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Discussion Starter #1
I did my oil change on my 10 Accord V6 (2nd time). Same J-V6 as the Ody. Everything went smooth.

This is the first time I'm doing an oil change on the Ody.

On the Ody, I notice the drain bolt ( or oil pan) seems to have an angle. This made it hard for me to the wrench around it. It slipped, and I was starting to round out the bolt. The Accord for example, the wrench was in a straight line top to bottom from the bolt. The Ody was at an angle, tilted toward the rear when the wrench was on the bolt.

Maybe I should stop, and did.

Took it to a quick lube place, and they got it done.

Question. Is there such an angle? I swear there is vs the Accord. I just did it on the Accord, so I know what I was doing. Same engine.

I turned the wheel to the right, and work from the right side. Ok, the Ody is wider, so there is more of a reach. But still, why did I have a more difficult time with the Ody? Should I have taken the right wheel off?

I read many oil change threads here and there was no mentioning of this.

Was it just me?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cnn said:
it is a piece of cake:
I book marked your thread and read it more than 5 times.

That's exactly what I did. Piece of cake (on the Accord). I don't know why I had such a difficult time with the Ody?

Yes, I did not use an adjustable wrench. Closed wrench 17mm and even tried a socket too.

It was previously serviced by the dealer, could they have tighten it way too tight (more than 29lbs)?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cnn said:
Good point, maybe the bolt was rounded off to start with?

Anyway, get a new drain bolt. They are cheap $4-5 or so.
Yes, I end up paying for one (at the quick lube place).

Let's try it again 4-5 months from now. :(
 

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Also, just because something has the same engine doesn't mean everything is identical. Accessories, belts, oil pan, filters, etc. can be completely different between models due to other chassis/engine compartment limitations.

I've not had any problems with mine. I have found dealers and OEM maintenance parts to typically be over-tightened. The oil drain plug isn't a good one to overtighten...aluminum pans don't take kindly to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
skinny2 said:
I have found dealers and OEM maintenance parts to typically be over-tightened. The oil drain plug isn't a good one to overtighten...aluminum pans don't take kindly to it.
With all my girly muscles, I could not turn the bolt. Like I said, no problem with the Accord drain bolt with one hand.

I actually took two hands to it, and realize something was not right.

Dealer probably didn't want me to touch my own car.
 

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Actually, the easiest way to remove the drain bolt is: because of the tight space at home with limited ground clearance on a wood ramp (van not on a lift like dealer), I use a Rubber Hammer and tap the 17-mm wrench a few times. It comes right now.

Just remember to tap in the right direction. See the pic above.
 

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cnn said:
Actually, the easiest way to remove the drain bolt is: because of the tight space at home with limited ground clearance on a wood ramp (van not on a lift like dealer), I use a Rubber Hammer and tap the 17-mm wrench a few times. It comes right now.

Just remember to tap in the right direction. See the pic above.
This is what I had to do on both of my Hondas (Accord and Ody). It was serviced at Hell Mart quick lube one time, they over tighten just about everything when it comes to oil change. I just took a regular hammer to the wrench, tab at it few times to get it loose. Man, that was hard work. Anyways, that was like 18 months ago, but now, since I am doing to job, no problem at all. Also, using Synthetic rather than conventional (personal preference here).

I ordered bunch of oil filters and drain plug from online honda place to last me at least a year of oil change on 2 honda vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Let me understand something. Tap it with a rubber hammer. How is that different from me going ape on pulling on the wrench?

Is the tapping actually more effective than all out strength?
 

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Yes and I'm sure someone specializing in physics could explain why. I've had tight bolts before that just a good whack with my hand even is more effective than just pulling hard. I'm sure it would be different if you could put your body weight into it (like using a tire iron to loosen a lug nug) but that's about impossible on an oil pan.
 

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GoLowDrew said:
Let me understand something. Tap it with a rubber hammer. How is that different from me going ape on pulling on the wrench?

Is the tapping actually more effective than all out strength?
I guess you can go ape. But as long as you go from 5:30 to 7 o'clock then it is OK.

I am not ape LOL so I find it easier to give it a few gentle rubber hammer taps. Piece of cake.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cnn said:
I guess you can go ape. But as long as you go from 5:30 to 7 o'clock then it is OK.

I'm going to sound stupid, but here goes. Right to tight. Left to loose. So if I'm standing on the right side. Facing the wheel. I got my wrench on. As I doubt myself, my successful change on the Accord leaves me uncertain now thinking back.

To loosen the bolt, do I....

Pull toward me? Or push toward the car (left)?
 

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Pull towards you.

One other thing I found is that when using a socket, buy a 6 point socket, as the 12 point tends to round off the points (and yes, that is from experience!! )
 

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Discussion Starter #15
txaggie said:
Pull towards you.

One other thing I found is that when using a socket, buy a 6 point socket, as the 12 point tends to round off the points (and yes, that is from experience!! )
Yeah, I thnk everything I have is 12 pt. So is it better to use the "open side" shape like an U?

I think a new single 17mm wrench cost the same as a new drain bolt.
 

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GoLowDrew said:
I'm going to sound stupid, but here goes. Right to tight. Left to loose....
Everything was discussed in the DIY link in my post above dated June07, 2010. I thought you read my DIY before doing this oil change.

Under normal situation when you face any bolt, clockwise to tighten and CCW to loosen. This is the case at the dealer when the tech has the car up on the lift and he stands in the middle of the car facing the drain plug.

In my DIY, at home most of us crawl from the front to undo the bolt, so it is the opposite view.

Here you go again. Nothing magic about this bolt. This picture says it all. The key thing is always think in terms of CW or CCW, depending on the situation:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachment.php?&postid=523213
 

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skinny2 said:
Yes and I'm sure someone specializing in physics could explain why. I've had tight bolts before that just a good whack with my hand even is more effective than just pulling hard. I'm sure it would be different if you could put your body weight into it (like using a tire iron to loosen a lug nug) but that's about impossible on an oil pan.
Skinny, GoLow, Its not your imagination. Different coefficients of friction exists in different physical scenarios. Typically, the coefficient of static friction is larger than the coefficient of dynamic (or kinetic) friction. This varies according to materials in question and to the degree of lubrication between the materials in question. The short story is yes, wacking the bolt is a more effective mechanism to get it moving than a steady yet strong pull.

This may explain it more clearly than I:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/frict2.html
 
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