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Thanks eaglemtn. For only $200 extra, that is a deal! My independent has twice looked at mine and concluded there is no leak. I see no oil where I park, either. So if I have some seepage, it is small at present, but I will keep an eye on it.

I am several years, and a LOT of miles away from my next timing belt. As an extra, and some would say unnecessary, vehicle, not sure how my Ody ownership will play out.
 

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Im dealing with this now, and my indy (who used to work at the local stealer) is quoting me $1000 parts and labor to replace the pump, all teh seals and a new timing belt. NOt really sure what
I should do. My van has 228K and is pretty solid other wise. I did the TB and WP last summer, is there no way to reuse the belt? He indicates it could get worse and blow out while driving.
I've been driving it this way for the past 4 months, and have only had to add an extra quart between changes. Im tempted to live with it for a while longer.
 

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Interesting. I have had my 02 Ody in twice for warranty work lately and both times they told me I needed to fix the oil pump leak for $1,000+. The second time I had the mechanic show me the very small seepage, and asked him about whether it was worth fixing. He said he would not - that there is no catastrophic failure that could happen driving down the road, and he had never seen one leak enough that a quart was needed between oil changes. I will get my independent's opinion next time I take it in.

Huh. I just had all of my drive belts changed at the dealer and they told me my oil pump was seeping and if I didnt take care of it now that it would be 1000+ later to do so... AND that it could fail in the next 100 or 1000 miles....

Crooks
 

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I am going through oil leak fix. I already did my TB just this weekend. If I have to open up the pump, can I save my TB parts or do I have to get a whole new kit again?

Is there a way to tell if it is at the oil pump?
 

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Thanks to everyone's responses on this thread - I am always amazed at how much I learn from everyone else's experiences! I also have recently discovered an oil leak problem just around the solenoid valve assembly (by the bolts near the oil filter). All of this comes less than 6 months after having the timing belt replaced. I don't know if this is a coincidence or maybe caused by them working on the timing belt, etc. Needless to say I'm a bit frustrated.

After reading these threads, my thought is to try to fix the problem with a few quick easy steps and see if that helps or eliminates the problem entirely. First, I plan on replacing the PCV valve - as everyone points out it is one of the easiest things to do here, and I had no idea it might be connected! Second, I bought the two gaskets for the solenoid assembly (the one that looks like a web of 5 rings together and then the o-ring that actually seals the solenoid valve. Two easy things to replace and best to check BEFORE we get into the whole oil pump seal.

So my question is this: do you need to drain all the oil from the engine to replace the solenoid assembly seal ? Or, will all of the oil be in the pan and lower parts of the engine? I just did an oil change the other day as I was trying to investigate this problem so I would prefer not to have to discard the new oil, but obviously, I can if needed. I know some oil will come out with the oil filter, etc. which I can top off, I just don't know if I should drain the whole thing first. Any advice is much appreciated.
 

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The entire assembly sits above the level of the oil pan. There will be some oil in the passages that enter the oil filter and exit from it, along with those associated with the solenoid operated valve, but the bulk of your engine's oil is in the oil pan. The oil filter is at the same level as the oil pan, but oil is not going to siphon its way out when you remove the assembly.



OF
 

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my 2000 ody has been leaking oil from the oil pump/timing cover for 3 years now.
paper towel on top of an aluminum tray on the garage floor fixed that problem!
 

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2001, same oil "drip". just put piece of cardboard on garage floor. Like others, maybe, a qt or less between oil changes. (once to avoid having to check oil level to often, just put in extra pt or so).

Friend has 282K miles on 1999. Had same oil leak, said, one day it just stopped on it's own. weird.
 

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My 99 Ody with 290k miles was leaking at the oil pump/engine block. This past weekend I replaced the oil pump and all seals involved. Took 10 hours. I bought the oil pump and seals from an online Honda dealer for $262 . Although I'm sure the original pump was fine and just needed to be resealed, I decided to replace it as long as I had the old one in my hand.
It's a bunch of work and attention to details and cleanliness are important.
The timing belt, exhaust downpipe and oil pan need to be removed along with the oil pump and oil filter adapter.
A few notes for others who are thinking of doing this.
1. The engine needs to be lifted about 1" to get the oil pan off. I used the AC compressor bracket as the point for the block of wood and jack to lift the engine.
2. I learned that permatex ultra grey is equivalent to the Honda gasket sealant.
3. The permatex sealant must be used in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. Most important is that you have to wait 24 hours before putting oil in the engine. It takes that long for the sealant to cure.
4. To make sure the new oil pump was working I used my Makita 1/2" cordless drill to turn the 3/4" crankshaft bolt and turn the engine. With no plugs in the engine the drill was able to spin the engine. I left the oil filter off so I could confirm oil was being pumped and then installed the oil filter to pre-lube the filter/engine.
5. Refer to the Honda shop manual for all the procedures. Timing belt removal/installation, oil pump replacement.

Parts:
15825-P8A-A01 oil filter adapter gasket
15100-P8E-A01 yamada oil pump - the original pump on the engine was stamped Asin. The pump comes with the rubber gasket between the pump and block. Also comes with crankshaft oil seal.
91310-PH7-000 oil pickup tube o-ring

I had recently replaced the timing belt and associated parts so they were not replaced. This is how I saw where the oil was leaking from. It was leaking under the timing belt lower cover and by the oil filter adapter.

Now there isn't a single drop of oil on the garage floor. I had the car to the dealer for an alignment before I did the work. They quoted $1300 for the job. And it's worth every penny of $1300 if you don't want to DIY.
 
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