G FORCE Performance chip anyone tried it ?

Never heard of them so I looked up their website.
One thing I noticed that seems a bit hard to believe--you connect their device using the IAT sensor to somehow reprogram your Control Module. There is likely more to it than that but I can't believe there is a method THAT simple that will give 4-7 mpg better economy AND lower emissions AND more HP.
I would love to hear from someone who has done this.
It does look like they had originally priced this at $399 and have dropped the price to $69. I can't imagine anyone would risk $399 on this. If I wasn't SO skeptical I'd risk the $70 myself.

BTW, I have decades of electronics experience and I've never heard of a legitimate reprogramming method that could be done by "anyone". They are designed to be sole source (Honda) controlled programming. Logic also makes me think that if GFCHIPS could come up with a fuel trim that would give them such an amazing edge over Toyota that Honda would have already bought out GFCHIPS and embedded their technology. As it stands, the 2011 Ody only gets 19 city and 28 hiway. Impressive for a rolling brick--not so impressive 12 years later. Geez, my 2000 gets 26 hiway and has been paid for 6 years.

Here is the mod for the Ford guys. You'll have to go through chiltons to figure out which wires line up with the IAT and the ECT sensors but other than that you should be able to figure it out.

Also, doing this will make your car a premium fuel only car.

Pots IAT/ECT Installation version 2

Submitted by Aaron Taulbee

Note: You must be able to solder for this Mod.

Parts needed:

A Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) switch

A 20? role of 18gauge red wire and black wire

A splice connectors (Red ones) that look like long skinny barrels or cylinders.

Tie straps and Electrical tape

2 Trimmer POTS, the types to buy are completely up to the individual. You can buy linear ones so you know exactly the amount of resistance your applying. You can also buy ones that are mountable so you can mount them somewhere in the car for easy adjustments (recommended). I bought two very small and very cheap ones and put them inside a small kit box. The box way works, but no it is very difficult to tune them, I have to take my car apart to do it. The choice is up to you.

Tools needed:

Soldering iron and associated equipment

Phillips screwdriver. More screwdrivers/tools may be needed depending on where you will be mounting the switch and the POTS.

Wire cutters, wire strippers, and crimpers.

Drill for mounting the switch

First off you have to build the circuit.

Take everything out that you bought at Radio Shack/Electronics Store and start to heat up your soldering iron.

Take your black and red wire and cut it into 4 5? sections of each color.

Using tie straps or Electrical tape, strap one black wire to one red wire. Do this for all 4 wires.

Next you have to solder. We?ll start with the POTS first. Note: If you want, you can use some heat shrink on each connection to ensure they don?t touch. Note2: If you plan on using small pots and a kit box, then the set of wires going from the pot to the switch can be significantly shortened since they will be inside the box. Take one set of wires that you strapped together strip and tin the ends. Take another set and strip and tin those ends. Take the two red wires and solder them both to the center pin of the pot. Now solder the two black wires to one of the outside pins. Doesn?t matter which one, the difference will be which way you have to turn the pots to turn them up and down. Just try to get both pots the same; you can use a multi-meter to accomplish this. Now do the same thing for the other POT.

Take one set of tire strapped wires from one pot and strip and tin those. Do this for the other pot as well. Now solder one set of tinned wires to each pin of one side of the switch. It doesn?t matter which wire goes which pin. Now take the set of tinned wires from the other pot and do the same on the other side of the switch.

Use a little electrical tape or heat shrink to cover all exposed pins. If your using small trimmer pots and bought a kit box, now would be the time to cut a slit in the box and put the pots inside of it. Soldering is complete and you?re ready to install in the car.

Take your center dash apart using the Phillips screwdriver. There will be two screws on the part that covers you parking break towards the rear on the sides. After removing that, there will be two screws just behind the shifter where the front of the last piece you took of was. Lastly remove the 4 plastic tabs up in front of the cup holders. Unscrew your shift knob and the whole piece should come out.

With the center counsel removed your computer and wiring harness is exposed. Find the Blue wire with a white stripe/Pin #38 on the harness. Get a good spot to cut the wire and cut it. Make sure you leave enough room on the end going to the harness to be able to strip the wire and crimp to it. Now strip both sides of the wire you just cut. Take one set of your POTS wires and strip those. Using your crimpers, crimp one of your splice connectors to each of the wires you just cut. Now crimp the wire that is going to the computer, it?s the one going into the wiring harness, to the Red wire of your pots mod. Crimp the wire going to the sensor to the Black wire. Next, find the White wire with a green stripe/Pin #39 on the harness. Repeat previous steps for this wire as you did the Blue and white wire.

Now find a location to mount your switch and POTS. Drill the required holes and mount them.

Put your car back together and go and try them out! Note: If you decided to have the POTS hidden behind the dash in a kit box, I recommend adjusting them to your liking before putting your center counsel back together.

Their information is exactly the same no matter what model of car you select.
I can't find any details in the Helms manual about how the PCM handles IAT input so it's hard to say if it would have any affect at all.
They make the same claims for Maxima and I30 and use the IAT sensor. I DO KNOW for a fact that the Nissan IAT sensor has ZERO affect on engine running. It is purely for diagnostic purposes and even states so in their documentation. So, changing this input is about as useful as a poopy flavored lollypop!

Even if this worked on Honda's I would never even attempt this on the ODY. If all they are doing is tweaking IAT sensor input--what's the point? The PGM-FI has parameters to optimize fuel trim based on sensor input. As much as I hate to give Honda engineers credit for anything after their debacle with the tranny--they KNOW what they are doing with programmed fuel injection. Their programming is based on years of formula 1 racing experience. Screwing with the IAT sensor input may or may not improve gas mileage. I'm sure whatever it would screw up would cause more permanent damage than it's worth.
My advice instead is to replace your stock O2 sensor with a Bosch sensor. That alone will give most people 10 to 25% better city mileage. (Yes, EVEN WILD WILLY! )

Honda knows what they are doing when it comes to engines! (And I'm a cynic these days when it comes to Honda! )
Their stupidity with the A/T stems from trying to avoid paying patent fees to Borg Warner for using a WELL designed tranny by reinventing an electronically controlled A/T with a STUPID design. They should have just paid for it--but whatever.