Our Odyssey was rear-ended on Memorial Day, and we just got it back from the body shop. They did a nice job on the repair, but I noticed that evening that the left-side power sliding door would not open, and would not stay unlocked. Knowing the interrelationship with the fuel filler door, I pulled the lever, and the fuel filler door would not open.
No offense to the professionals at the Body Shop, but I figured I'd put my 3 Engineering degrees to work diagnosing this electro-mechanical conundrum before returning the Ody to the body shop. I had visions of them pulling door motors and trying to replace fuel door lever cables...
Anyway, I figured out that the plunger that pushes the fuel filler door open and tells the Ody's brain when the fuel filler door is shut was not being pushed in. A piece on the door intended to bear against this plunger was missing. Without this piece, the plunger lacks the throw to open the door.
A Honda dealer is close by, and I picked up the part there for $1.98 plus tax. It popped right in, and all is once again right in Ody-ville.
I'm not blaming the body shop; the piece could have been knocked loose in the collision. The body shop had no reason to try to open the fuel filler door. Plus, my spending 2 bucks and fixing it myself was far preferable to returning the Ody to the body shop.
I've found some threads here on the left-side power sliding door and the fuel filler door, but I didn't see and with quite this issue. Many involved the switch or the sheet metal fuel filler door protrusion.
I hope this thread may help somone with a similar issue.
Pictures follow.
Door with piece missing (piece attachment hole on far left, plunger on far right):
I disagree. You should blame the body shop. The final check of any type of repair should be a check of all the components of the van. The jar from a rear end crash could cause damage anywhere in the van.
Kudos to the OP for showing the ingenuity to find and fix this himself. In this age of lawyers and computers, I think we sometimes forget how to think for ourselves.
OK, I have this problem now, and my plastic piiece is there. I recall hearing a "thunk" when you push in the button. I don't hear this anymore. the door must think the gas cap is still open so it does not work. Anybody have suggestions? Thanks....!
Hi, I have a 2005 EX which is out of warranty. We have had the issue now for a while but to this point have dealt with it. I would like to get this fixed without dropping $500 plus at the dealer. I had read previously that there is also a way to unplug the sensor that prevents the driver side slider from opening because it thinks the fuel door is open. Also, I am not able to see te pictures included in the first post of this thread? Are they available? If anyone can provide some help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
I have tried bending and manipulating the metal arm so that the gas cap door opens when the lever is pulled. I used to hear some sort of "thunk" in the sliding door when the gas cap is opened. I just don't hear it anymore, and now the door does not open.
Try pushing on the switch by hand with the filler door open then operate the sliding door. If it doesn't open, it's probably a bad switch. (Be ready to close the filler door quickly if the sliding door opens.)
OK, tried pulling the fuse to see if it would reset. No go. Tried disconnecting the battery too. No go. Definitely something in the switch. Has anyone ever replaced the switch? I wonder how you get to it. Also, where would I find the part number? Thanks to all, this forum has been a great assistance.
ok, asked too soon. On a link to a dealership here I found the part, Honda 74380-50X-A01 "Cable Slidiing Door Stopper Sensor" Looks like I have to pull off a plastic cover in the rear wheel well. When I do the repair I will try and post pictures.
The fuel filler door switch disables the sliding door through a fuel filler door relay. The switch closes when the filler door is open and then it pulls the relay that controls the door. That could be the thunk that you used to hear, although a relay doesn't usually make that much noise. In any case, either the switch or the relay could be bad.
Both are accessed from inside the van through the rear plastic panel.
You may need to do some more diagnosis before buying any parts.
I will try to describe the location of the fuel filler door relay from the photo in the shop manual.
With the panel off, it's at 8:00 from the middle row seat belt retractor. The left side wiring harness runs between the seat belt belt retractor and the relay inside a flexible tube curving from top left to bottom right. The relay is grey in colour. It's mounted vertically with the connector at the bottom.
BTW, the relay is powered from fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box. Might want to test it first.
Thanks Dave for being so helpful, I will look for it. I tested the fuse, it's OK. I tried to do the reset with the fuse, then the battery, but the door is in full lockdown.
I ordered the switch, and it should arrive in the next few days. Hopefully that will be the ticket, if not I will order a new relay.
Hi Dave and all, I need help in figuring out how to pull off the rear side panels. I tried to remove the small compartment, but could not. Thanksssssss!~
No problem. The shop manual has only a diagram that shows the removal of the left rear quarter panel. Here is how I interpret the diagram:
To start, wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges. Also, wrap the pry bar in vinyl tape to prevent scratching the panels.
Next, remove the following:
1. Speaker grille and speaker, including some mounting screws behind the speaker
2. Rear accessory socket
3. Jack cover
4. Brake light failure sensor behind the jack cover
5. 2nd row seat belt anchor
6. 3rd row seat belt anchor
7. Cargo net hooks
Next, pull the quarter window glass trim up to clear the hooks protruding from the panel.
Next, pull off the sliding door trim adjacent to the panel to clear the hooks protruding from the panel.
Lastly, pull off the panel. It floats along the bottom edge but is held by 6 clips along the top edge. Pry these free. Also, pry free two clips at the rear edge of the panel near the tailgate. The panel should now come off.
When you reattach the seat belt anchors, torque the bolts to 24 ft-lbs.
Thanks Dave, I found a schematic too, and I am going to try this tonight. I hope it is the switch after all of this work. The switch is really a cable that attaches to another cable which triggers a door lock and a buzzer. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
