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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Drove the van one night and everything was fine. Went to drive it the next morning, and the gas gauge is under E but gas is in it. ABS light is on and the VSA light is on. There are three codes popping up.

Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High
Passenger Airbag problem (forgot what it said)
Right Rear Speed Sensor

The last two I'm not worried about at the moment (but feel free to explain the VSA one) but its the dang gas gauge not working that's bugging me and my wife drives it. I'm trying to figure out the problem. Wires look okay underneath the car and on the fuel pump itself. Havent taken out the fuel pump yet to look. Would anyone help with my situation? What part do I need? Anything can help. I'm not the type to take it to a dealership, just want to figure this out on my own?

Also I know there is a tool you can get to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, but is there another way without using the lock ring too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Van: 2007 Honda

Drove the van one night and everything was fine. Went to drive it the next morning, and the gas gauge is under E but gas is in it. ABS light is on and the VSA light is on. There are three codes popping up.

Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High
Passenger Airbag problem (forgot what it said)
Right Rear Speed Sensor

The last two I'm not worried about at the moment (but feel free to explain the VSA one) but its the dang gas gauge not working that's bugging me and my wife drives it. I'm trying to figure out the problem. Wires look okay underneath the car and on the fuel pump itself. Havent taken out the fuel pump yet to look. Would anyone help with my situation? What part do I need? Anything can help. I'm not the type to take it to a dealership, just want to figure this out on my own?

Also I know there is a tool you can get to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, but is there another way without using the lock ring too?
 

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Also I know there is a tool you can get to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, but is there another way without using the lock ring too?
I used a screwdriver and tapped it to remove the lock ring. This was to drain the gas before salvaging my '99.

Oh, we know your Odyssey is a Honda :giggle: It would help to post the trim along with the year. And if you click the 3 dots on the upper right of your post, you can Edit your post (instead of duplicating it!):)
 

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Drove the van one night and everything was fine. Went to drive it the next morning, and the gas gauge is under E but gas is in it. ABS light is on and the VSA light is on. There are three codes popping up.

Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High
Passenger Airbag problem (forgot what it said)
Right Rear Speed Sensor

The last two I'm not worried about at the moment (but feel free to explain the VSA one) but its the dang gas gauge not working that's bugging me and my wife drives it. I'm trying to figure out the problem. Wires look okay underneath the car and on the fuel pump itself. Havent taken out the fuel pump yet to look. Would anyone help with my situation? What part do I need? Anything can help. I'm not the type to take it to a dealership, just want to figure this out on my own?

Also I know there is a tool you can get to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, but is there another way without using the lock ring too?
VSA works with your car's ABS system ABS system works with Speed sensor. If your speed sensor does not work, VSA wouldn't work well so that does make some sense.

What was the actual DTC code?

Anyways, here is the Fuel gauge sending unit testing procedure:
Font Parallel Art Pattern Circle


Font Parallel Rectangle Circle Auto part


For DTC B1176:
Font Material property Parallel Number Screenshot

B1175:
Font Number Screenshot

Tableware Font Drinkware Parallel Serveware
 

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If you dont fix it right away, keep the van full of fuel, put a gas can in it just in case, get an idea of its range and use the tripmeter as a gauge.
Ive known people that got away without a gauge for years you just have to be smart about it- think in reverse to having a gauge. That starts with keeping it full instead of waiting to run out. If you know the van goes say 300 miles on a tank then 280 on the trip meter is E.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you dont fix it right away, keep the van full of fuel, put a gas can in it just in case, get an idea of its range and use the tripmeter as a gauge.
Ive known people that got away without a gauge for years you just have to be smart about it- think in reverse to having a gauge. That starts with keeping it full instead of waiting to run out. If you know the van goes say 300 miles on a tank then 280 on the trip meter is E.
That's what I have been doing. I know its a 21 gallon tank so keep if full and look at the miles. I just keeps bugging me and the wife always ask if the van is good on gas. Just want to get it fixed if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
VSA works with your car's ABS system ABS system works with Speed sensor. If your speed sensor does not work, VSA wouldn't work well so that does make some sense.

What was the actual DTC code?

Anyways, here is the Fuel gauge sending unit testing procedure:
View attachment 163732

View attachment 163733

For DTC B1176:
View attachment 163734
B1175:
View attachment 163735
View attachment 163736
Thanks! Where did you find this? Link? Will definitely be looking at this when I try to fix it this week! Hopefully...
 

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Had similar problem on my 2001. But after a couple of "fill ups", gas gauge starting working fine. Been couple of years now. IMHO, as other posters have said. Just keep track of you miles. Say, every 200 miles. Fill up.

Odds are, the problem is probably the sending unit on the fuel pump. So a fuel pump replacement should solve the issue. (Maybe, there is a piece of "crud", stuck on something, that is preventing the sending unit from operating correctly.).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So got a new fuel pump in and tested it. We took out the connector and didn't get a connection or a voltage but the van still turns on? We tried the connector on the new fuel pump and nothing on the gauge side. So not the pump itself or the sending unit. Any other ideas of what it could possibly be? Anything up front I could check and look at? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Had similar problem on my 2001. But after a couple of "fill ups", gas gauge starting working fine. Been couple of years now. IMHO, as other posters have said. Just keep track of you miles. Say, every 200 miles. Fill up.

Odds are, the problem is probably the sending unit on the fuel pump. So a fuel pump replacement should solve the issue. (Maybe, there is a piece of "crud", stuck on something, that is preventing the sending unit from operating correctly.).
Okay, we tried a new fuel pump and tested it and we didn't get anything back on the gauge side. Still on E. So, it could be a wiring issue? I'm not great with wires but willing to learn. What should I check exactly?
 

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So per the document in post #4 by hpark21 did you check the sending unit?
Have to remove the fuel pump in order to change the float position.
If you still have the old one, test that to see if it actually worked.
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Auto part


Since the van runs, I suspect the testing procedure. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We did check the sending unit on the new one and nothing happened when we moved the unit up and down. On top of all this, when the van is on, and the side sliding doors are open there is a continous beeping noise. The only way to get it off is the turn the switch off but have to manually close the doors or just shut them and it will turn off. Drives my wife crazy. I don't know if this could be a gauge issue? I'm probably going to take it somewhere and have someone look at it and give me some details of what is happening. Anyone have anything in mind of where I should take it? Honda dealership?
 

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:unsure: So you couldn't see any change in resistance when you measured the sending unit, and wonder why gas gauge still doesn't work?
Did you have your meter set for measuring ohms?
The meter would be set for DC Volts when measuring the connector that plugs into the fuel pump.
Your sliding doors are completely separate from the gas gauge and fuel sending unit. Completely different problem.
Dealership? You like spending lots of money?
I'm sorry, I have too many questions and no answers for you.:oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know and it's hard to try to let you know exactly what is happening through typing it out. (I'll ask about the door in some other thread lol) So, let's start over to the beginning:

maybe it could be a wiring issue? When we checked the connector, it showed nothing. Wasn't getting anything. We plugged that connector into the new pump to test it out and moved the sending unit up and down and that didn't do anything on the guage. So my question is: Would it be a wiring issue? Where would I start?

Sorry, I'm still new to working on cars and just trying to get as much knowledge as I can to help me out. I thank you for taking time to help me out, even though I'm not helping much. I really don't want to take it to a dealership. I did watch a video:


If this is the case, I just need someone who has this stuff to do this. I sadly don't have it. Unless there is a different way I could do this...
 

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Yeah, probably best to take it in.
The guy in the video, I can't tell which wires he was connecting to. On the fuel pump- connector 1&2 (next to the empty one) are what you measure resistance (ohms) for the sending unit. The others- 4&5 power the pump.
Very convoluted to connect the "resistance generator" to the wire connector! o_O

maybe it could be a wiring issue? When we checked the connector, it showed nothing.
Per the Test Procedure posted above, (Step 7) wires 1&2 (which are Black with White stripe and Yellow with Black stripe) should measure 12 volts with the key in the on position. Per the video description, I would expect those two wires to be thinner than 4&5- but personally I rely on the connector position and wire colors!
Rectangle Triangle Font Parallel Diagram

We plugged that connector into the new pump to test it out and moved the sending unit up and down and that didn't do anything on the guage.
Oh- you did have the key On when you were testing? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, probably best to take it in.
The guy in the video, I can't tell which wires he was connecting to. On the fuel pump- connector 1&2 (next to the empty one) are what you measure resistance (ohms) for the sending unit. The others- 4&5 power the pump.
Very convoluted to connect the "resistance generator" to the wire connector! o_O


Per the Test Procedure posted above, (Step 7) wires 1&2 (which are Black with White stripe and Yellow with Black stripe) should measure 12 volts with the key in the on position. Per the video description, I would expect those two wires to be thinner than 4&5- but personally I rely on the connector position and wire colors!
View attachment 164016

Oh- you did have the key On when you were testing? :unsure:
lol, yes I did have the key on when testing. haha
 

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lol, yes I did have the key on when testing. haha
So, you confirmed the voltage is sent on the pin 1+2 as listed in the troubleshooting guide with key on? (you check this on the CONNECTOR from the gauge side NOT on the pump)
You tested the resistance level between 1+2 changes with level up and down? (you check this on the PUMP side)
You don't just connect the plug and move the float up and down to see if your gauge changes. You have to test things separately to see which side the issue is on.

Since you say you have new pump, I am ASSUMING that your resistance test will be ok. You HAVE to confirm that voltage is coming FROM the gauge cluster to the pump which is the step 7 listed. If there is no voltage, then you will have to work your way up from there.
 
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