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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After getting my alternator, pre-cat, oil pan, sub-frame, splash shield, etc COVERED with oil from this leaky assembly, I finally found the front VTEC gaskets for the front VTEC/VCM solenoid/assembly, whatever you want to call it. The gaskets are not made by Honda, you have to buy them aftermarket, unfortunately. Honda actually discontinued the front VTEC assembly for some reason, they still have the rear assembly for sale. (hopefully the rear assembly doesn't leak anytime soon)

You'll need these 2 gaskets:
15845-R70-A01
15815-R70-A01

Here is a video on replacing the gaskets:
https://youtu.be/18WOVpwmRqY
 

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Thanks for the post! I googled it at the dealer during my $12.95 oil change and ordered the parts off Amazon. 2 days later, my son and I replaced the gaskets in about 45 minutes! I love Odyclub!
 

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You'll need these 2 gaskets:
15845-R70-A01
15815-R70-A01


Here is a video on replacing the gaskets:
Are these part numbers for the 2005-2010 Odyssey? I was confused by your profile picture which shows a 2011. Thanks. Trying to find part numbers for my 2011
 

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Hey Ranger this is the areas I was telling you on the PM. Does that mean I need to use honda bond or any gasket maker on those areas?... thanks again
 

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Kai, I dont think you want to take the base (lower part) of assembly off the engine block unless you are sure it is leaking there. The Hondabond is used to glue/gasket the base to the engine block. If you go the replace two gaskets method shown in Rangers video, you dont use Hondabond, just carefully place the two gaskets in place and reassemble. I did the job recently on my 11 Odys and just took apart the new assembly and used the two gaskets and the whole upper part that contains the solenoids. I did not remove the base from the engine block as that was not leaking and is a big job involving valvetrain seals, etc.
Does this make sense?
 

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Kai, I dont think you want to take the base (lower part) of assembly off the engine block unless you are sure it is leaking there. The Hondabond is used to glue/gasket the base to the engine block. If you go the replace two gaskets method shown in Rangers video, you dont use Hondabond, just carefully place the two gaskets in place and reassemble. I did the job recently on my 11 Odys and just took apart the new assembly and used the two gaskets and the whole upper part that contains the solenoids. I did not remove the base from the engine block as that was not leaking and is a big job involving valvetrain seals, etc.
Does this make sense?
Perfect, gotcha. Didn't notice it. Crazy thing is that I have seen his video about 5 times lol...
 

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I wish I had taken pictures. Here are the steps as I remember:

Here is Hondas TSB that has good illustrations. I remembered about the document after I typed all this...ha ha


Buy replacement assembly, I bought Honda -Valve Assembly, Front Spool - Honda (15810-R70-A04)

Special tools : torque wrench that can do 6 ft-lb, pretty small torque wrench

Cleanup leaking area on engine block, plastic safe engine cleaner, toothbrush, microfiber cloth, etc. Dont want stuff falling into block when open later

Cleanup any oil that leaked down onto alternator - spray on microfiber cloth with toothbrush to push into cracks, etc worked well for me

Cover up alternator, serp belt, etc - you will spill a little oil when you remove assembly from engine

Disassemble replacement assembly, remove 3 screws shown in video, lift off upper assembly (solenoids in aluminum base), locate 2 black rubber gaskets, dividing plate, and locating roll pins. Stack should be:
upper assembly with solenoids
gasket 1
stainless steel dividing plate
gasket 2
base you dont need

If not loose - Carefully remove gasket 2 from base so you can transfer into base on the engine - I suggest plastic putty knife or your fingernail, dont use screwdriver or pick, gasket is soft, metal tools will cut gasket or damage machined sealing grooves

on car - engine cover, disconnect 2 electrical connectors

on engine, take 3 screws out of upper assembly, lift off carefully, dont drop alignment pins, I think there are 2. Be prepared for some oil to spill...

remove gasket from base on engine, suggest use plastic tools, dont scratch sealing groove on engine... Mine was stuck pretty good, took some peeling to get an edge then get a grip to peel off

clean sealing grooves on engine

new gasket on

make sure have alignment pins (2?)

on new upper assembly, make sure gasket is aligned right, I held mine on with the stainless steel plate I think

set new upper assembly on, check that all gaskets are still in their grooves

torque 3 screws to 6 ftlb per Honda tsb

wipe down any oil, clean area again so you can see that it not leaking later and think how awesome your mechanic skills are...

electrical connectors and engine cover

double check Honda TSB for anything I forgot about...

crank, check for leaks... Miller time
 

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Thank you @scottmacho - Pretty resent TSB. I'll be doing both valve covers as well.
 

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No reason to buy the whole valve anymore people, just search the gasket part numbers in the first post on Amazon. I did mine a few months back and it's bone dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Ranger this is the areas I was telling you on the PM. Does that mean I need to use honda bond or any gasket maker on those areas?... thanks again
No you don't touch that part. Watch my video again. Removing the bottom parts requires you to mess with the valvetrain.
 

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Yeah if they are in specs leave them alone. If you have been muzzled for a while you don't need to touch them.
Finally did everything today valve covers, VTEC gasket, spark plugs. U were right on both valve cover needing an spot of ultra gray or honda bond. Thanks for all the info
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Discussion Starter #19
Finally did everything today valve covers, VTEC gasket, spark plugs. U were right on both valve cover needing an spot of ultra gray or honda bond. Thanks for all the info
How did the rear valve cover removal go :LOL:
 

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How did the rear valve cover removal go :LOL:
Oh boy....a language that I haven't used in a while came out a few times. Holy cow!!. I was like bro!... just give 2 more inches of wire and Ill be good....why make this so tight. And besides that... everything back there is done blind folded
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