutely trouble free for the last 11 years. I sold it last month with 285k miles on the clock and upgraded to a 16 SE with 35k. Anyway over the last 5 or 6 years and 100k miles the D light would blink occasionally. I never replaced any of the pressure switches, just did basic maintenance and fluid changes. I never was able to figure out what precipitated the light blinking, nor what made it stop. Generally, turning the ignition off, then restarting the van reset it.
 

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flashing D with no codes indicates that 1 of 3 things has or is failing. one of the two pressure switches accessible in the drivers wheel well (very likely) or a temp sensor(not likely) easy work to replace and no fluid loss. replacing both is good practice and revives some performance to the transmission.
 

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Here’s my experience with flashing D on my 2004 Odyssey. A few years ago driving from Iowa to California it started flashing D in Colorado, and eventually it stopped somewhere further along on the trip. Decided that with 300,000 miles I was going to risk it and just keep driving until it’s kaput.

It came on during the same trip two years later, also in Colorado. 12-hour driving days? Altitude? 85 octane gas? I was guessing, but these forums have mostly suggested 4th pressure switch.

That was the last time it came on, I’m now at 347,000 miles and everything feels the same to me, shifting / sound / etc. So as some other folks here have wondered, maybe code is getting triggered by something else and there is no real problem? It’s been beyond reliable! Timing belt at 300,000 and one control arm and one wheel bearing this whole time since buying at 244,000. Did my own brakes once. Has just developed small oil leak. 🤷‍♂️ I drive it as gently as I can. Looooooove this van!

TLDR: I had the flashing D come on a couple times about 50,000 and 25,000 miles ago and I have been driving it ever since and it has not come back on.
 

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I'm a career aircraft mechanic and this is my 2nd Ody (had a '00 for 5 years, then a '10 for 6 years now) and I did the drain/fill routine every 10k miles as the transmissions are the weak link on these. About 3 or 4 years ago through studying forums from knowledgeable folks like on here, I got away from the drain and fill and instead I follow closer to the Honda recommended routine except I do a FLUSH!!! You mentioned in "conversation #15" that the Dealer did a flush of 12 QT... That's about what I end up using too. It cost me around $60 to $70 to buy a small Harbor Freight 110 volt water pump designed for outdoor ponds and such plus nylon fittings, brass hose barbs etc to plump it to the Honda. You simply find the trans cooler line, disconnect, run the hose into a bucket, then add clear vinyl line with hose clamp to the hard line of the cooler then run both lines into empty containers. Start the engine for just a couple seconds then shut off and go see which one it came out -- this is your pressure line. The one it didn't come out of will be the return. Plumb the pump line to the return. Obtain a 3 or 4 gallon clear or white tank with a vent and a spout. I have a boat and use such a tank to run antifreeze into the outdrive. Any good boat store will have them cheap. Buy a case of Honda DW-1 and put 8 or 9 qts into the clean container and plumb it to the pump. Prime the pump dispensing into itself so you know it works and flows good. Should be like a mild garden hose flow... not slow and not too fast. Nylon reduce to 1/4" NPT then to hose barb to clear vinyl hose to fit the hard line, or to another hose barb to the transmission line as applicable. Put a large oil change bucket under the return line, make sure it goes to clear vinyl, and use a spring clamp to secure it to the oil catch bucket. Secure vehicle in park with parking brake or on ramps/jack stands. Have a helper start the engine and start the electric pump at the same time. Watch the exiting fluid come out which will be dark in color. Monitor that the level of new DW-1 in the container is getting lower. Soon you will notice that dark ATF coming out will start to get like "chocolate-strawberry milk" and then trasition to a nice red color. Have helper shut off engine and you shut of pump at the same time. If the tank of new DW-1 runs low, stop engine and pump before it runs out. Re-install the cooler line, clean, then run engine and confirm no leaks. Remove from jack stands/ramps and check the ATF service. Remember those 2 or 3 quarts you have left? Top off as needed to get ATF level correct then test drive. You should have at least one quart left over when all is done for top off until the next flush is due. I would do this procedure without a helper, and I even got in and with foot on brake, went through all gears (P-R-N-D-2-1) just for a short time, and was able to go back to the pump while it was all doing it's thing. This is the Home/DIY version of what the Honda Dealer wil charge you $200+ to perform. And I honestly don't trust ANYONE to service my vehicles, but that's just me. I have done 4 or 5 of these flushes on a couple Odysseys and even one Accord and had great results! Would you ever consider just removing your engine oil filter, empty the dirty oil, then top off - as opposed to a complete oil change? No!!! Then why would you only do a drain/fill??? Flush the whole thing... That's my oppinion, and that's what I have done to my vehicles for quite some time now. Best of luck...
 
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