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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Long time guest viewer here and decided to join the community (and hope to contribute).

Anywho, long story short we are in Canada and have a US 2011 oddy with now 99k miles; which has gone through the following in 3 yrs:
- 2 steering racks, first A/M, second OEM
- 2 pairs of A/M CV axles
- sway bar end links

Probably a yr into the 3 (after the second rack and first set of cv axles), i mentioned to the service rep that this isn't normal wear and to have a red seal tech check it all over (and from reading here), i asked to check the motor mounts. About 6 months ago you can feel and hear a clunk on low bumps and when the motor switches in and out of eco (VCM).
Took it in, and said it was struts, since the boots were torn, they said it was 700CAD to replace just the boots (but the struts and springs are still the orig)...i said no, and ordered OEM complete struts assembly and changed them myself.
Clunk was was still there and seems to be getting worse as now there is also a squeak on take off, car is now out of the 'extended warranty', and i finally took it into Honda for the last time.
Tech came back saying, right and rear motor mount is warn and causing clunk, also drivers CV axle warn. I suspect the mounts were warn from the start and just put more stress on everything else, causing to be replace more and more (via paying a deductible each time).

So...here i am, done with my local Honda, and going to work on it myself, since the mounts would have been under warranty if the would have checked properly.
I am looking to order some aftermarket mounts from RA made by DEA/Marmon as well i think i'll change out the sway bar bushings with moog while in there.
I will also likely terminate the VCM with muzzler - i hated this system/driving exp since day 1.

Anyone use these brands of mounts?
Any advice on changing the mounts? vids i found are mostly for front or 3 gen ody
Anything else i should consider with this clunking/squeak? Van feels like an old beater to me (although it is almost 10yrs old)

Any info would be appreciated.

thanks!
 

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Aftermarket mounts don't last a year. Aftermarket CV axles are also junk. I wouldn't use any Moog parts either. Moog used to make decent stuff but now all their stuff is made in China and doesn't last either.

I would recommmend the VCMTunerII for disabling VCM.

Replacing mounts on the gen 4 van is much the same as the gen 3.
 

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had a clunk over small bumps from the rear on my 2012 TE, ended up being the plastic spring seats were disintegrated.
15 bux from the dealer for the pair.

I still swear by the trakmotive axles with lifetime warranty, replaced the pair in mine 6 months ago.
Like John said, eerything else besides OEM is junk.

disable the VCM, or be in store for more problems besides just motor mounts that it helped destroy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the feedback, I'll price out some OEM mounts. Quotes i got from Honda had labour in it.
Didn't know moog switched to china, used to swear by them for suspension components years ago - tierods, ball joints, etc.
 

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Yeah, the Moog stuff I've installed on some vehicles over the last couple years has all failed prematurely.
 
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Thanks for the feedback, I'll price out some OEM mounts. Quotes i got from Honda had labour in it.
Didn't know moog switched to china, used to swear by them for suspension components years ago - tierods, ball joints, etc.
moog switched to china, used to swear by them for suspension components years ago - tierods, ball joints, etc.
I used to be a believer in moog.
previous odyssey, inner and outer tie rods and link kits would last 3 years MAX.
sure they are lifetime warranty, they are playing the numbers and wasting your time and money.

I use mevotech now, as they are a direct competitor of moog.
all these companies sellout eventually to inferior quality, to increase the bottom line.

do your research and dont bother with brand loyalty, unless its backed up by data.
 

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Brands that I use, aside from genuine parts are:
Mahle
Victor/Reinz
Aisin
Denso
Wells (Autozone's Duralast electrical parts are often Wells in a Duralast box)
NTK/NGK
Continental (Belts/tensioners)
ACDelco (for GM stuff and even that quality is often questionable)
Delphi
Bosch (For German stuff)

There may be a few others I have missed that are OE manufacturers.

With some exceptions, I usually stay away from Dorman, Cardone, Moog, Spectra, Ultrapower, Gates, Dayco, Driveworks, Motorad, Stant, etc. unless I have to in order to fix a car when there's no time to be picky and it's not a labor intensive job to redo it if need be. Duralast, Carquest, and other box store brand starters, alternators, CV axles, fuel pumps, etc. have not been reliable for me.
 

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Brands that I use, aside from genuine parts are:
Mahle
Victor/Reinz
Aisin
Denso
Wells (Autozone's Duralast electrical parts are often Wells in a Duralast box)
NTK/NGK
Continental (Belts/tensioners)
ACDelco (for GM stuff and even that quality is often questionable)
Delphi
Bosch (For German stuff)

There may be a few others I have missed that are OE manufacturers.

With some exceptions, I usually stay away from Dorman, Cardone, Moog, Spectra, Ultrapower, Gates, Dayco, Driveworks, Motorad, Stant, etc. unless I have to in order to fix a car when there's no time to be picky and it's not a labor intensive job to redo it if need be. Duralast, Carquest, and other box store brand starters, alternators, CV axles, fuel pumps, etc. have not been reliable for me.
Thank You John... field experience is paramount!
Based on my own anecdotal experience, that's an extremely accurate summary.
(y)

Im sure there are other winners out there, always good to hear what they are.
 

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Brands that I use, aside from genuine parts are:
Mahle
Victor/Reinz
Aisin
Denso
Wells (Autozone's Duralast electrical parts are often Wells in a Duralast box)
NTK/NGK
Continental (Belts/tensioners)
ACDelco (for GM stuff and even that quality is often questionable)
Delphi
Bosch (For German stuff)

There may be a few others I have missed that are OE manufacturers.

With some exceptions, I usually stay away from Dorman, Cardone, Moog, Spectra, Ultrapower, Gates, Dayco, Driveworks, Motorad, Stant, etc. unless I have to in order to fix a car when there's no time to be picky and it's not a labor intensive job to redo it if need be. Duralast, Carquest, and other box store brand starters, alternators, CV axles, fuel pumps, etc. have not been reliable for me.
@John Clark will you create a sticky with this list of brands to use/avoid? This would be a great reference for those of us with less experience, and could be updated as companies sell out or otherwise start producing inferior products.
 

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Ditto on the list. I won’t even shop at the major retail parts stores anymore unless they stock Denso, NGK and a few others. I have been getting a lot of stuff from Rock Auto or the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
grr best price i found for OEM parts along is ~650$ CAD for right and rear, for 900$ honda will install with OEM.
From RA i can get both for 100 + shipping, with the risk for redoing it in a year.

With VCM disabled i would assume the AM part would last longer...but prob still junk.
I'm torn here...

Side note: @John Clark thoughts on mevotech? need to get new control arms and ball joints for the f150
edit: @Ticket just saw you use mevotech, any complaints so far?
 

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grr best price i found for OEM parts along is ~650$ CAD for right and rear, for 900$ honda will install with OEM.
From RA i can get both for 100 + shipping, with the risk for redoing it in a year.

With VCM disabled i would assume the AM part would last longer...but prob still junk.
I'm torn here...

Side note: @John Clark thoughts on mevotech? need to get new control arms and ball joints for the f150
edit: @Ticket just saw you use mevotech, any complaints so far?
no issues at all with mevotech, changed both front LCA and link kits, drivers side inner and outer tie rod on my 2012TE
put them on my 2001 Odyssey as well, after going through multiple batches of moog junk.

moog link kits would last 2-3 years max on the 2001 and would burn out driver inner outer tie rods just as quick.
originally went with moog because of the brand reputation, and the fact the tie rods and ball joints came with grease fittings.

with religious greasing at each oil change, they still only lasted 2-3 years.

their stuff today is no better than white box parts IMO.
 

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no issues at all with mevotech, changed both front LCA and link kits, drivers side inner and outer tie rod on my 2012TE
put them on my 2001 Odyssey as well, after going through multiple batches of moog junk.

moog link kits would last 2-3 years max on the 2001 and would burn out driver inner outer tie rods just as quick.
originally went with moog because of the brand reputation, and the fact the tie rods and ball joints came with grease fittings.

with religious greasing at each oil change, they still only lasted 2-3 years.

their stuff today is no better than white box parts IMO.
After changing out 2 carquest cv axles that were bad straight out of the box 6-7 years ago, I pretty much stick to OEM or highly rated brands from rockauto when buying parts. General rule of thumb on parts, if somethings significantly cheaper than everything else you most likely should stay away from it.
 

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After changing out 2 carquest cv axles that were bad straight out of the box 6-7 years ago, I pretty much stick to OEM or highly rated brands from rockauto when buying parts. General rule of thumb on parts, if somethings significantly cheaper than everything else you most likely should stay away from it.
That is the general consensus around here.
I replaced both axles in the 2012 when doing the LCA's, used trakmotive.
have used these in multiple vehicles for friends and family and only had one issue, that was quickly rectified with a return swap.
lifetime warranty too.

don't knock em till you try em, or just go premiOEM if you cant be bothered.
:D
 

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@Ticket how many miles were on your 2012 when you replaced them with Trakmotive? I don't know the actual failure rate of the CV/axle on the Ody, but I have seen numerous threads describing replacement. I'm currently at slightly under 109k miles now and am just trying to prepare myself mentally for possible upcoming repairs! Especially given that I tow frequently and probably work my axles harder than many others do.
 

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@Ticket how many miles were on your 2012 when you replaced them with Trakmotive? I don't know the actual failure rate of the CV/axle on the Ody, but I have seen numerous threads describing replacement. I'm currently at slightly under 109k miles now and am just trying to prepare myself mentally for possible upcoming repairs! Especially given that I tow frequently and probably work my axles harder than many others do.
just looked at the receipts, put them on at 92,000 miles in January 2020.
currently at 95,000 miles.
this scamdemic has reduced my daily mileage significantly.
 

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BTW, changed mine because of multiple vibration issues, only needed to change one but did the pair.
paid my friends shop to do it, since it was January and minus -5 F.
all my repairs are done in the driveway.
 

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just looked at the receipts, put them on at 92,000 miles in January 2020.
currently at 95,000 miles.
this scamdemic has reduced my daily mileage significantly.
At this point I don't have any vibrations so mine should be good for now (knock on wood). However given that I have somewhat higher mileage I will definitely keep an eye on things. I hope to avoid scrambling to do that inevitable last-minute repair right before a planned fishing trip!

Of course, my big trip likely won't happen this year now that Trudeau closed the border. Damn virus!
 

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At this point I don't have any vibrations so mine should be good for now (knock on wood). However given that I have somewhat higher mileage I will definitely keep an eye on things. I hope to avoid scrambling to do that inevitable last-minute repair right before a planned fishing trip!

Of course, my big trip likely won't happen this year, given that Trudeau closed the border. Damn virus!
Fingers crossed its by July!
 
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