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Discussion Starter #21
One thing I'll add here is that the leak at the bottom right corner of these condensers is not usually due to rocks, unless you see physical damage there. It's due to the bottom 4-5" of the condenser being what's called a subcooler and is the hottest portion of the condenser. That's why they commonly fail in that bottom right corner. Many were putting gutter guard in the bumper to stop the rocks but that is not the most common cause for that condition.
You're right here. I forgot to mention that when the shop took a look at the old condenser, it appears to have been replaced before at some point, and whoever did it did not do a very good job. Ended up being that the condenser didn't endure any physical damage, but a cap in one of the corners of the condenser ended up blowing off, causing all the refrigerant to leak out. This makes a little more sense, as I had the condenser shield installed by Honda following the lawsuit that occurred.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
:( So much for final

It was working fine until now. Then, it seems the refrigerant leaked out again, and it's blowing warm.

Will update when I know more
 
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Discussion Starter #24
Yeah. I didn't touch this AC system at all till I got it recharged last September...and I'm starting to regret that. 13 years seem to do a number on the system. Running with low refrigerant probably didn't help things either.
 

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Have they checked the service ports? Those valve cores often leak and won't show up during the leak test with the machine hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Have they checked the service ports? Those valve cores often leak and won't show up during the leak test with the machine hooked up.
Yeah, they replaced both of them previously.
 

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I just had a come back of a 2001 4Runner that I replaced the entire AC system in back at the end of May (compressor, condenser, drier, and expansion valve.) I found it very low on refrigerant and found a leak at the liquid line where it connects to the drier. I removed it and replaced the oring and put it back together. Still leaked. Upon further, and closer, inspection I found that the ring where the oring seats had some corrosion on it and wasn't allowing the oring to seal properly. I replaced the line, the oring, used a new drier again, and the system no longer leaked.

If you live somewhere where the roads are salted, those connections behind the grille can be a problem and could require replacement of the hoses/lines just due to corrosion. It doesn't take much.
 

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Don’t second guess your decision to have your AC system recharged last September. As John often advises, it should be done every 7-8 years to replenish normal refrigerant attrition and keep the compressor healthy. You know for a fact that you had low refrigerant so it needed to be recharged.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Don’t second guess your decision to have your AC system recharged last September. As John often advises, it should be done every 7-8 years to replenish normal refrigerant attrition and keep the compressor healthy. You know for a fact that you had low refrigerant so it needed to be recharged.
I'm not second guessing the recharge, I'm second guessing not touching the AC for that long.
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Update: I now know more

It appears the compressor has quit, which doesn't surprise me, if it has been running with low refrigerant for all this time. So now I need a compressor along with everything that goes with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I assume you checked the AC clutch relay the ensure it’s not as simple as that?
Yes, I checked that when I heard about the issues with it. I have the Mitsuba relay, so I don't think it's that.
 
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BTW, it’s also possible that the compressor is not running because of the low refrigerant charge due to the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
It was checked with the system charged.
 

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Yikes. Sorry to hear that. I’m sure you know to get a Denso
 

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Compressors can fail in one of two ways and are totally different and separate. First, the clutch can fail and never turn the compressor on. The second way is that it fails internally and no longer creates pressure in the system. If the latter, then you need another condenser as the metal shards will fill the condenser and there's no way to flush. If the former, then simply a new compressor will fix it.

Without knowing how it failed there's no way to explain or give any valid advice.
 

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As a side note, I just had a 2010 Pilot in my shop today that had warm/ambient temp air on the driver's side and cool air on the passenger side, along with cool air in the rear system. I found it 7 ounces low. Evacuating and recharging the system fixed it good as new.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Compressors can fail in one of two ways and are totally different and separate. First, the clutch can fail and never turn the compressor on. The second way is that it fails internally and no longer creates pressure in the system. If the latter, then you need another condenser as the metal shards will fill the condenser and there's no way to flush. If the former, then simply a new compressor will fix it.

Without knowing how it failed there's no way to explain or give any valid advice.
After speaking to the shop, it appears to be the former.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Confirmed it. The AC clutch burned up.

EDIT:

I have a theory. I have a feeling that the high pressure switch has been having issues for a while now. High pressure builds up in the AC, AC compressor never gets shut off due to the bad switch, the excess pressure causes the cap on the condenser to blow. Then, it happens again. High pressure, no shut off, clutch burns up. The shop suggested replacing the pressure switches anyway, as they suspected that may be causing issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I got the van back today and the AC is working normally again.

Fingers crossed that this is it and everything is fixed.
 
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