My fog lights are installed, and functioning, with Chuck’s wiring modification, slightly modified. Thanks Chuck!
Honda should not be proud of the installation instructions. They could have been much better. Here are some of my comments:
When cutting the bumper openings forget measuring 10mm on the outside and 12mm on the inside; just use the existing openings on the left side and the corner holes on the right side as a guide. Be sure you don’t cut off the rib. In general, you don’t have to worry too much about making the hole a little too big, but if you make it too small you’ll have to spend time enlarging it. Test the fit of the light housings in the openings before you remove the bumper.
The instructions clearly instruct you to use the 5 x 10 mm washer-screws to install the light brackets. These are too short to mate with the spring nuts; use the longer screws here. Likewise, the “special washer-screws” are too long (or at least longer than necessary) to mount the light housing to the brackets, use the short ones. (Sure wish I had known this sooner.)
Either the wiring harness tags or the instructions misidentify the harnesses. This is pretty obvious when you go to install them. This error sure doesn’t instill confidence in the instructions.
Unless you’re working in a very clean area, put a plastic bag or tape over the fog light connectors and connector for Relay A while you’re working with the engine compartment harness. Since these connectors contain grease they attract dirt, sand, etc.
Install the clips for the right side of the wiring harness starting from the right side and working toward the left. It’s easier to line them up this way. You may find that the last clip needs to be removed and replaced with a wire tie. BTW a small socket makes a good tool to remove these clips.
Install Chuck’s wiring mod so you have absolute control over the fog lights. However, instead of soldering a jumper behind the light switch, install two wires with male/female connectors back where the legs of the harness come together. This way you can revert to “factory” operation by connecting the relay and disconnecting the jumper. You might want to do this if you sell the vehicle, many years from now
The grommet through the firewall is a great path for other wires, e.g., your external thermometer probe. Open up the tape and fish it through before you install the grommet.
Does/did anyone install silicone sealer around the grommet, per the instructions? I think it’s much more likely to leak because the tape comes loose (remember, you took it loose when you ran the wire for your thermometer). Since the grommet fits very well, if it’s going to leak the van is in danger of sinking and this becomes a very minor problem.
Consider cutting out a slot in the mounting tab for Relay B. Getting the mounting screw out isn’t too difficult, but I had a terrible time getting it back in. I couldn’t get both hands in place hanging upside down under the dash. Cutting a slot in the side of the mounting tab, so that it could be installed by simply loosening the bolt would have saved a lot of time and frustration. It’d still be very secure.
Hope this helps someone.